OK, so my '97 355 had codes for all 4 sensors (downstream had heater and no response, while the upstream the heaters were OK) I installed new upstream sensors and now the codes still come up, oddly the car actually runs better, the scanner shows very little activity though. The exhaust smells cleaner and the idle and reving is definitely smoother. Anyone encounter this issue?
Just an FYI, I am using Standard Automotive part # SG168 in my F355 and it works great. I got mine for $18 each. I only replaced the left side since the right was fine. Plays nice with the OEM.
I am sure that the position is correct, however, I am not so sure that the plugs are correct - I cannot be sure it was correct in the first place. Anyone know the wire colors?
Hey Eric, really appreciate you help on this one - I will list them tomorrow when I get to the shop ( I wrote them down) I just had the car idling for about 20min and now have a 1445 as well which resulted in a blinking slow down light... Tons of fun.
I would be glad if I can help. Be carreful with the O2 sensors you install on a 5.2. They MUST NOT be internally grounded otherwise they will prevent all the 4 sensors to work properly. 2.7 sensors will not work on a 5.2, and most of the time such a distinction is not clearly listed by the vendors. I don't know if it is the case or not for the NTK sensors, but it is worth to be checked first.
I am thinking by internally gounded you mean a 3 wire sensor? I just now see that the NTK sensors are listed as the same part# for 95-99!!!! HOW can this be! - so these are the wrong parts? Has anyone esle used the NTK sensors?
Some 4 wires sensors are also internally grounded. Those ones will not work on a 5.2. 95-99 cars don't use the same sensors. 2.7 and 5.2 require different fpre-cat sensors. I don't know about the NTK, but they could be a problem. If you have a scanner able to display live data, have a look to the non-NTK sensors while you plug and unplug the NTK sensors. If their signal goes to 0 when the NTK are pluged, they are probably internaly grounded and are not suited to your car.
OK, I see that the OEM part#s are different for 5.2 and 2.7 cars - while most parts look-ups for NTK (and some Bosch) list the same sensor for 2.7 and 5.2. Eric, if what you say is true and I think it is (regarding the wrong sensors preventing all of the sensors from working) then this must be my problem. So I have determined that the next course of action will be to obtain and install the universal replacements listed in the parts interchange, Bosch part#'s Upstream - 15730 ( I want to note Downstream - 15738 The up side of this is that I can directly obtain these locally and I can even return them if they do not work. We shall see.
OK, the fun has come to an end so-to-speak. I had codes 1115, 1117,1119,1121,0134,0154,0160,0140 and the occasional visit from our friend 1448. I figured all 4 O2 sensors were gone, the scanner showed little activity on all sensors so it sure looked like it. So I decided to change the upstream sensors (at least the car would run right) I bought the NTK 25547 that both NTK's site and Ferrparts listed as correct. BIG mistake. As soon as the sensors were installed the scaner went from little activity to 0v on all 4 sensors - I was baffled. Then I got the news from Eric that the 5.2 355 needs a different O2 sensor than the 2.7 - I looked up the part#'s and sure enough the NTK site lists the same sensor for 2.7 and 5.2 cars... Today I got the Bosch 15730 universals that are listed in the parts interchange here and crimped on my original plugs, fired the car up and scanned it - NO DICE... while the sensors were no longer at 0v, they just sat at .43v Then I started to watch the sensors activity on the scanner - they started at .43v - then as the car ran a while it started to slowy move - I held the revs at 3K for a bit and they moved more - I realized that the heaters seemed dead. Then I remembered that Eric told me there is a fuse for the O2 sensor heater circuit (labelled Lambda) it is fuse #22 in the pass. floor - sure enough it was blown. I replaced the fuse, cleared the codes and within less than a minute, everything was working perfectly - the downstream sensors were not even bad. One problem on this car is solved.
Well since you asked, in no particular order: - I still have to deal with the exhaust valve - a P.O. had wired it open and I would prefer it operate. - Adjust (or replace as needed) the E-brake - There is the heater, the pump is leaking so it is bypassed for now. - The dome light does not work. - Paint needs some touch-ups - I want to add headers before "it" happens - Door windows rattle when down - Suspension actuators will be rebuilt by Capt. Z - Want to refinish the valve covers (heads were just done) and detail eng. bay - Need to clean up previous stereo wiring - Rewrap certain small interior leather parts (the dash and doors are good) - Want to swap pass. airbag for glovebox - Possibly add a pass. side foot rest - That surely will not be the end of it...
There is a thread on how to fix the door window rattles. Basically there is a spot weld that fails on the attachment point of the regulator, and someone showed a neat way to fix it, that avoided having to spend $1100 on new window regulators. The guy who posted name was "Merdav" Found it: http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59677&highlight=rattle
I had a rattle too. But since I had to replace the driver door lock (some of the rear metal casing broke), I went all the way - Popped off the door panel, took out the window mechanism (wasn't that hard), had a local mechanic MIG weld the break. Good as new. No door panel & glass made replacing the door lock very easy. BTW: I wasted like an hour trying to figure out how the door lock would work with the tilted ball joint & the white plastic connector. Who would have known the white connector actually swivels in the middle??? Jeez. what a wierd design.
