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Nuts & bolts

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by stevetr, Nov 1, 2003.

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  1. stevetr

    stevetr Formula Junior

    Sep 29, 2003
    379
    Surrey, UK
    Full Name:
    Stephen
    #1 stevetr, Nov 1, 2003
    Like many, rather than go for an out and out body/interior resto I've elected to work on cleaning/restoring one part of my 90 TR at a time, with the aim of keeping the car available for driving. As I move around I intend changing corroded/dirty nuts, bolts, self-tappers etc. with new replacements. My local fixings supplier (who also supplies the tvr & noble factores I believe) offers a huge rang of stainless replacements as well as zinc plated verisons similar to the originals. Can anyone think of a good reason not to use stainless? Weight is hardly a factor and the cost differential is insignificant. The only problem I can forsee is that of dissimilar metals when used on aluminium body parts... I'm not sure? I guess there's the criticism of not being original fitments... but we're only talking nuts and bolts!

    Any views/comments appreciated.

    Steve
     
  2. carguy

    carguy F1 Rookie

    Oct 30, 2002
    3,407
    Alabama (was Mich.)
    Full Name:
    Jeff
    #2 carguy, Nov 1, 2003
    Hi Steve....I too have been replacing any corroded fasteners. I guess there is a chance of the dissimilar metals reacting, but stainless is no different than "normal" steel in this regard I believe. The one thing to remember is that for any fastener that is subject to high stresses must be like the original...no stainless as it has a lower yield point. Other than this...just go crazy on them. I replaced most all the nuts and bolts on my motor and it makes a world of difference.



     
  3. beast

    beast F1 World Champ

    May 31, 2003
    11,479
    Lewisville, TX
    Full Name:
    Rob Guess
    #3 beast, Nov 1, 2003
    Stainless is a weaker material, also it does not play well with Aluminium. If you do use stainless use it in low stress areas and coat them with loctite or pipe sealant to prevent galvinic corrosion.

    Rob Guess "The Other Rob"
     
  4. 348paul

    348paul Formula 3

    Dec 27, 2002
    1,098
    Kent - UK
    Full Name:
    Paul Hill
    #4 348paul, Nov 1, 2003
    I haven’t got my data in front of me so this is going by memory.

    Grade A4 316 Stainless (ISO 3506 class 50) - Aprrox 500 MPa

    Grade A4 316 Stainless (ISO 3506 class 70) - Aprrox 700 MPa


    Grade 8.8 bolt - 800 MPa
    Grade 10.9 bolt - 1000 MPa
    Grade 12.9 bolt - 1200 MPa
    Grade 14.9 bolt - 1400 MPa


    There is a wealth of knowledge on the net on SS fasteners - do a search if your not 100% sure!!

    Paul
     
  5. mk e

    mk e F1 World Champ

    Oct 31, 2003
    13,425
    The twilight zone
    Full Name:
    The Butcher
    #5 mk e, Nov 1, 2003
    stainless nuts on stainless bolts will gaull, you need to lube them. I've put on a lot of stainless washers and nuts and left the stud steel.
     
  6. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    7,019
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    #6 Verell, Nov 2, 2003
    Stainless bolts or studs also gall in aluminum :( . Result is usually that when the bolt/stud is removed, the AL threads come out with it.
    => ALWAYS us ANTI-SIEZE with SS Hardware :) .
     

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  7. stevetr

    stevetr Formula Junior

    Sep 29, 2003
    379
    Surrey, UK
    Full Name:
    Stephen
    #7 stevetr, Nov 2, 2003
    Thanks guys. I'll use stainless with anti sieze to replace nuts and washers around the car, but avoid it where contact is made with aluminium body parts or in high-stress applications.

    Steve
     

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