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Not another shift shaft thread ..

Discussion in '308/328' started by conan, Nov 9, 2019 at 5:43 AM.

  1. conan

    conan Formula Junior

    Nov 13, 2011
    254
    There are several threads on the subject but I guess another angle of view might help others trying to change the seals. This is not a quick fix or do it in the most time efficient way. It is part of the fun to explore.

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  2. Irishman

    Irishman F1 Rookie

    Oct 13, 2005
    3,440
    Raleigh
    Full Name:
    Kevin
    Well, that would be the view where you start scratching your head. The fun is all ahead so to speak : - ).

    On your car, maybe a leak at the drain plug? Otherwise, it looks dry and you're golden :) :).
     
  3. conan

    conan Formula Junior

    Nov 13, 2011
    254
    Yes, this is only the beginning of the work. The first problem was how to lift the car higher and secure it. I had recently purchased new axle stands with heights that my car jack could not reach, but with a block of wood as spacer it worked well to lift a few cm higher.
     
  4. conan

    conan Formula Junior

    Nov 13, 2011
    254
    Where is the dipstick then? I read that it was hard to reach but I could not see it ...

    Behind the alternator was a good guess, and I removed the bracket and cleaned it. Actually, to get the alternator bolt out, the bracket had to come off. The alternator can stay in the car.

    [​IMG]
     
  5. conan

    conan Formula Junior

    Nov 13, 2011
    254
    The dipstick assembly was easy to remove. Question is what torque to use to. I guess 30Nm might be good, as is used for some sensors in the block.

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. conan

    conan Formula Junior

    Nov 13, 2011
    254
    And here is the dipstick when fully inserted.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. thorn

    thorn Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 7, 2012
    2,102
    Tallahassee, FL
    Just replace the crush washer and torque it snugly. You don't really need a torque value on that one.
     
  8. Irishman

    Irishman F1 Rookie

    Oct 13, 2005
    3,440
    Raleigh
    Full Name:
    Kevin
    Wow, not sure how you got that photo of the dipstick assembly. Only the dipstick tube has to be removed. But no harm in removing the apparatus it sits in. If you are in the area might as well replace the copper crush washer for it, too. If you can get a torque wrench into that area please share the details as I think it would be easier to walk on water.

    If you are planning to drop the oil pan you also need to remove the oil temp sensor. It sits just above/near where the shift shaft enters the oil pan. There is a rubber cover for the wire. Pull it off and then you can disconnect the wire from the sensor. Fun thing for me was the wire decided to divorce itself from the spade connector. That's the fun with a forty year old car. Good thing I invested in high quality crimp tool some years ago : - ).
     
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  9. conan

    conan Formula Junior

    Nov 13, 2011
    254
    Thanks for the great suggestions! I have actually removed the oil pan already. The temp sensor had to come off and I noticed the tapered design and thread sealant so I guess it does not need to be torqued down much.

    Anyway, the pan had two tight areas where I am not sure exactly what is the tight spot in the upper part. The lower spot was the pickup tube which was easy to see and move the pan around.

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