nitrous wet kit on testarossa

Wouldnt use a wet kit, the furthest cylininders could run lean and then big bucks. Go direct port,more money but safer and a bigger hit.

Andy

 

or better yet, keep the Tesstarossa the way it is and buy some Little Civic and nitrous the heck out of it...

 

There is an ex-f-chatter that had a wet system on a diablo and claimed it worked well, I think he was running a 100hp shot. I'm pretty sure you would need 2 nozzles, I don't see how you could do it with 1. Of course, as stated already, port inject is the best.

I keep thinking about adding about 100hp shot it to my car. I would go with a wet system so I can spay through my intercooler....I just haven't been able to convience myself I actually need the extra hp.

 

I too have considered nitrous on my TR. If you introduce the nitrous at the rubber coupler between the fuel distributor and the intake plenum it would be dispersed "somewhat" and would probably be okay for occasional use. Somebody out there must have done this already....

 

I have been looking at Nitrous for a Ferrari platform for a little while.
The system I was thinking about was a NOS sportsman direct port fogger.
It is a wet system, and each port gets the proper amount of NOS & fuel.

 

Here is a link to the website.

http://www.holley.com/index.asp?division=Nos

 

I know this is a real naive question, but I never had the opportunity to ask it before.

Once installed, where does one get the bottle refilled? Who sells nitrous? Can you get it at Pep Boys or someplace similar? Or do you need to go tap a chemical plant in Newark NJ?

Phil

 

been there done that many times. modern EFI have dry manifold not designed to flow a wet mixture but they do flow well enough and it is safe to do if you keep the HP increase to 40% of what you have stock. If you run wet then just make sure you have a little overkill on the fuel to prevent cylinder leanout. If you are concerend you can 1) read plugs 2) pipe in EGT probes/cylinder and prove you do or do not have a lean condition. simpest sytem uses 2 fogger nozzles in the rubber tube to the throttles. This does allow some upstream mixing for a better mixture. You get bottle refilled at any speedshop or you get a D cylinder from any welding gas supplier and ask for nitrous plus. If you have a medical license you can get straight NO. You rig some fittings and suck off the big bottle to the little bottle. You do NOT need a nitrous pump to run from the big to the little bottle just a little bit of physics and chemistry...ie. room temp and a bucket of icewater.

 

Thanks for the supper trap advice. I think one day I'll try a pair. I can't answer your ? but the hot ticket is to use a hob switch to monitor fuel pressure. If your pressure dumps it grounds out the system and you get no nitrous so nothing lenas out. RE the rpm it will not rev that fast. 40% increase in HP is great but it is not like on the movie fast and furious. Its just "damn that guys TR is fast". You will notice a nice kick in the pants but at 40% you will not break anything. If you double your HP then you really got something but you also better have your Triple A towing card just in case. So you run a gaspedl or throttle controled switch, a safety hob switch and a master arming switch. Forget the bottle warmers and the NO solinoid purges. They do work but they add a few percent and cost much more than just going up one jet size in nitrous and fuel. You can also buy a small computer that acts like another switch to control at what rpm you want the NO on and when you want it off. This way you can't over rev with the NO. The old nitrous oxide systems has all the stuff you need. There are many new commers. A hot way to go is to buy a ferrari gasket that goes between the intake plenumand the throttle and make a 1/2" aluminium plate drilled to take the fogger nozzle. Then it looks really cool unlike poking the fogger throguh the rubber bellows. It doesn't work any better but looks nice. Any machine shop can do it for about 75.00/hr shop laber and 2 bucks in supplies. Can't be more than $150 bucks.

 

What kills me is that there is so much unused space inside spark plugs...a tiny tunnel in each plug by some manufacturer would allow hyper-cheap direct NO2 injection.

I bet Hill Engineering could make 'em, too.

 

Oh I don't think you want to mix spark with gas and nitrous.....

You're right that there is a little extra room. Motorcycle went to 10mm plugs years ago, but there still isn't room to adapt in a 10mm plug and a nitrous line. For EFI cars, they have a nice adapter that slips the nitous stuff under the fuel injector.

 

Yes this is also a NOS/edelbrock? product. The ? I have is if you lift the injector to get the NO spacer in there you need to find a way to trick the injector to increase the pulse width. I think these spacers are NO only. Also, if you lift your injector the OEM has designed the spray pattern or optimized the spray distance for swirl mixing with air etc... Now if you are spraying further away what happens? Are you then compromising the 99% of driving for the 1% time you will be on the NO? IMO the hot ticket is to direct port or flow a wet mixture with ample gas to prevent leanout under all conditions.

 

The holley kit says it's both fuel and nitous....but I'm don't know about the injector spray pattern. I do think a bit more is made of that than truely nessecary, but I just don't know. I do know if I add it to my car it will be a wet system mounted at the throttlebody to help coool the charge though the blower/intercooler.

 

can't you go the direct port injection route, mind you with 12 inlets that a lot of jets to buy

 

I agree that plumbing for a direct shot in each intake runner is the best way to do nitrous...but I would want the system kinda out of sight. TRs make good power but can't hang with the big dogs of today. If my TR were able to run with higher powered cars and people wanted to see the engine bay, I wouldn't want them to see the power-adder. So how could I get the best of both worlds?

How about a spray bar inside the intake manifold with nozzles aimed down each intake runner? Of course the size of the hardware should be as small as possible to minimize air flow disruption. How to anchor the spray bar in there...not sure. Maybe locate it by using the vacuum ports at each end of the manifold in some way? Epoxy it in there !?! Do some kind of retainer through the cold start injector hole? Could a spray bar be made with six discharge holes in the required locations? What diameter would it be? Perhaps the spray bar could have a small flat pad that could be tapped and then place the spray bar on the floor of the manifold and secure it with a bolt up through the bottom of the manifold?

I'm just throwing out ideas as I type here guys.....

 

Ive got 100 shot wet kit on my 348 works well (no prods)use two systems one for each side

 

Hi there....I have been following your comments re Direct Port Nitrous set up for a 512. I have a '88 512TR with CIS (not EFI) fuel injection. We are interested in retrofitting a DP NOX system into my car. My mechanic has the following q's:

1. exactly where on the iontake manifold would you suggest we machine mo9unt the NoX nozzles (specifically abiove or below the injectors)?

2. what size nozzles would we need to place IF we were wanting to place one per cylinder (x12).

3. Which Manuf wouyld you recommend (Vex or NX)?

best regards,

ajmw

 

I'm not trying to be rude but I just am. In my opinion if your mechanic needs to ask me you need another mechanic who knows an dunderstand nitrous. This is not a 5.0 mustang motor that you can just blow up and go buy a Ford crate motor. So personally, I would need to look and study the design. Be very careful because you do not want to add or modify via an intrusion into the intake manifold and mess up your air flow for normally aspirated conditions. Getting great power on the bottle is not a substitute for making the car bad everywhere else. That is one reason that doing an injector plate is such a good idea, besides being easy and cheaper and removeable if you don't like it. With CIS it uses a cold start valve which is basically a fuel injector. That means your manifold has been designed to flow a wet mixture to some degree. Therefore the easy way to accomplish your task is to add plates between the throttle and intake manifold. Good power will result and you can flow a good mizxture. You can confirm how well this works with spark plug readings or individual EGT. Typically when doing direct port injection of NO you do it upstream of the fuel injectors due to space limitations.

Jet sizing depends on many factors. A starting point is to consult a good NO supplier like NOS which I think is part of Holly now. They were one of the first but now not the flashiest since the import seen has spawned new players like NXpress etc....