OH NO, CAN'T GET THE FILLER PLUG OUT!!

Just the usual.....big breaker bar, penetrating oil, a little heat etc etc etc...is it the transfer case filler or the trans filler plug?

 

They are always tight and hard to remove....not sure why....I am careful not to over tighten, but each time I removed it on my 328 it was a difficult. I started applying a little anti-seize paste on the threads.

 

If you don't get the results with a breaker bar or if you start seeing the hex fitting start to get deformed, there is another approach.

I had a similar problem and used a punch and hammer to loosen it. Since it loosens in the counter clockwise direction I positioned a punch on the rim of the plug and gave it a shot with the hammer - it moved on the second shot and was loose enough to come out with the proper tool at that point.

 

Hope this helps:
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Yes, it is "normal" / unscrew "counter clock wise" plug.

1) I would go multiple rounds with PB Blaster or other penetrating oil, along with the breaker bar / cheater pipe ideas. The head on that plug allows for a good deep fit that shouldn't round unless it has been molested in the past. You should be able to go to town on it with a cheater pipe.

2) The transfer case filler plug is on the top of the case. You have to remove the left rear wheel well to get at it. On mine, it had been really chewed up. I was lucky to find an SAE 6-point 7/8" or something that managed to fit in spite of the damage. By the way, if you are looking for this guy you did drain the transfer case, too, right?

Seamus

P.S. Check this out, it's pretty cool: http://www.camerafilters.com/ec/gearbox.htm

 

I just changed my gearbox fluid the other evening. If you reach your hand down to the top of the transfer case cover, you can reach and remove the filler plug without removing the rear wheel well. It's a tight squeeze and the plug might be stuck, but it can be done.

When you go to refill, only refill through the drop-down gear filler hole.

I'll do anything to not have to remove the fibreglass wheel wells.

 

Had the same event in my Dino; drained the transaxle oil and then found the transaxle filler plug frozen.

Local FCA Club Tech, Carlo Durante, had the immediate solution; fill it from the gearbox filler plug on top of the gearbox (Dino uses 9 pints). This will allow you to drive immediately, but the suggestions above on removing the plug will help with a final remedy.

 

Just did this on my mondial T..nut was killer tight for a fill plug..

anyway I got a impact 19mm hex head socket 1/2 in drive...then got a three foot 1/2 drive extension in orfer to reach above the car bodywork...then attahced a hefty 1/2 breaker bar...and here is the important part...I slipped a very long like 5 foot long iron pipe over the handle of teh breaker bar and with my left hand I held the extension in teh upright position and simply leaned my body onto the length of pipe...nut came out smooth and easy like butter...LEVERAGE! hmmm... now I wish I retightened it with anti-seize...I really didn't bear down on it when retightening...

Another thing...trans oil...there is a crazy flaming thread i teh archives on this but let me tell you simply VERELL IS RIGHT! Reedline 75-90NS I called Dave the tech at redline and had a long conversation...you need the NS (no slip- seems the synchros need some friction to bite) for the gearbox....I put in the redline and it shift like a different car...unreal smooth no hangups in 2nd anymore.

wait 'till you get to the dipstick...ugh!

 

who sells the Redline oil ?????


thanks , i need to do my GTB. i have SWEPCO 201 in my 84 911. not sure i like it.

 

www.summitracing.com

 

You beat me to it. I stopped by the Summit Racing store just south of Atlanta two weekends ago. Picked up a good supply!

 

Dont forget you can fill both the transfer case and GB from the transfer cas fill plug, as it overflows to the GB. Any other way is just way too much trouble. I just switched to the Swepco as 3 ferrari mecahnics say that is all they have used for years. I was using AGIP 75-90 Rotra LSX and was not happy with that at all. I like the fact that the Swepco in non synth as the AGIP was full synth.

 

thank you

 

i know, there seems to be a ongoing debate on Pelican and Rennlist with the 911 folks on redline versus swepco. in my other 308s, i used Lucas with 2 tubes of GM limited slip additive. this witches brew go rid of almost all the 2nd gear issues my 78 gts had. the other 2 308s had no syncro issues. neither does my current gtb. i used store brand gear oil and 2 little tubes of gm rear end stuff in them as well.

my 84 911 has the 915 trans and its " notchy " in second, but it doesnt grind in 2nd with the swepco. i just seem to read more folks that are happy with the redline......

i have a gallon of swepco 201 left in my inventory.... i think i will try the redline and see how i lke it.


i always warmed my cars up a bit on a short drive and the fill /drain plugs seemed to be easier to break loose. i ALWAYS brake the FILL plugs loose first...... learned that lesson a long time ago!

 

NOW WATCH OUT...that open hole is huge w/o the plug in there and is in the horizontal plane where is something falls in your are doomed! the hole is like an inspection port w/o the plug so keep it covered up and don't tighten it so much...now the fun part..off to the "dipstick" that can be one pia too!