No Dinoplex?

If it's like the 365 GTC4, you can run the car without the boxes, but it isn't a good idea as the points will take all the load, which they aren't designed for.

Is it possible that there is a modern box, e.g. MSD or Pertronix, hiding somewhere? Many people replace their Dinoplexes with these systems, but they usually leave the Dinoplexes in places for appearance.

 

I replaced my dinoplexs with MSD units. Since they are in the fender well, there is no concern about looks. I did it by wiring the MSD into the existing plug that goes to the emergency switch, so the only change from stock is a wire to the coils from the MSD units plus wires to the battery since the MSD's get power direct from the battery. It's truly amazing how quick the car starts now with the MSDs and an Optima battery. I made a sheetmetal plate to mount the MSD units to the existing bolts in the fender wells.

 

US version came with factory electronic ignition two dinoplexes


ts

 

I took my dodgy dinoplex in my 246 GTS and sent it to Permatune; they use the case and connectors and install reliable, modern electronics. I have a system which nobody can tell from original if I show it, yet it starts every time.


Truth is you can put an MSD, Allison, or other type inside the box - just look on Ebay what dead units sell for. Buyers just want the case and connectors.

 

I used two MSD 6A units. One for each side of the engine.

 

Steve - If you haven't found all the items for your 365 ignition, allow me to offer an alternative.

Buy two Bosche Blue 12V ignition coils and two condensers for any old Ford V-8.

Install everything as on a standard 12V Kettering (points type) system, and LEAVE OFF the Marelli ballast resistors. Use the stock Ferrari points (buy them new) and NGK BP5ES or BP6ES plugs. Don't even bother with platinum plugs - I have never found them to be any advantage.

It is simple, reliable, very inexpensive and does not involve any hacking or cutting - everthing just bolts in. If you want to go back to the original system, you can at any time. BUT, why bother? I converted my car as such years ago and have never had a problem.

The points will last about 30,000 miles. If you want, you can paint the coils the same color as the originals - nobody will ever know but you and the guy who is haveing fits with the Dinoplex.

If you want, I can send you a schematic - it's super simple.

Bob Z.

 

The dinoplexes are approx 4" wide by 10" long and should be in the engine compartment. At least they are in my Daytona.
Ed

 

Long, double unit with a pinch in the middle...

 

Synchro!
I purchased a 1972 246 Dino GTS recently. Included in the service records was an April 2001 invoice from T. Rutlands for a "p/n 29315 Dinoplex AEC 103 Rebulit EC". Attached to the invoice were instructions for a Model FRS Perma-Tune designed to replace the stock ignition. The box looks like a Dinoplex and is marked AEC 103A. Am I to assume Perma-Tune electronics have replaced the Dinoplex electronics and this is an upgrade over the original Dinoplex? The primary coil is marked AEC 103A. My gosh, the previous owner paid $820 for this upgrade. For that it should be an improved ignition! The car does run quite well! If I could figure out how to attach a photo I would.
Bill

 

I got a replacement Dinoplex from superperformance for under $400.

Looked good, too.

Mechanic is installing it as we speak.
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Thanks guys for the feedback!

I contacted T. Rutlands today and confirmed that my Dinoplex does have new Perma-Tune electronics installed. Hopefully the ignition won't be an issue for some time.

Dave!
My Dino/Perma-Tune box looks exactly like yours pictured. My coil is a Marelli BAE 200A / AEC 103A which is the standard Dinoplex coil (according to the owners manual). Is the Bosch coil shown with your sustem an upgrade over the original Marelli coil?

 

The ignition boxes in my car don't look anything like that pic. I believe mine are spelled dynoplex also and I don't think they are available anymore. Just thought I'd throw that in since it appears the posters on this thread are talking about two different systems. The original name of this thread should have been "No Dynoplex", since Steves' car would have the same box as mine.

 

That be it. I guess I dreamed the y. Sorry for the misinformation.

 

There is also a Dinoplex AEC 104 BW which was OEM in Dino's and is a suitable, but no less expensive, substitute for an AEC 103 A.

Dave's photo is a 103 A, Steve's seems to be a 104 BW.
See http://www.permatune.com/P-Ferrari.html

See electrical diagrmasn for each as attachments to http://www.ferrariclubofamerica.com/FuseTalk/messageview.cfm?catid=5&threadid=1120

 

How do the Permatune systems compare to the ones from MSD?

 

Is your car a euro? The MSD is not compatable with a euro distributor with a three lobe cam and a two point setup. The MSD gets confused from the two different signals it is receiving from the two different points. The alternative is to install an electronic type ei. Pertronix. Even with the electronic ignition you still have to go with only one sensor and six pick ups rather than two sensors and three pick ups. With the US. distributor you can just discconnect the one point and run the car off the other one. The US distributor has a six lobe cam. The MSD will only receive one signal and this will not cunfuse the MSD. Will the perma-tune run properly with a euro two point setup?

 

My 2 cents worth...I installed MSD units in one of my daytonas, and kept a pair of AEC 104's on the shelf as a trophy. The car starts every time, and have had no trouble with it. I also installed a single MSD unit in my Boxer, and it too works great. My original dinoplex there too has been relegated to the trophy box. Ferraris were meant to be driven, I am told. They can't be driven reliably with archaic (though original) electronics.

Incidentally, my "other" daytona has orginal AEC 103 A. I starts relatively easily. But if they fail, I will go the MSD route.