Oil line rebuilding?

Hey all,

I was going thru all the parts I have replaced over the years and the only parts that have not been swapped or rebuilt are the top oil line and oil cooler.

I think guys have posted about successfully getting the lines rebuilt. I tried to get one rebuilt years ago ... they cut the outer sleeve off (which I think was threaded) and tried to crimp something on there that never worked.

Thoughts are:

1. Which parts will a shop re-use ... do they have the outer sleeve or do they somehow unthread that off the fitting and re use it? There is an external metric thread on the fitting I still have from years ago ... I figured the sleeve threaded onto it kinda like AN fittings but I've not been able to get one to unthread and I don't have the pieces the shop cut off years ago.

2. If these pices are a nightmare to get I can make a piece that threads on that will use standard -12 AN hose. The taper and size of the factory fitting where the hose slides on is very close in size to standard -12 ... the thread is metric though. I can either make the "nut" and use the stock steel "ferrel/fitting" or make a new "ferrel" that has the standard AN-12 back end on it and just use the factory nut that threads onto the oil cooler .... if others have had issues with getting this hose maybe one of these options is more appealing.

3. I could do what Chris did and just put an oil cooler in there with -12 fittings.

Thanks for any input .. cheers,

Sean

 

On a -12 AN hose the fine thread of the "hose lock nut" is 13/16-20 ... about .81" major dia. On the cheaper fittings there is just a taper ... Earl's fittings have another feature.

This feature on the Ferrari part has the same taper as the less expensive AN fitting with a M20-1 thread ... about .79" major dia.

cheers

 

I'm leaning towards making nuts so I can rebuild the lines myself forever. If I do that I need to buy a tap.

If I make the ferrel/center of the fitting with the detail for a standard -12 hose and nut I'll single point all the threads but I won't be able to make the line down below with the 90 degree fitting attached ... the nuts might work on all the lines which I really like. I replaced the bottom hose to the oil cooler 10 years ago so its relatively new . Just realized the nuts would be the way to go because I've got the banjo side to deal with.

So am I making myself work? ... will a competent line repair shop make this a non issue? Experiences?

cheers

 

http://aeroquip.cc/15163-16-12metric24degreedin39013902irhx37degreeflare.aspx

Here's an adapter that screws right onto the oil cooler and converting to -12.

Now I just need the Banjo side. Maybe a standard -12 Banjo is a little smaller than the metric so I can just open it up.

cheers

Edit: for the record this is a DIN 7631 fitting. I found hose ends for this also but still need to deal with the banjo end. This hose on both my 308's is hard as a rock! Can't wait to replace it.

http://www.precisionperformanceinc.com/metric_hose.html

 

Well, the upper and lower line have different attachment methods for the end fittings.

The reason I think is because the lower line needs to bend really quick so they put a trick AN style connection which the hose people cut in half when I just handed them that hose ... I haven't tried taking the bottom hose assembly apart yet though so maybe it's not so easy to disassemble.

I had a junk upper end off a fire motor which I cut open first so I didn't worry about ruining something reusable on one of the uppers I want replaced.

So, it looks like the top hose gets a crimp, and the bottom hose threads. When I bought the first 308 years ago the bottom hose was rubber. The replacement was braided as is the one on 308 #2. Was this rubber bottom hose factory or did someone replace the braided piece with that?

cheers
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Also, finding the Aeroquip adapters had simplified some of the plumbing for my dry sump conversion. I was planning on buying another oil cooler but might just buy the adapter fittings .... even though a new cooler isn't that much more $ than two of the adapters .

cheers

 

Thanks for posting ... I hadn't seen that adapter setup.

On one of my motors the filter housing had melted a bit so I welded it up and machined it for a -12 ORB. A standard swept 90 Earl's fitting worked but a cheaper "Summit" brand was just a bit bigger and would not. I try to avoid machining unmolested factory parts (especially castings) so I don't want to do that on this motor.

Can someone post a pic of a line they had rebuilt with the factory ends? I'm curious if the shops used really beefy crimp collars like what came off that require a specific jig setup or if they use something that I can crimp myself .

John did a shop rebuild both your lines successfully?

cheers,

Sean

 

That's a neat setup too ... Ferrari really does a lot of unique things for packaging and performance ... thats a great example ... that being said theres still tons of places for improvement ... a 308 is just a better starting point than a Miata for someone like me ... really feel for you guys that throw in the towel and buy something else after numerous postings that the 3x8's are the best cars ever ... they really are!

cheers

 

Because of your post I remembered I had some other fittings to try.

I found a metric to -12 adapter that screwed right into the filter housing, and then the Earl's swept 90 threads on there without removing anything ... so that end is sorted.

What did you do on the other end? Did you buy one of the adapter fittings I mentioned above or end up with a new cooler?

I have an extra nut so I can just make the center ... it'll have the ferell detail on one end and the -12 crimp nut thread on the other end which has a major dia just large enough for the nut to slide over ... at least thats the plan right now.

cheers

 

Okay made the new center so now I can just use -12 Earl's for the top line. Even though I could've bought a fitting that screwed onto the oil cooler and took a -12 line I didn't want that to be aluminum on the raw aluminum of the cooler ... that connection wants to gaul as it is. It also took me about as long to make the fitting as to drive down the hill and interface with a hose shop.

cheers
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I'm pretty happy with how it came out. The 90 deg line screws right on to the adapter on the filter housing.

cheers
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Thanks for the replies all.

Did a 3 hr tour in the mountains this morning to check integrity ... performed flawlessly. There's a couple guys who trailer race bikes up there ... I got to chase them a bit.

It's too bad the local hydraulic shop messed up my lower line which is why I wasn't real exicted about trying that route again. Plus the attachment method is different for the top and bottom hose so I would really like to see what method of connection they used.

I'd really like to see pics of any of the hoses that guys had repaired with factory ends.

Cliff ... your hydraulic shop actually had these ends for the upper and lower? ... give me the name of that place please! If the ends are easy to get I want some for spares.

Thanks,

Sean

 

Just wanted to share an action pic from this a.m. ...

I really luv capturing data on these drives. My car pulls 1g cornering pretty easily with thes 140 treadwear Hankook tires. Last week I pulled my axle shafts and magnafluxed them ... no cracks so I'm ready to lay the hurt down on some Porsches .

cheers
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Awesome Cliff! thank you!

cheers