O2 and Coolant Temp Sensors | FerrariChat

O2 and Coolant Temp Sensors

Discussion in '348/355' started by blue986, Jun 1, 2008.

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  1. blue986

    blue986 Karting

    Oct 12, 2007
    177
    Maryland
    Full Name:
    Matt
    I have managed to eliminate all but 2 of the ECU codes I've been wrestling with for the past couple of weeks. I'm still getting the O2/MAF code on the 5-8 bank and since I've addressed everything else, I need to remove the O2 sensors and switch to see if I get the code on the 1-4 bank. Looking for any additional advice/tips/tricks to get the left O2 sensor out - I've had PB Blaster on it for 2 days and have tried removing using a straight O2 socket from above (difficult to get any leverage) as well as using an offset socket from below but no luck.

    Also, still have code 1112 on 1-4 Bank. I've done numerous searches on "engine coolant temp sensor", but I am still unsure where I should be looking to address this so any insight is appreciated.

    Thanks
    -Matt
     
  2. Marco Bussadori

    Marco Bussadori Formula Junior

    Aug 6, 2007
    430
    London
    Full Name:
    Marco Bussadori
    Matt,

    Get the Cat off, cut off the top of the O2 (above the nut part), use a proper socket wrench to remove the remains and replace it... You need to change it anyway. Change them in pairs, using quality BOSCH ones.

    As to the temperature sensor, look at http://www.club348.com/technical/Tech/348.html#EngineUnderhood - you'll also find a bunch of additional goodies on it...

    Marco
     
  3. Dean355

    Dean355 Formula 3

    Sep 4, 2006
    1,101
    South Florida
    Full Name:
    Dean
    Before doing any of that, have you cleaned the connectors under the air filter box? If not, clean the connectors and treat them with stabilant 22, clear the codes then try it.
     
  4. blue986

    blue986 Karting

    Oct 12, 2007
    177
    Maryland
    Full Name:
    Matt
    Check.

    I have removed, cleaned, applied Stabilant 22a and re-installed/re-connected every electrical component in the car including all of the fuses and relays in both fuse panels. Car is almost where I want it to be, but I still have to resolve these last 2 issues.

    Still need some guidance on the coolant temp sensor. I have referred to the primer (many times) and even after pouring over it, I am still unsure where I should be looking.

    Thanks again for all the help.

    -Matt
     
  5. Dean355

    Dean355 Formula 3

    Sep 4, 2006
    1,101
    South Florida
    Full Name:
    Dean
    At this point, maybe the next step should be to replace the 5/8 O2 sensor (as you are doing), and probably replace the coolant temp sensors.

    Any of the experts here would like to comment?
     
  6. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    29,260
    socal
    CTS is under plenum. Easiest to take it off and get to the sensor then you can change the coolant hoses there too if that has not been done in years. You can get to both CTS's wo taking the plenum off if you have small hands and are a contortionist.

    Hit the cat O2 bung with a torch and then put a wrench on the 02 and nail it with a hammer or use leverage with a pry bar but hit it quick and sudden. Works 100% of the time. If you take the cat off then you will need to replace the old corroded exhaust gaskets and run to 5 muffler shops before someone has the right size.
     
  7. blue986

    blue986 Karting

    Oct 12, 2007
    177
    Maryland
    Full Name:
    Matt
    As suggested, I had already hits the CTS's under the intake plenum, but in a last ditch attempt I did them both again and also removed right rear wheel and fender liner to pull and clean the connection for the switch on the radiator. While doing that I kept thinking about the MAF code and what else could be causing my issue other than what I thought was my O2 sensor problem. I guess what should have been obvious hit my like a revelation - MAF resistance. Sure enough, put a meter on both MAFs and they were WAYYYYYYY out. 389 on the 5-8 bank and 387 on the 1-4. I have no idea how they would get that far out, but I adjusted them back to spec, put the car back together, did the ECU reset and took the car out for about 45 minutes. No CEL's and the car ran perfectly.

    It took forever, but I'm thankful I was "forced" to get to know the car other than driving it.
     
  8. Dean355

    Dean355 Formula 3

    Sep 4, 2006
    1,101
    South Florida
    Full Name:
    Dean
    WOW Matt! That's way beyond my league. If you have a minute to explain what the MAF resitance is (resistance to what), what the numbers mean, what meter did you use and how you adjust them back to spec? As you can tell from my questions, I have no clue how you fixed that. So let me know if you have a minute.

    Thanks,
    Dean
     
  9. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
    Full Name:
    Tom
    I'm interested in this as well since I have O2 sensor faults. Although I have a 97 F355. I am seeing code P1692. 1 = manufacturer specific, 6 = Computer Output Circuits 92=?????. The reader also shows P1115 ECT Sensor Intermittent High Voltage, P0137 O2 Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2, P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input, P1119 1 = manufacturer specific 1 = Fuel and Air Metering 19 = ?????, P0134 O2 Circuit No Activity Bank 1 Sensor 1.

    Tom
     
  10. FandLcars

    FandLcars F1 Rookie

    Aug 6, 2006
    3,057
    Tempe, Az
    Full Name:
    Rick Schumm
    Dean- There's a basic explanation at No Doubt's Club348 Website here:

    http://www.club348.com/technical/Tech/348.html#AFMixture

    You can also search here and one or more threads show pics of the procedure for adjusting the MAFs with a Volt/Ohm Meter. Good Luck! :)
     

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