Oil Change???????????

I have an annual fluid change/inspection done on mine. Engine oil, gear oil, coolant flush, brake fluid, etc. I think the bill last time was $300.

At the time, he found a loose steering rack boot while the car was up. He did a brief road test to check that everything was functioning properly. No other issues at the time.

My recommendation, because these cars are old, and because it's important to have a good look underneath, is to do the fluid service every year.

 

You could just change the oil and filter once per year but it wouldn't be properly maintaining the car IMO. Regardless of the age it is a high performance machine and you should change all fluids and have the car inspected each year. Not only is it best for the car mechanials but save the receipts, being able to demonstrate that proper maintenance was done regularly on the car should help the resale value.

 

Every two years for coolant, brake fluid and transaxle is fine. Oil and filter at least yearly, depending on miles. There are write ups here for all the fluid procedures...use the search function, and you will find them. Nothing special to changing the oil, other than getting the proper copper washers, metric allen wrench for the drain plug and oil filter (Baldwin or UFI).

 

I change oil a lot based on time and type of usage. I use that premium non synth in my other hondas or ranch equip.I use redline in the trans and change that every year. 28yrs ago this great old guy had a 365GTB4 and would tell me,Why Regis would you have the GTC when the Daytona is such a better car? He changed oil and feul filter every time he drove it, course he always hit 7700 in 4th, and liked to cruise it @6500 in5th. Anybody in Austin Tx know to whom do I refer?

 

jjay,

Check EUGENIO'S web site for a complete reveal of his services and their prices.

The wonderful thing is, he won't let you drive away knowing you'll need to return in three weeks, and at extra cost, for something easily addressed currently.

Cheers, Hank

 

Hey, my oil change is due on my 360 and since I see these videos of oil pouring like crazy and making a mess, and since I have an oil extractor (not the crappy electric ones, the ones that are steel containers in which you create a depression via an air compressor), I was wondering if anyone had ever removed some/most of the oil using a suction system, and then finished the job the normal way. Will doing that massively reduce the oil flow coming from the dry sump reservoir? (since I assume vacuuming the oil won't allow to get the oil out of the oil pan)

 

I was still married last time this thread was active

 

LOL, I am a newbie so cannot post new threads so I am high jacking whichever thread is more or less related to the topic I want to discuss ;o)

 

Just get a large drain pan and arrange it to be close to the drain plug. This will minimize any splashing/mess. I use a cheap harbor freight moving dolly under the drain pan, with various wood blocks to get the spacing I want, depending on car.

 

Harbor Freight sells a seriously good vacuum oil extractor for the money.

 

New members can't post?

 

MAKE SURE you drain the oil from the engine oil drain, and not the transmission oil drain!! Both are on the same "pan." under the engine. I suspect that many people have done that at least once though they may prefer not to admit it.

Yes, I have done exactly that!

 

OK not convinced by this but now go look at the 360 section - there's a load of how-to guides indexed at the top - most of what you need is likely there

 

Disregard my post 14; I mistakenly thought we were discussing the 328 based on the old thread. But I see it's re a new fangled Ferrari that I know nothing about.

 

You should be fine with using both methods. I friend tried to see if the extractor alone would work on his 458 and invited a bunch of us over to watch. He only got about 6 quarts out...and he stuck the intake suction line down everywhere...just too many nooks and crannies to get the oil from. Ferrari engines aren't like a normal one where all the oil collects in one sump. Once he removed all the drain plugs the rest eventually came out. He posted a thread with pictures here....search his name "aeroengineman".

 

Most dry sump engines have no access to get oil out of the oil pan. You can suck most from the tank but not from the pan. Not only does a scavenge pump not remove all the oil from the pan, as soon as the engine is shut off oil from the tank begins flowing pack to the pan.

My only response to those too lazy to get under the car and pull plugs is
A. Take it to someone who will do it correctly
B Give me the VIN so I can help clients avoid ever buying the car.

 

Noted.

I have never used a vacuum device but was considering getting one.

I'll stick with the usual way.

 

Or you can just turn the car upside down to get all the oil drain.

 

The voice of experience? Kidding.


Sent from my iPad using FerrariChat

 

Actually the point of using a vacuum is NOT to avoid draining the oil the usual way, but rather suck up as much as possible, and once done then go the normal route, but hoping that the 6-7l removed from the sump will reduce the mess I can see on the web with oil from the sump pouring very heavily and making a mess.