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Normal crusing & shifting rev range

Discussion in '308/328' started by wildcat326, Apr 25, 2017.

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  1. wildcat326

    wildcat326 Formula 3

    Dec 10, 2012
    1,803
    Chicago, IL
    Full Name:
    Justin
    #1 wildcat326, Apr 25, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2017
    Deleted this post because it dealt with a very specific issue I was having in a very specific range of speed. Apologies.
     
  2. johnhunt

    johnhunt Formula Junior

    Aug 9, 2013
    343
    Washington
    Full Name:
    John Hunt
    #2 johnhunt, Apr 25, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2017
    Shift at 5000. 7000 if being sporting
    3000 if just cruising to the next robot

    It's a Ferrari. If this kills it (and it won't) but if it did then at least it died being what it was meant to be and not as a glorified minivan



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  3. wildcat326

    wildcat326 Formula 3

    Dec 10, 2012
    1,803
    Chicago, IL
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    Justin
    #3 wildcat326, Apr 25, 2017
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2017
    Basically, I had my clutch rebuilt in kevlar, and the shop that did it made clear that I should keep my shifts "under 3000" for the first few hundred miles. Doing so meant that I had to rapidly get to 3rd just to get up to speed in normal city driving, and was particularly gruesome around the sweet spot of 40-50, when I had to be in WAAAY too high a gear to stay under 3,000 for the next shift. Asked my mechanic and he said disregard the clutch guys and just cruise at 3-5k, shift at 5k. Good enough for me.
     
  4. PDB

    PDB Formula Junior

    Feb 1, 2011
    602
    Leicestershire, UK
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    Paul
    #4 PDB, Apr 26, 2017
    I would have listened to the guys who built the clutch because have the specific knowledge and experience of the clutch they built for you.
    It sounds like it needs a period of conditioning before being exposed to full load.

    Paul
     
  5. wildcat326

    wildcat326 Formula 3

    Dec 10, 2012
    1,803
    Chicago, IL
    Full Name:
    Justin
    #5 wildcat326, Apr 26, 2017
    Everything mechanical is new in the car, so - following their directives - I'm either gonna smoke the clutch disc or lug the engine, which is a more expensive fix. For the next few hundred miles, I'm just planning all-around gentle driving and hoping for the best. It's fresh off a 22-month restoration, so need to make sure everything is properly dialed in before getting too spirited, anyway. It's funny: All the old quirks and idiosyncrasies have gone away, but now there's a different set.
     
  6. FrannyB

    FrannyB Formula Junior

    May 20, 2014
    293
    Arvada, CO
    #6 FrannyB, Apr 26, 2017
    I'm just curious... They couldn't have conditioned the clutch prior to installation?

    Franny
     
  7. Aircon

    Aircon Ten Time F1 World Champ
    BANNED

    Jun 23, 2003
    100,524
    Melbourne, Australia
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    Peter
    #7 Aircon, Apr 26, 2017
    That sounds like bs to me.... I agree with your mechanic.
     
  8. PDB

    PDB Formula Junior

    Feb 1, 2011
    602
    Leicestershire, UK
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    Paul
    #8 PDB, Apr 26, 2017
    I don't think the two requirements are mutually exclusive. The engine revs will be pretty much irrelevant once the clutch is fully home, so you'll be able to take the revs up, just take it easy on the changes for a few hundred miles.
    I don't know particularly about Kevlar clutches, but like new brakes, clutches need bedding in before being put under full load.

    Paul
     
  9. johnhunt

    johnhunt Formula Junior

    Aug 9, 2013
    343
    Washington
    Full Name:
    John Hunt
    #9 johnhunt, Apr 26, 2017
    I think if you are bedding a clutch limiting yourself to 1/2 or 3/4 throttle is more useful than shifting at 3000 rpm


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  10. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

    Jun 14, 2008
    6,876
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    Mike 996
    #10 mike996, Apr 27, 2017
    Normal street driving in town with plenty of stop/go is what you need for a few hundred miles. The key is plenty of clutch usage but without heading to the dragstrip (or whatever) until there is a couple hundred miles on it. I would not worry about the RPM, the key is to NOT slip the clutch much which puts heat into it and could glaze the surface.

    I assume that the pressure plate was resurfaced when the new clutch was installed. IF it wasn't, there's a good chance the new clutch disc will never seat as well as it should/did when new.

    Admittedly, I have installed a LOT of clutches where the "break in" was the first burnout on the drag strip and, frankly those clutches held up fine for more miles that many of the Ferrari's here have on them... ;)
     
  11. godabitibi

    godabitibi F1 Veteran

    Jan 11, 2012
    6,329
    Papineauville, Quebec
    Full Name:
    Claude Laforest
    #11 godabitibi, Apr 27, 2017
    Guys be carefull giving advice you don't know. The Kevlar cluthes have been this way since they're out, I installed one many years ago and there must be a reason for that. If they're talking about RPM it must be for centrifugal force not the load. Maybe there is something to do with heat cure or pressure applied for a certain time before high centrifugal force resistance.

    I would ask the MANUFACTURER for explanation not just the counter seller or any mechanic
     
  12. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

    Jun 14, 2008
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    Mike 996
    #12 mike996, Apr 27, 2017

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