15689 went in for it's annual service with Dennison International located in Puyallup WA. This time I had the oil and filters replaced along with the coolant and brakes flushed. Other items included replacing the hard and 50 year old wind window seals and engineering a permanent fix to a troubling fuel rail that has had a history of leaks over the years. The solution was to machine a new fitting with 3 extra threads that screws deeper into the carb tops and then epoxy them in place - never to leak again. The cam covers will be pulled and the clearances checked and adjusted as needed followed by weber tuning on the dyno. Ciao, FGM Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
For those who insist on a complete warm up of the automobile 50w is the way to go. If one tends to jump in and go, 20-50 is the best choice. I for one always allow a complete warm up of the engine and the transaxle. It is amazing how different the car feels after - not only being warmed up - but after 50 to 60 miles. The suspension and steering feel much better, like a new car. I'm sure others have noticed this. Ciao, FGM
None, just making the point regarding warm up not only applies to the engine oil but IMHO to everything else.. FGM
??? “technical section” of what, where… ? While this site has a generic “Technical” section, I’m not aware of any dedicated specifically for Daytonas or any other vintage models. Some, although very limited and not all necessarily accurate, technical data/information can be found in your owners & service manuals.
Yes, good question. I know it is very easy to push around. The next time I am near a weight station I will check the weight and post it. Ciao, FGM
I am trying to establish what the water temp in centigrade, and oil temp in Fahrenheit, should be running down the highway on a 80 degree day. Ciao, FGM
Your gauges don’t work accurately ? OTOH, if they do, there are many variables that may effect the results and your mechanic should be able to explain them.
On July 16th we loaded up the Daytona and drove the 254 miles to Skamania Lodge on the Columbia River to participate in the SCM 1000. Over the next 7 days we put 1,754 miles on the clock. The ran flawlessly and used no Oil. 15689 is now totally sorted out and ready to go anywhere. The temp ran at a constant 76 degrees centigrade coming up to 82 on the hottest hill. The oil temp stayed on 140F and sometimes up a little. On balance, I am very please with the performance and reliability. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Since no one gave a concrete answer to your query, I thought I would give at least one other data point. Took my car out for an extended run today; about 80F ambient Pic below shows easy cruising in top gear; but a long enough run that the oil temp had a chance to really "top out". Image Unavailable, Please Login My car is a Euro, so everything is in C, and the coolant and oil temp are similar; which sort of seems plausible, given how the oil-cooling system is constructed. Just as a note,140F is 60C, so your picture seems to show the oil running a lot cooler than the coolant. My dials only look like that after about 5-miles of driving; at that point, coolant will be "on the rise", but oil will still look "cold". By 10-miles, the oil will be noticeably "off the peg", and will keep rising until it looks similar to the coolant temp. Of course, I'm still in the process of sorting-out my Daytona, so I make no claims about it being "typical". That said, however, I think it is generally not expected for any instrument to be at "bottomed-out" under normal operating conditions.