Non-Ferrari source for AC compressor?

Send it to a domestic AC component rebuilder. Some hassle shipping/arranging (last time I looked into this), but shouldn't be more than a few hundred $ and a couple of days turnaround for the actual rebuilding (but might be without EM clutch assy $ included) - for ~$3K you can afford to pay for some of your time to investigate

 

go here, they do the local Ferrari club cars, www.a-aironline.com. fast and waaaaaaaaaay cheaper.

 

Go to the Sanden website and give them a call. I'll bet they can match it up for a few hundred dollars.

 

I had my Boxer's compressor rebuilt for less than $500 at www.autocool.biz...you can ship it to them or find a local auto air shop...

 

You need to know the make (probably a Sanden), type, model number and serial number. With this info. any good a/c place will be able to track down the proper part. Can probably get a look at the unit on the car, the info. is on a id tag on the unit.

 

caio
dr Jim , take the compressor to polar or super parts automotive parts warehouse ,one of the other lager companies and match it up . same thing with the dries and expansion etc. you should be able to get something in the $300 range. drier 20-30 etc.at good guy will walk you through pag oil type and amount also. i update the hi/lo cut-out switch to a R134 unit as well . i do this all the time and just make the parts up my normal margin . i'm sure you could call the pisano L.S. and get the telefone number from him . you could call P.S. also . saluti frank maderi 727-735-7092

 

Few sources for a/c stuff;



http://www.omega-usa.com/vp/products.htm

http://www.discountacparts.com/addtocart~year~1986~make~Ferrari~model~308~descript~A-C_Compressor~part~60-01013.asp

http://www.atcomail.com/customerservice/default.htm

Atco does not sell retail but their site has great cross refrences, from here you can go to acparts.com

http://www.techchoiceparts.com/

http://www.acparts.com/


Also Napa is a good source; here is their parts pro online store;

http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(x01ehu45io0fhl452l5zwret))/Welcome.aspx

328- compressor-

http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(qazprsnvgf0w1555ocdd5saj))/Detail.aspx?R=TEM278108_0120241454


NAPA EXP valve:

http://www.napaautoparts.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=TEM&PartNumber=207303&Description=A%2fC+Expansion+Valve


Just need to match YOUR comp. to theirs …..this is the 328…
NAPA sells the York 209/210 (206-style with larger displacement) compressor for the 308/328 under part #278108 (new)/#258108 (remanufactured).
not sure if yours uses the same

 

I put a Sanden in my DE Porsche 10 years ago charged with hydrocarbon refrigerant. I have been cool since.

 

The compressor can be sourced or rebuilt at many places like the guys mentione4d. The key component is the clutch on the compressor. It is a high RPM model (7700rpm redline on the 512TR right?). Many other car makes & models use the same compressor but will have a redline of 5500rpm or so.
My advice is to keep your clutch when you take the compressor in for repair or rebuild.

 

That's true the clutch even on the 308GTB is a Ferrari specific item so do NOT let them lose it..

Didn't think of the rotational speed but on mine, it's the special pulley configuration.....

 

Obviously, pulley configuration controls speed of compressor. I would not worry about the clutch. The ones I've replaced had metal to metal contact so there is no friction material to wear out such as with other clutches. If the thing turns faster, I'd have a lot more concern about the compressor than I would with the clutch. If the clutch goes bye-bye, you could always get another and change belt length to compensate if necessary. Besides, why would one redline the engine with the AC on. Seems self defeating to me.

Most clutches go bad because they short out internally. The thing is just an electromagnet that slams the rotating part into the non-rotating part and holds them together. The magnet windings have a lacquer type insulation material that degenerates with time and heat. Eventually, the insulation will wear off and wires will shunt. This shortens the effective length of the coil wire thus letting it pass more current because the resistance lowers. The result is the wire will get hotter and begin to degrade faster. Eventually, the clutch quits working altogether (open internally) or begins blowing fuses with regularity.

 

excellent thread - many thanks!!