No clutch today....what's the latest recommendation on clutch slave/master?

Could be as simple as mechanical linkage or master/slave cylinder or somewhere in the hydraulic lines. Lots of places to look.

How is the fluid level to start?
Alden

 

Sorry to hear that - where is the oil dripping from?
Onto your shoes or below the car's left rear side behind the wheel?

 

This means the donut seal inside the master is done. Oil passes between seal and piston and pressure want stay on slave cilinder.

Guido

 

Did the pedal mechanism brake?? Or the slave became loose? Actuator arm broke?

 

Bill

1) Do you have brake pedal firmness?
2) level of fluid
3) any sign of leaks up front or rear

the brakes and clutch work off the same master if brakes and partial fluid it could just be the slave in the rear its a $250 part and pretty easy to replace

 

Don is right. The clutch slave is the weak link in the system.

 

Isn't the pin that connects the slave to the clutch lever on the bellhousing one that corrodes in place and can be a bear to get out? I know this happens with clutch replacement, not sure if it is an issue to R&R the slave.
Alden

 

That's why we have a Corolla as back up.

 

what I would recommend doing is opening the bleeder from the slave cylinder and having someone depress the clutch pedal. if a good solid stream of fluid comes out quickly, then that could give more insight into system health. if there is little fluid, then it could provide that there is a weak seal to the master cylinder.

 

It happens, but then at one point your clutch should be solid after pumping twice if you have an original slave cylinder, the piston stops at the Seeger ring. If you have and aftermarket. Well you can weep your floor as the piston will fall out since it has no Seeger ring

Put a tube around the bleeder else the liquid goes into your motor mount and eats away the paint. Actually if you can floor it and you have no level change it can mean only a few things.

1. like mentioned before, Internal leak, which quite common on old cars.
2. The in of the peddle jumped out. Quite impossible as it is secured with a split pin.

I say you have an internal leak when you see no fluids dropping

 

What I meant was can this sticky pin make the clutch slave difficult to R&R? From what I understand, there is not a good way to get at it if it sticks.
Alden

 

if it's externally mounted, it will push a pin inwards to a throwout lever typically.
in these cases it's 2 or 3 bolts.

as for difficulty? no idea.

it appears (from another thread) that it's mounted externally to the transaxle and has a fork that actuates a lever.
pic:
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They do not have the same master cylinder. That is not possible.

They share a reservoir and that is very different.

 

This is the pin I was talking about that a lot of folks have had a tough time getting out if it has corroded.
Alden
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Yup the only thing is that it carries the tension of the lever. Release it with a screwdriver and you can pull it, press or tick it out. it should not affect the movement btw.

I haven't seen anyone having difficulties with it (yet). Only that the split pin was gone, rotten away or simply fell off by not splitting it.

 

aj.. that rubber coolant hose is not connected correctly. The clamps are not between the curves of the aloy pipes

 

I saw one clutch thread here where someone was having a hard time with it.

Then, my very experienced Ferrari mechanic had he same problem when he did my clutch.

If it corrodes in place, there is no good way to tap it out, no way to get at it, and you have to "push" it out a little at a time with whatever you can put together to do the job.

Engine in it is very difficult. Engine out is much easier because you can swing a hammer at a drift and get it out that way.
Alden

 

ahaa I didn't realise it! if it is the wrong way in, it becomes nasty when stuck, I agree! The pin should be pushed in to it from the bellhousing side so that the split pin is on the side of the water coolant tube. If it ever gets stuck you then can tap it right out. It's what I do all the time. Even just 2 weekends ago not for fun btw.. 2 studs were leaking oil of the bellhousing the oil seal of the crankshaft.

 

Make a sharp steel wedge with a cutout same dia as pin. Similar to tool used to remove inserts from lathe tailstock. Hammer wedge between head of pin andpushrod flat. Pin will come out.

 

The mc pin is harder to deal with. Easy to get out, hard to replace. You have to make a tool out of wire to hold the pin while lowering into hole

 

The way I understand it, even when installed this way there is no room to "swing" a hammer on the drift to tap it out, it hits the frame?
Alden

 

oh jeez! i thought you were referring to another pin, not the actual joint pin.

all i can recommend in this situation is if the DIY-er has time, lots of PB blaster (or similar) and NOT the good ol' wd40 in this case.
keep the chem-soaking for a day or so, keeping it wet, then using one of those small hand propane torches to heat the affected area if it didn't already become looser.

one time i had a stuck as can be clutch bowden tube on an old vw. took a few days of spraying, consistant heat, and an air impact hammer to eventually slot it off.

the car had set idle for the last 13 years prior. it's still sitting again as we have no time to finish it