Like Robert and his wheels, I'm feeling sorry about the state of the world as well! My left bank inlet cam had worn lobes due to previous owner's mechanic using re-ground shims. I send it to a well-known cam shop in VIC, who advise that they can't get their weld to stick to it. So I order a new cam from Maranello UK. Get the old cam back today, NO SIGN of any attempt to weld it, but one bearing journal damaged where someone had put the cam in a vice. Take new cam out of box, genuine Ferrari part, but the timing mark is in a completely different location, so now I'm in dial-guage and vernier wheel land to re-time the cam - not a simple task! I can't even find a moral in this, apart from "if its not broke, don't fix it". Photo of old cam below, not sure if it will reproduce well enough to show wear on no. 6 lobe. And don't get me started on how long it tool to get all of the *#!+ RTV gasket sealer off! Image Unavailable, Please Login
uh oh...i'm having some camshafts sent off to a shop in victoria too. were you dissatisfied with them? if so, why and who were they?
I'll PM you, don't want to get them offside while I'm still asking them nicely to "please explain". My experience is that many people claim Ferrari experience without actually having it, or maybe the guy who knew what to do quit years ago.
I think few years ago their was a death or a split in family and they went their own ways as I said i think.Shame as their cams were held in high regard.
well if you put a piece of wood on either side it should be OK but that doesn't sound like what happened
Thats right JM. You learn that in your 1st year of your Apprenticeship. You have to be a pea brain to do so otherwise, especially with engine internals......
In case anyone is interested... Valve timing instructions for 365GTB (leaving out the boring details) 1. fabricate heavy steel plate to mount on exhaust side cam cover studs as fixed platform for dial guage stand (magnetic base) 2. measure depression of fourth inlet valve (only one opening as cam turns to timing mark) with original cam installed. 0.286" on my engine 3. replace old cam with new cam, turn with vice-grips until 4th valve at identical depression. Make timing mark. 4. do it all again to make sure. 5. wring hands, pray, pray again, start engine. I'll reach step 5 on Saturday, I hope!
To complete the story, after a 3rd cross check and having got enough road grime off the flywheel to find the TDC mark (it says PM 1/6 for "post motori cylinder 1 and 6" I think) reassembled motor and fired her up. crank,crank,crank,spit, cough. Oh uh, this isn't good. But I persisted and it caught and ran super smooth. In fact, the bloody thing feels like a Honda now, it no longer rocks slightly at idle and it revs very sweetly indeed. This either means that I've got it timed perfectly or its slightly retarded. Or, the previous cam had a more aggressive grind. Subjectively, it feels slightly down on power which would support this theory. But I'm leaving it alone now until after the FCA run to Bowral this weekend, when I can stretch it in the upper gears. I used Gore-tex expanded PFTF gasket tape rather than conventional gaskets on the cam covers. Incredible stuff, no gasket goo required, no more stuck down covers next time they come off and NO LEAKS! $162 for a 7m roll, less than the cost of paper gaskets that are guaranteed to leak!
The specs on the roll say it is but I'm only using it on a low pressure area, cam covers and end caps, which of course are the no. 1 oil leak spot! btw I got the tip from Bill Badurski, who is the technical advisor for the US Daytona forum and has huge experience with these engines.
Thanks Bob, I've noted that name. I've sinced learnt how unusual the steel in Daytona cams is and how many bad experiences people have had regrinding them. So I'm glad I ended up with a new cam. 500 pounds from Maranello UK, 3 days delivered to my door. Great service! The new cam's timing mark was out by about 6 degrees, enough make valves hit pistons. Thats why the invoice said CHECK TIMING MARKS !
