Operating Oil Pressure for TR | FerrariChat
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Operating Oil Pressure for TR

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by a7see, May 14, 2005.

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  1. a7see

    a7see Karting

    Apr 8, 2004
    155
    Aberdeen, Scotland
    Full Name:
    AL
    #1 a7see, May 14, 2005
    Hi there. I have a 1988 TR and was wondering what is the normal working pressure shown on the gauge when the car is cruising on the motorway and when the car is idle at traffic lights? Mine showed round about the 1/2 way mark on the gauge when cruising down the motorway at ±90 mph but when idling at traffic lights, the indicator showed just above the starting mark on the gauge. Is it normal???? Also, the oil temperature hardly moves when cruising and it just shows slightly above the starting mark on the gauge. Could some kind soul please tell me the normal operating oil pressure, oil temperature and water temperature when the car is idle and when the car is cruising along motorways......

    Also, been trying to look for a passenger side fog light/ indicator light assembly lens cover but to no avail. Check google but the cheapest I'd seen was £400 for both complete assembly. Anyone knows where I could just get the lens alone?????
     
  2. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
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    Brian Crall
    #2 Rifledriver, May 14, 2005
    I would imagine that your average temps in Scotland are lower than here and that will have an affect on oil temp and pressure but not so far some basic numbers can't be arrrived at.

    Also Ferrari oil pressure gauges are well known for having accuracy problems so it would not hurt as a base line to have yours tested.

    The oil cooler has no thermostat and is very large so that on a very cool day (50 degrees F or less) the oil temp while cruising down the highway (60-70 mph) in 5th gear may hover around the bottom of the gauge. On a 100 degree day more like 200 degree oil temp. Driving around town on a cold day if you do it long enough there is less air cooling of the rad so the oil temp will be warmer than highway driving. It is rare unless you are driving the car very hard for the oil temp to go over 240.


    Oil pressure will, as I said vary due to temp but also it will vary from weight of oil. When cold the gauge will be somewhere in the top half of the range and during that time the motor should be used gently until the oil has gotten some temperature in it. Depending on the weight of oil you are using when the oil is at the hottest you will ever see it I would not worry if the pressure at idle goes down to a REAL 15 or 20 lbs or about 1 bar. It should rise as soon as the RPM comes up and should go over 70 lbs or 4.5 bar before it gets to 4k RPM. I know that is not the way it is stated in the book but if it will do that the oiling system will protect the motor.

    Water temp never goes above 200f. That is at idle in traffic on a 100 degree day. 180 at speed on a hot day. A TR just does not have cooling problems.


    In this country the front lenses were never supplied by themselves. They were only supplied with complete light assemblies so I think you are stuck.
     
  3. a7see

    a7see Karting

    Apr 8, 2004
    155
    Aberdeen, Scotland
    Full Name:
    AL
    #3 a7see, May 14, 2005
    Cheers Brian,

    The reason I got a bit worried is my previous 348 had slightly higher pressure gauge reading when idling but like you said, when the engine is running hot, the gauge reading was nearly at the bottom of the scale but increase as I was revving up to pull away from the lights. I don't remember seeing the pressure gauge exceeding the 1/2 way mark when I was driving at 80-90 mph. Is 70 lbs just below the half way mark on the gauge. I hardly notice the scales on these gauges. Cheers for the prompt reply.

    Al
     
  4. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    #4 Rifledriver, May 14, 2005
    That is lower than normal. In general that cars temps and pressures should be similar that of your old 348.

    I would have the gauge checked. If there is a problem with the pressure (I guess even a TR motor can break) I would be surprised if it was not something that is doable with the motor in the car.
     
  5. a7see

    a7see Karting

    Apr 8, 2004
    155
    Aberdeen, Scotland
    Full Name:
    AL
    #5 a7see, May 14, 2005
    Brian

    See on your oil pressure gauge, what is the range of the scale. ie, the starting mark, mid point mark and the highest mark. What numbers have they got on it. The reason I couldn't check mine is because I'm not home at the moment and won't be home till Monday or Tuesday. When I said it never reached the 1/2 way mark, its actually just below or at the 1/2 way mark when cruising at 80 mph with around 3000 rpm. I did not push it hard becos that was the first time the TR had done a 200 mile round trip since my wheel fell off in Febuary. Would appreciate it if you could tell me the scales on the gauge and then I will know what sort of pressure I'm looking during my last raod trip and hopefully it will put my mind at ease.

    Cheers again
     
  6. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    #6 Rifledriver, May 14, 2005
    Mine is not here it is at the shop, but if memory serves (I drive a lot of different cars) the mid point is 85 lbs.

    I run 5-40 synthetic oil and at cruising speed with hot oil it is pretty much always there (middle).

    Like I said 70-75 is ok but it would not hurt to ck with a good mechanical gauge.

    Also what oil is in it?
     
  7. a7see

    a7see Karting

    Apr 8, 2004
    155
    Aberdeen, Scotland
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    AL
    #7 a7see, May 14, 2005
    Brian

    I'm not sure but I think its 5-40 as well. So, about the front lens, is it possible you can point me in the right direction as to where to obtain one, whether new or 2nd hand. There must be somthing somewhere. If not, how much is a new set cost in US?????

    Al
     
  8. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    #8 Rifledriver, May 14, 2005
    Sorry I have no idea where to secure a lense by itself, if I did I would get a spare for me.

    Parts are almost always more here than there so I would ck with Ferrari UK.
     
  9. a7see

    a7see Karting

    Apr 8, 2004
    155
    Aberdeen, Scotland
    Full Name:
    AL
    #9 a7see, May 14, 2005
    Cheers Brain for all your help today. I had another small problem. When shutting the passenger door, I heard a clunking noise and it seems to do with the electric window mechanism (just guessing) as it sounds like something has came loose. Also, the locking pin sits higher than the one on the driver's side. Is it advisable to remove the door card myself to have a look and if so, any suggestion as to how to remove the door cards properly without me damaging it, ie how many screws need to be removed and how to remove it basically. Also, thw wind noise seeping thru the driver's side wing mirror panel is unbearable. Any idea how to fix it????? I think the seals are gone and if so, I couldn't find anyone supplying it yet.....will keep looking though....

    Al
     
  10. bpu699

    bpu699 F1 World Champ
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    Dec 9, 2003
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    #10 bpu699, May 14, 2005
    Brian, is the 5-40 what you generally recommend in testarossa's?. I don't want to beat a dead horse here, but seems most folks mention 20-50. And yes, I have read just about all of the oil posts...

    I know you see a loy of these cars and would appreciate another data-point here.... Thanx!
     
  11. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

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    #11 Rifledriver, May 14, 2005
    I used to use 20/50 in almost everything and gave all the cars and motorcycles time to warm up. With all the really great oils we have now I have become a real devotee to the lighter oils.

    I wouldn't go to the track with 5-40 but I do everything else with it.
     

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