Oil temp

I stay under 4000 until the oil temp is around 170*. Takes a while for this when it's cold.

 

Yes

 

No. That is why they invented multi grade oils. With 5-40 oil driving with cold oil is a non event.

 

On some of the cars the oil temp needle never moves on a cold day. And by cold I am talking about 40 something degrees, not freezing.

If we had to wait for perfect oil temps we could only drive the cars a few months a year. Way too much paranoia about this.

 

I agree but I'm not revving my 360 above 4000 (maybe 4500 rpm) until the oil temp moves to the first line on the oil gauge regardless of oil grade. I don't do higher RPMs in my 997 either until oil temp has warmed. I want that oil film to be as effective as possible especially in the later half of the year as engine by products accumulate in it.

 

I guess I have to park Testarossa for half the year then. A part of the year the oil temp never moves. I must have already blown it up and just don't know it.

 

Daytonas are the same way. Drove mine from Houston to Clovis, NM (~800 miles) and actually thought the oil temperature gauge was busted. Finally, as I got near Lubbock, the gauge came up to 60 C, so I knew it was not kaput. 16-17 quarts of oil keep pretty cool at moderate (70-85 mph) speeds.

Funny thing is, my 575M does not show that same thing. Oil temperature comes up to 160 F in a few miles, even on a 30 F day.

 

I did research ..Alot of it in 2001 and I distinctly remember that you really should wait until oil gets to 175 before beating any engine .....Normally a 5 mile drive driving briskly keeping engine lower than 3500 but moving at highway speed accomplishes this...The best is to drive around town at 35 40 for 5 miles or so going thru gears before getting on her

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575 has a thermostat, Daytona does not. TR has a very large cooler and no thermostat. At idle for a very long time and it will creep off the bottom but go any steady speed and it looks like it is broken.

 

It's best but as Terry and I have pointed out there are some models that will never happen in and neither have ever suffered for it. In fact, the TR even with keeping the oil too cold is known to be one of the longest lasting motors Ferrari has ever built.

 

Gotcha 👍👍

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I can probably guess the video. He posts here sometimes. No its not necessary to let it idle before driving, but that makes for a boring youtube video about why you can't drive it every day.

 

I do this. Even in my normally warm environment it can take 15 minutes of driving before I get to the first line! It can take another 15 easy to get where I start using the whole car! I don't rev at all and stay below 4K, i feel like I am exercising discpline. Of course what Brian makes sense but I wont change my habits. I use that time to practice my gated shifter driving skills and see how smooth and efficient I can be with the clutch!

 

I idle my 430 for a minute max, mostly just to let the idle settle down. Then drive under 4500rpm and within 2 miles the oil temp has hit the first mark and it's good to go. I think the handbook says something similar. Warming the oil can't hurt but I think Brian is on the money too.

 

You obviously know nothing about Ferraris

 

Veglia. Faulty gauge or sender unit. Clearly.

 

You mean the 120* line?

 

My first mark (first line on gauge up from rest) is 60degC which is 140F for you. Full temp is 80ish degC or 180F.

 

Last time I had the 360 out it was 32 degrees here. Under normal driving conditions, oil temp never got above 160 deg F and water temp never exceeded 170 deg F.
I always wait until the oil temp needle moves before going above 4000 RPM and don't hammer the car until the temps above are reached. Even driven hard on a cold day won't get either temp reading to exceed 190.

 

A couple of points:

- believe F430 owners manual says to keep it under 4000 until oil warms up (need to check it but that is what I remember)
- I don't think the issue is blowing up the engine. I think it is one of premature wear. As engine warms, different parts heat up at different speeds meaning they expand at different speeds. So think cylinder wall as it is part of a large block will warm more slowly than a light weight piston for example. I excessive revs while wall is colder (read smaller) and piston larger leads to wear. While this sounds logical to me, I a, neither a mechanic or engineer so I may be all wrong here (so do not assume this is fact). This is just what my understanding has been FWIW.