So my 458 has been in storage at my parents place for about 2 years. It is driven once a month and cranked about every week. It is in a location that is about 250 miles from a F car repair shop or dealer so those options are a last resort although not out of the question. Walked out to crank and nothing. Car seemed dead. It has an antigravity 60ah battery that is about 39 months old. The charger shows full and a Fluke meter shows 13.63 fresh off the charger and 13.57 after an hour. After a few days it was at 13.35. battery was disconnected to charge at all times. when the battery is connected the left and right screens light up and say 458 Spider and Ferrari. However when the key is inserted and turned on the center dash where the N and gear numbers show up do not light up and no beeps. The left and right sides of the screen also go blank at this time. The doors lock and unlock with the key remote. last key piece that was mentioned is that the last time it was driven the radio may have remained on after the key was out and door was opened but not really sure this was the case. Popped the frunk and the engine cover and closed those again as I recall there is an interlock for the starter but may be incorrect… Any ideas on this one that are easy to check? A fuse somewhere? A bad battery?
Starter died in mine recently, similar situation. Mechanic came to me to diagnose before getting towed.
Leaning towards this as well. Will do some searching for post on Jumper boxes as I do not want to fry anything. As I recall jumper cables are bad but a box may be OK.
Hard to believe battery is toast with those voltages.. The AG battery has a self preservation mode that shuts it off below a certain voltage and either with a remote controller or a button on top of battery, it can serve as its own jump box for at least one try to get engine started in an emergency. Can you read any codes? Try clearing any codes after recording them and do a master reset by leaving battery disconnected (Neg terminal) then ignition on for 5 min and see if that does anything. The fact that the screens go out indicates to me at least that there is some computer electronic glitch that is preventing the starter contactors to close. Possibly a transmission issue that indicates to ECU a problem.Do the lights work? Does the brake light work when pressing brake pedal? Might be a loose brake pedal switch. (Isn't it fun ) GL WT
fully charged the battery again and letting it sit for a few days to see what the voltage is again. It shows low then a jump box is next. hopefully, I know more this week
How about trying a battery load tester? There’s a few nice ones on Amazon for about $50. They are handy to have around and can be used on any battery. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
Time for a Bump… got a battery tester and it checked good. Got the recommended jump box and still nothing. A few more things of Interest. The head lights will not come on with or without the jumper box connected and key on. The left and right TFT displays light up then go out. The gear selector indicator does not light up. the brake lights do not illuminate with key on and brake pressed. It does not beep at you when the key is put in the ignition. The climate control small red LED does illuminate. I guess it is Time to look at fuses… any suggestions on which one? The ones on top of the battery? Are there other culprits?
Does battery "testing" mean that you "load" tested it? I ask only because normally a batter test does not include a load test which is something that cars require.
Yes purchased a load tester (digital mystery box) for Lithium batteries. Definitely not like the carbon pile testers of yester year.
I live in the yester year and what I mean is that I use replacement parts that replicate what the yester year called for. I have a 2015 SA for about 3 years now and haven't had to replace the battery yet, I do not know when the previous owner may have changed it out. I may be wrong but I think it came with the old style lead acid style battery. So when it comes time for me to replace it, maybe this year, I will replace it with a lead acid battery. I am not saying anything against the anti gravity one that you have yet I also know that batteries can do some really weird things out of the blue such as what you described. Its too bad that you have the car so far away from a dealer. I never like to throw parts a repair however replacing a 39 month old battery isn't the worst thing in the world to try. It seems that after what you've gone through enough is enough and you need a dealer. After that, keep it closer if you can.
Did the battery tester show the cold cranking amps of the AG battery? the AG battery has a massive 1800 amp CCA. As I said before, I think the battery is fine and there is something else going on that is very deceptive. A battery reset didn't work, Jumper box no joy, and most of the electrical stuff doesn't work. Have you tried to use a code reader, ie. ThinkCar diag, or Autel? Scan the car, with ignition on and copy the codes. It seems to me that there is a master relay that is remaining open somewhere in the circuitry that is not allowing the major current users to receive power. PM @Qavion, as he is the meister/guru on most things electrical on these cars. Yes, you could check the fuses on the positive terminal but they are highly unlikely to blow in normal usage of the car. If you cannot find anything then its probably dealer time to get this one sorted. Good luck. Ferrari electrical probs are a big PIA.
My money is on the battery replacement. I have had two batteries 'test' well and still need to be replaced. Something weird to check but you should since it was in storage- rodent damage. My car had a fuel sensor chewed through and a nest under the manifold like it was some field mouse camping.
As much as I’d like to help, I know next to nothing about 458’s On 430’s, we’ve seen similar issues when the battery cutout switch has been turned off. There are some circuits still alive. Also, the cutout switches are known to fail. But does the 458 even have a cutout switch? On the later 430’s, they switched to Allen key-operated switches (probably to stop people messing with them). Anyway, if the 458 has one, I would try cycling it. Then follow the appropriate relearning procedures for engine management and whatever else is required after a battery reset. I have very few useful wiring diagrams for the 458, so I can’t even point you to fuses which may have blown or to relays which may not be allowing power to get through (such as “key power” relays).
Thanks for chiming in. The 458 does not have a switch that I am aware of. In looking at the WSM the wiring diagrams are lacking. Hopefully I can troubleshoot this and turn it into a how to for others…. Do you have any diagrams that are outside of what is in the WSM?
I did find a pdf file which includes a few pages of the wiring diagrams (about 77Mb). On page 1755 the diagrams do seem to show a cutoff switch. Image Unavailable, Please Login The location is a bit vague, however: Image Unavailable, Please Login In the frunk (RHS). Here's a link: https://www.dropbox.com/t/JFVtofnjREoYI6kh (Link expires in 6 days) Note that Ferrari label their elec power diagrams "Fuel supply distribution" which can be confusing to newbies. Is there just one connection on the battery negative terminal or are there several? The diagram above shows terminal 01C going to the cutoff switch.
Here's the evolution of the cutoff switch on the F430 https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/147077415/ The 458 cutoff switch may be behind a rubber plug (and needs a "T40" wrench, rather than an allen key)
The cutoff battery "switch" in the 458 is a lever arm quick disconnect terminal that you open with the lever and lift it clear of the Neg terminal, thus disconnecting the battery out of the circuit. The positive terminal has several major fuses that are in the terminal itself sort of a plate like structure.
