Oil pan gasket change?

What's involved with changing the oil pan gasket? I've got an oil change coming up very soon, and it seems to me that it would make sense to do this gasket now as well since the motor will be empty anyway. Is it as simple as removing all the nuts around the perimeter of the pan?

Thanks in advance!

 

Crap...I just checked the archives of the main Tech section - it's not that simple. Argh... Oh well, just an oil change, then!

 

I changed mine before the summer (and the transmission gasket). I had a local guy do it and it wasn't lots of $$. It pays to do, unless you like to have those little drops on your garage floor.

 

I will be out in the garage very shortly to do this same exact job on a 77 GTB. The only hard part will be getting the dipstick off. I will report back. But maybe it also helps that the wheel and wheelwell are already out, and the alternator is already swung down? That didnt take that long though really, maybe 15 minutes? I had the tube off once before, and the only hard part was trying to figure out HOW to get a wrench on it. Once you do, turning it is the only other hard part

 

Removing the pan completely is not an option, unless you want to pull the engine. And even once the block is separated from the gearbox; Although a simple procedure, it still ain't that easy. Ask me how I know..

I just removed mine today, and my engine is on-the-bench.

The oil pan is not like the oil pan on your Ford.

On the Ferrari, there are two metal plates that are attached to the top of the pan. And the pan has a gate/trap for oil flow. Each metal plate is attached to the pan by four 8mm nuts on studs that are attached to the pan.

I tried to remove my pan without removing the plates. I could get to both sides of the crankcase, as the gearbox (which houses that part of the crankcase where the oil goes) was open to me on the bench. But I was unable to get the oil pan off, without first removing those plates, from inside the crankcase portion of the gearbox.

But Aaron,

Here's an idea.

When you undo the nuts on the pan, it will drop-down about an inch, as that is as far as I could get mine to lower without removing the plates.

So, it is probably possible to replace the gasket by sliding it long-ways onto one narrow end of the pan, and then turning it to rotate behind the pan, and then turn again, to orient logitudinally in place. Removing the old one first, of course!

Here are some picutres of what it looks like on the inside:
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nice pics!

 

I don't know if GT4's are different (I doubt it)
Here is a picture of the pan from my 84,
I have never touched the plates (baffles)......

plenty of info on how it's done in the archives (ask me how I know)

(but I really do like the idea of just working the gasket up there,
if it will clear the studs, without messing with the dipstick tube,
but cleaning off the old gasket would probably be impossible)
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Thanks for the great replies, everyone! This will be fantastic for future archival reference. In the mean time, though, I think I'm just going to say F*** it. I've got a major due next year, so I'll have it taken care of then. For now, an oil change alone sounds just fine...

 

That Dave. He even cleaned his hands for the picture.

 

Ha!

Actually, I was in the house eating dinner when I read this thread. Since I'd just finished working outside, and had all of this stuff out on the bench, I just went and snapped the pics.

Trust me; They were plenty dirty enough before!

(grabbing camrea...) brb....

Oops!

Ha! I was going to post a picture of my clothes to prove it; But my wife already washed them! LOL!!!

 

Since my last post I removed the dip stick tube and tube extansion (I used a magnet to lift the tube extension), removed the oil pan, cleaned off the gasket material, found the missing camshaft bearing cap washer I was looking for (dont ask), swapped pans with the other motor, and its almost all back together. I did some other odd jobs tonight as well. Honestly, I had the pan off in probably less than half an hour and it was time for dinner. I forgot the oil temp sender keeps it from coming out. I also found you have to rotate the pan to the back as it comes down, or it will hang up. I put the old pan back on, and had it bolted up, and then realised the drain plug is a different size than the other cars plug. This car was missing its plug and Hackdude installed a rubber expansion cork thing. So I de-bolted it, and swapped in the other pan.

Now I have my washer back, a real drain plug, and I know the bottom of the pan is all nice and clean. The pan is on tight, the tube is loosely screwed on, and I still have to screw in the temp sender. Tomorrow it should be running.

 

once you unscrew the dip stick nut you can stick your pinky in there and the extention will come out. Dont forget to remove oil temp sender in the front side, and you have to cock the pan sideways to get it off, because of the baffles, but it will come off, Ive done it 3 times, but if you dont remove the dip stick extention and sender it will not come off. the 328 has a lower pan and oil pick-up.

 

AAAHHHH!!!! So THAT'S what was holding it in there!

LOL!!!

Maybe that's a good one for the "Offiicial: 'How not to...." thread:

"Don't remove you engine and separate it from the gearbox to get the oil pain off. It's really not necessary!"

ROTFLMAO!!!!!

 

David you had me worried there tooI've removed my gearbox pan before and didn't have to pull the engine to do it.PS:How did you go with the solenoid?All fixed?

 

I tried to figure out how to get the cap off, and just can't figure it out. I could unsolder the connection on the outside of the cap; But I don't see how that will loosen anything that will enable the cap to come off.

So I'm thinking, "Maybe for $77 bucks, I should just buy a whole new unit, rather than try to repair my old one, that has spent a major portion of it's life (if not all it's life) a few inches from my exhaust header".

Ooops! I wasn't supposed to post prices

PS: Aaron, sorry for the hijack.