No communication on RH engine ECU on 360.

Check your wiring connectors inside the passenger compartment behind the seats as well as towards front center console. The female pin sockets have a spring blade that breaks off easily. So it may appear everything is ok but the male pin is not making proper contact in the female pin socket.

You really need a full wiring diagram to find the right plugs to trace this problem. Very time consuming and tedious work. And even when you do find the bad connector(s), you can't buy just new pins. Ferrari only sells the harness. So you'll have to make a jumper wire.

BTW each car's ECU are coded to the immobolizer. If you want to switch ECUs amongst cars you also need to switch their immobolizers.

I have been told that you also should not switch left & right side ECUs. They are coded one way once they are installed. If you switch sides then they will reconfigure once, but will cause problems if you switch again. Don't know this for sure, as we always mark the ECUs so they go back to where they were before.

 

The alarm imobilizers have been trouble in 355's and 360's. Is there a way to gut these parts out and remove them? Cars are more likely to die on their owners because of these devices than get stolen by theives.

 

You can reprogram the ECUs to remove their immobolizer dependency. Ferrarifixer (Phil) recently did one pair for me. We wanted the spare pair to work on any of the team race cars.

 

To clarify...

The RH ECU communicates via the immobiliser, to tell the LH ECU all is fine and it's ok to start...(This is one of 3 reasons I know of why the cars sometimes only start on one bank initially)

If the LH ECU has 100% NEVER been used on the RH side, you can swap it into another car... but again... only the LH side, or it will be coded to that car forever now.

If you swap the left and right over within the same car, the LH will now be coded the same as the RH side... the car will still start and run perfectly, but both ECU's are now locked to your car immobiliser units, and cannot be shared any more.

The thing is... there is no way to be 100% sure that the LH ECU is a "Virgin"... even the factory may have been there already.

And yes, I do have the ability to turn off immobiliser function, but I can't see a justifiable reason to do this for road cars.

 

Phil:

Glad to see you computer is working again. So after the immobolizer function is turned off, can I remove the immobolizer circuit all together or do I still have to leave it in place?

BTW did you also turn off the immobolizer function on my other two pairs of ECUs?

 

Thanks Phil. Is the imobilizer circuit something that can be taken out of the car altogether? Is the IM coding soemthing that gets burned into the eprom on the ecu? You see I hate ALL ferrari electronics. I would rather wire in an aftermarket alarm/imobilizer that was reliable Japanese that rely on Ferrari and a AAA card with cellphone!

 

I still can't confirm the exact wiring layout of the immobiliser as I simply haven't spent any time investigating it.

I see no harm in trying to start/drive the car with the immobilisers unplugged now that your ECU's are set without them.

If it starts and drives fine... rip out the boxes and as many wires as you can that are associated!!

Yes, all 6 of your ECU's I recently handled are set with immobiliser off. But remember you have 3 different engine specs so don't swap them around unless you move the engine too!

 

None, but if you run the left one on the right side it will then be coded the same as the right one.

If you ever need to replace the alarm module you will also need to replace one of the Motronics.

 

L-L Yes, correct... But you MUST be 100% sure the ECU is a "virgin" before sharing... I think that effectively rules it out.

Immob coding swap L-R... no worries at all. ECU's are identical.

 

PM's exchanged with Rifledriver... he has the low down.

But in summary... you must enable the ECU's to be programmed... this entails grounding a certain pin while powering others and connecting yet more to a "flux capacitor" thingo...(all very cloak and dagger and way over my head really)

Then, you need a cyber geek with WAY too much keyboard time to know what to do next... but basically you need to search for a rolling random but kind of recognisable line of programming, and reset a certain part of it to be void...

I've now done several sets for race cars... but unless you can prove an alarm system failure, I still can't see a justification for road cars.

 

Just one question for you guys. My F dealer is now in the process of replacing my old alarm ecu with a new ecu "kit" from Ferrari. This is due to the failure of a 1st attempt to re-program a new set of alarm fobs with the existing unit in the car. The new kit has the alarm ecu, immobilizer interface and three new alarm fobs. There is no new Motronic engine ecu as a part of this kit, that I saw today. After reading the previous posts, will the new alarm ecu kit interface properly with the existing Motronic engine ecu? Or, will I have to shell out the bucks for a new Motronic as well? This stuff is confusing.

 

YOU WOULD ONLY HAVE TO BUY A NEW ECU IF THE ECU'S HAVE AT ONE POINT BEEN SWAPPED SIDE TO SIDE. THAT WOULD CAUSE THE ONCE LEFT HAND ECU TO NOW BE MATED WITH THE OLD ALARM.
IF IT IS A VIRGIN ECU YOU CAN SWAP IT TO THE RIGHT BANK WITH NO PROBLEMS IN YOUR NEW ALARM KIT.

 

CHECK THE DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR BEHIND THE DASH ABOVE THE OBD2 SOCKET, IF IT IS UNPLUGGED IT WILL NOT COMMUNICATE WITH THE RIGHT HAND ECU. JUST PLUG IT BACK IN AND YOU SHOULD BE GOOD...JUST HAD THIS PROBLEM LAST WEEK!

 

My 360 is 6 years old or so. I believe the existing alarm ECU was re-progammed with fobs once before a few years ago (before I had the car). This is also why I believe the re-program we tried to do with the new alarm fobs did not work. I'm assuming now that the F dealer knows that they will need to swap the ECU's from left to right and vice versa for this new alarm kit to interface properly. Out of curiousity, what would be the price of a new Motronic through Ferrari cost?

 

APPROX 2,500.00 GIVE OR TAKE