Finally getting around to finding a shop to replace the OEM refrigerant. If anybody has some experience on this please chime in. What is the correct ‘new’ refrigerant? Presumably the old refrigerant is R12?? Any experience with leakage after the switch? Smaller molecules weeping thru the OEM hoses??? Presumable a purge is required? New oil? New filter? New dryer? Any input would be appreciated. This EPA ac stuff is a PIA. If it were not for the gas tank heat exchanger, I wouldn’t even bother.
OK maybe I see, When you say “gas tank heat exchanger” are you talking about some AC system component that failed, like the evaporator or condenser that leaked out all the refrigerant? If not, if the system is cooling well with no obvious problem, there is no reason to change refrigerant. It does not wear out and is not a maintenance item. IAE, for me the correct refrigerant is whatever was in there that leaked out. Purge? (You mean flush?) depends on whether the system was contaminated. Oil? Depends on whether the existing oil was lost. There is a correct amount of oil, in the few ounce range, that it needs. New dryer? Yes, usually. They are cheap. Filter? what filter are you referring to? Regardless, a good AC shop will do the right things. The trick is finding one. And they may strongly suggest or insist you upgrade the system from R12 to R134. This can be expensive and reduces cooling capacity significantly. Since I have the ability to acquire R12 at reasonable cost I stick with it when dealing with an R12 system. But the professionals will probably want you to switch because R12 is expensive and difficult for them to work while following the rules, and they have fo folllow the rules.
As I understand it…. To legally buy R12, one must be an EPA certified shop. Did a major last year and the system was drained. The gasoline tank’s heat exchanger is fine…. Just mentioned it because it ‘seems’ the fuel is getting too hot. Tank pressure seems too high and I can hear it purging out the charcoal canisters . If anybody could PM me a source for R12 it would be much appreciated. I am not EPA certified and the sources I’ve seen require proof of certification. Purge as in ‘remove all the old stuff’. Flush may have been a better choice of word. Filter, oil etc…. Hell, I don’t know. Never in my life messed with ac before. I really don’t want to drag the car into calif for ac replacement (over the sierra). There isn’t anybody near me that I know are trustworthy. I’ve had really bad experiences with car repair shops. Owned one for a short time…. learned that they are nearly all crooks. They charge book time, but cut every corner possible to use far less time. Or like this one…. customer comes in with a failed tranny under warranty. My tech tells me that the prior owner of the shop sourced it in a junk yard and sold it as ‘rebuilt’. Even my tr…. The first major (upon purchase) was a disaster…. dented side panel…. Timing off…. Burned up cat…. a real disaster from a ‘pro’ who specialized in Ferrari and lambo. Yes…. I have great distain for the industry and am fearful of any unknown shop. All that said- I have great respect and appreciation for Ben Salerno in CA. Maybe I’ll bite the bullet and drag it over the pass.
You can certify yourself to buy R12. It involves doing a little reading and taking a short quiz. Do a web search. Not all shops are crooks. Not even most.
Here is an example https://www.ebay.com/itm/R12-FREON-12OZ-CANS-CHARGETTE-NEW-OLD-STOCK-LOT-OF-3-MADE-IN-USA-/294233426578?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Alan…. I truly hope you are correct. Perhaps my experience was unusual. I like your idea of getting certified - I’ll look into it.
Vincenzo I purchased the r-12 from ebay and had my 512tr charged up .. more expensive but very easy I did not want to convert .. the a/c blows nice and cold Dominick
Thanks Dominick, I need to do a lot more research and search ebay! If possible, R12 is preferred. R12 is a real PIA in many ways! Just like Halon…. All the good stuff is bad. Like most everything else these days - all that is good is bad. Thanks for all the input!
I gave you a link above for something that is currently in sale Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Sorry i should have PM u instead There are others that have NOS cans ..there is also one company that packages them in a new can as well and have a special adapter .. just use the search on eBay In terms of filling an empty system ..i believe the TR is About 46 oz .. so you need 4 cans Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Found a replacement dryer. Anybody see a problem with using this dryer? I am told that the OEM switch/wiring should directly screw into the new dryer. My OEM dryer is also shown. Is the conversion as simple as: 1) pull a vacuum on the system to remove the old R12 and old R12 oil 2) confirm no leakage while under vacuum 3) refill with R134 oil and R134 gas Am I missing any significant steps? Is it that simple? I found a local ‘mobile’ repair tech and scheduled him to come out to the house. Fingers crossed! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
VIncenzo I think the step you are missing is to replace o-rings as well Also I heard ( not sure 100%) .. but you should drain compressor by tipping it and let oil come out to get oil out - not sure if vacuum will get it out - but i will refer to others
Thanks Dominick, Dang…. Wish I knew that when the engine was out! Are the O-rings simple buna-n or fancy viton or ???
I think you need EPDM o-rings Iam sorry to keep going back - but why not just vacuum and refill with r-12 I think you will be happier in the end and if you didn't have any leaks before you will not have to bother till the next major - 5 years etc
I think some use the green ones - Viton You will need adapters for high and low side You probably get away with a vaccum and a flush ( debatable on flush) Dryer/accumulator should be 134a type Again - never did it but researched it ... so please let others chime in I think most seasoned professionals would try to keep r12 as long as possible - you will lose pressure with r134a due to older type hoses
Thanks guys. I am leaning towards staying with R12. Your arguments seem right on point. Evacuating all the old oil seems to be a problematic issue.
