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Discussion in '348/355' started by roverelf, Nov 12, 2007.

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  1. roverelf

    roverelf Rookie

    Aug 26, 2005
    46
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Full Name:
    John Ellefson
    #1 roverelf, Nov 12, 2007
    I can report my first sign of progress (I think). I went home and jumpered the 1-4 fuel pump relay, and vrooooom! It started up perfectly. Now not being an electrician, I am assuming the relay itself is bad. What that doesn't explain (at least to me) is why I didn't get the same result whn I swapped left/right fuel pum relats last week. Hmmmm.....

    So, that being known, should I just replace the relay? If so, anybody know what, if anyhting, this crosses with (Bosch #0332014140)? I tried my local NAPA, and they couldn't even find it. I don't know if it is Ferrari-specific or not.

    Lastly, here is what happened when I jumped the relay:

    1) Fired right up
    2) Listening from the engine, I heard a sound similar to a dentist's drill for about eight second, which would stop for a brief second, and then restart, following the same pattern. When it stopped for a second, the 1-4 CEL would briefly pop back on, then turn off when the "drill" started again. I am hoping that this is due to the relay being bypassed?!!??

    Lastly, my shock warning light is now on. Maybe created another weekend project?

    Thank all for the guidance up to and including this. God know how much $$$$ you guys saved me.....

    John
     
  2. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
    Vegas+Alabama
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    Mr. Sideways
    #2 No Doubt, Nov 12, 2007
    It's not a bad fuel pump relay, it's a bad signal that triggers the fuel pump relay.

    Either a crank sensor signal to an ECU is marginal, or else the signal from the ECU to the fuel pump relay is marginal. Perhaps swapping main ECU's from left to right would determine if it is an ECU malfunction or problem with signal wiring from the ECU to relay. Ditto for swapping crank sensors to determine if you have a marginal sensor.

    Nice work getting your motor fully running, though! Just keep in mind that you shouldn't leave that jumper in place with the car parked (may run the fuel pump even without the key in the ignition...not sure on that point for 355's, though), and certainly not while driving (bypasses a life-saving fuel-cutoff safety feature in the event of a wreck).
     
  3. roverelf

    roverelf Rookie

    Aug 26, 2005
    46
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Full Name:
    John Ellefson
    #3 roverelf, Nov 12, 2007
    Thanks No Doubt. I now have two more dumb questions:

    1) Where is the crank sensor located?
    2) Where are the main ECUs located?

    Regards,
    John
     
  4. No Doubt

    No Doubt Seven Time F1 World Champ

    May 21, 2005
    72,740
    Vegas+Alabama
    Full Name:
    Mr. Sideways
    #4 No Doubt, Nov 12, 2007
    1. in front of the engine, underneath, near where the engine almost touches the fuel tank
    2. in the very back of the engine bay (in the corners near the taillights) for 95 355's (driver's cockpit for other year 355's and all 348's)
     
  5. roverelf

    roverelf Rookie

    Aug 26, 2005
    46
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Full Name:
    John Ellefson
    #5 roverelf, Nov 12, 2007
    Thanks. So are the ECUs the black parts that are held in by a chrome clip? Just trying to find out which is easiet to try first. Do any pics exist of either the ECUs or the crank sensors? I want to make sure I take out the right things :)

    John
     
  6. 3forty8

    3forty8 F1 Rookie
    Owner

    Apr 25, 2006
    2,713
    San Diego
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    Eric
    #6 3forty8, Nov 21, 2007
    According to Bosch USA the part you referenced has been superceeded by part #: 0 332 014 113
     
  7. roverelf

    roverelf Rookie

    Aug 26, 2005
    46
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Full Name:
    John Ellefson
    #7 roverelf, Nov 23, 2007
    Thanks "Bubbles." I found the same thing at my local Bosch dealer, so that is correct. Time to go pull out my Trailer Park Boys Christmas DVD :)
     
  8. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 29, 2001
    18,044
    USA
    #8 f355spider, Nov 24, 2007
    The high pitched sound, appears to be your air pump cycling on/off. It should not do this (and why your CEL would trip if it malfunctioned). It should start upon cold start, then turn off after 2 or 3 minutes. I would get your fuel pump/relay issue resolved first, before tracking that down. Who knows, it may be some how related.
     

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