first lof for my mondial...what oil filter is best?
Both are great filters. I use the Baldwin B253 for when I'm an not showing the car because it is less expensive. UFI goes on when I get the car judged at the FCA Nationals. I only use Fram for my suburban and only because it is what I can get easily where I live. Other than that, stay away from Fram, I have seen too many reported failures on FChat.
I was coached to have 1 of the two that were recommended by Ferrari for the 328 at the time and they were the UFI and Fram. May be I got bad info. But I stand on my recommendation for Baldwin and UFI.
My car achieved a Ferrari Classiche certification with a fram filter installed. However, I'm currently running a UFI that I got from Ricambi. Sid
When I got my car in Jan. of this year it had a K&N Air Filter and Oil Filter, when I did my belt service, etc. I put a K&N oil filter back on.
Fram changed their internals on their 308-compatible filter years ago, and it no longer has the essential internal stand-pipe. With that change, and quality/material issues, Fram filters should be avoided. The ONLY filters on the market now with the internal stand pipe that matches the original Ferrari specification are the UFI and Baldwin B253 - otherwise excellent oil filters, like perhaps the K&N, Wix, etc., are missing that piece. The difference with the stand pipe is that the oil filter retains oil inside when the engine isn't running, and thus the engine achieves oil pressure following startup significantly sooner.
Depending where you are on this planet MANN is equal (same specification) to UFI and Baldwin here in Europe (In the US the US made MANN ML tends to be a less quality filter on the market from what I read) . The last 2 are very hard to get here. I guess it depends which brand is more dominant on a continent or perhaps license wise.
Speaking of purple filters. I bought a Royal Purple filter. It was expensive but sort of matches my purple car. Any top of the line filter is sufficient to the purpose though.
Bad choice. There are 3 companies that make filters with the correct design and yours is not one. The advice given prior was good and should have been followed.
Perhaps you are correct but I would like to know how the design is deficient. Royal Purple markets to the highest performance cars on the market. Although I don't know about Top Fuel Dragsters. I have been experimenting with oil and oil filters since the 1970's. Here is my summary. You need five psi with 10w-30w synthetic (and probably not that) and change it at least once every two years or 15,000 miles whether it needs it or not. 1991 Lincoln Mark VII at 7psi boost for 190,000 miles. It would do 130 mph at 3,000 rpms and more drag races then can count. No blow by. No oil consumption. No oil leaks. Then there is my 1965 Corvair I found in 1979. That engine was worn out the day I bought it. Blow by like a hurricane, but ran ok. Always intended to rebuild it and did so after 30 years of driving the living bejeezus out of it for about 40,000 miles. Perhaps a total of 150,000 miles. When I got the car the oil pressure light would come on if I used light oil. So used 40W non-synthetic. On rebuild we miked the bearings. Every last one of them was the same and every last one of them was at the high level of brand new. I believe that was the case because I DID run the hell out of it. No sludge or crud of any kind. I suspect the Ferrari uses higher quality matterials then a 1965 Corvair. But thats just me.
Everyone makes a filter with the correct thread and gasket diameter. The Ferrari additionally needs a standpipe and a one way valve because they stupidly put the filter upside down. But that's just me.
Well that's true but hardley the most important reason. In the old days Ferrari used to invalidate warranties for using filters of that design.
Would it not be cool to drive your Ferrari on the south pool! miles and miles of side ways driving through the snow and no salt!
Rifle is correct about need for drain-back check valve. Here are the specs on Royal Purple. I will try to find the modial specific part number later. Royal Purple Extended Life Oil Filters - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS
For the 3.2. I do not believe there is a Baldwin for the 3.4 liter used in the t and 348. I have UFI. Regards, Jerry
I also have looked for a standpipe model filter as a replacement and found only the UFI. However, I have measured the time to full pressure on the gauge comparing a Mann filter that fits my "T" and the UFI and the difference is about 1.5 seconds. Is this difference significant?
I've read of other measurements here between the two types of filters on the transverse V8, and the difference was around 2.5 seconds, so your data is a bit better - but those numbers were 2.5 seconds to read pressure with the standpipe filter, 5 seconds with a Fram filter without the standpipe. That's also double the time to build pressure on a cold start! Nonetheless - at 1,000 rpm, your 1.5 seconds extra with very low oil pressure is equal to 25 revolutions of the engine. I just keep thinking of the statistics that say 80% of engine wear occurs on cold starts - and the most important thing that can be done to minimize that cold start engine wear is to get the oil circulating as soon as possible. To me, that means use a 0W-xx or 5W-xx synthetic oil, and means to use the proper standpipe filter.
My thinking also. Cold start is where most of the wear occurs. For the price of an oil filter yearly (depending on mileage), why not use something that has the proper design? No aftermarket (i.e. Baldwin) to choose from. I used 15w-50 M1 on my last oil change, but I am in south Florida, where it normally doesn't get much below 50F. That is the high for most people for about 1/2 the year! Regards, Jerry
But seriously. The only serious threat to Ferrari bearings is that some cars experience oil starvation in hard right hand extended 'racing' turns. I looked into that for m 1886 Mondial and apparently it has all the required baffles. My local wrench, who changed my pan gaskets, remarked on all the baffles. I just do not believe anyone who owns a street Ferrari will ever wear out their bearings, no matter what we might use in the crankcase. My car has 55,000 miles and the last ten thousand have been vigorous. Fererari used a synthetic blend for my car. I use straight synthetic because I am more concerned about high temps on a hot day driving hot. When my oil temp guage approaches 230F I stop. Synthetic is good to 260F. And the only reason it does approach 230F is I refuse to replace the oil cooler fan. It keeps me from doing insane things.
I run the Fram HP-1 Racing oil filter in my '85 Mondial QV Cab. It has the anti-drain valve and is a perfect fit replacement. Best of all it's only $8 at Pep Boys. Check out the specs at the Fram website.
