P 4/5 oil

You probably know this, but the excess temperature was the cause of the low pressure. Fix the oil cooling problem and you won't have a pressure problem any more.

 

Thanks for the great video. I'd have liked to see the outside camera mount. How was it rigged?

 

They shouldn't run any cooler. Their viscosities might be less affected by the temperature to help keep the pressure up, but you still don’t want it running over temp.

I would fix the temperature problem first.

If you don’t have room for larger oil coolers perhaps a water/oil heat exchanger to cool the oil and water/air exchangers mounted in the airflow where the current oil/air exchangers are would solve the problem since water dumps heat more readily than oil?….it would add a little weight though with the extra parts.

 

Ah, the answer to all problems.

 

MR. G

You might want to try Redline or Motul Ester. The polyol ester basestocks (group V) are more high temperature stable that other basestocks.

 

I'm just curious but why is this? Wouldn't the coolant expand from temperature? Or does it then occupy the overflow tank and thus lower the pressure? I'm pretty inexperienced here but it just seemed to me to be the reverse. Can you explain why it's the reverse? Thanks

 

My question would be: How does the new bodywork affect the airflow into the oil cooler? Was the ducting modified in P4/5 (angles, length, etc) to feed the oil cooler from the original Enzo format?

 

they are talking about the oil, not the coolant.

 

So am I. There is an oil cooler in the car with a big fat duct running into it.

http://www.ricambiamerica.com/article_info.php?articles_id=1284

 

One should read, AND Understand my articles here:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=new_faq_item#faq_haas_articles

Then you would see that hot oil is normal under these conditions and it thins when hot. This is good too as it allows for more flow. A thicker oil would run hotter. A thinner oil would run cooler. FYI, Shell Helix Ultra 10W40 thins very fast. This may be planned to allow for more flow. Look at this used oil comparison I posted on BobIsTheOilGuy web site:

This is my neighbor’s 2003 Ferrari Enzo with a total of 8,800 miles on the left column and my 2003 Enzo with a total of 3,000 miles on the right column. Both cars had 1,400 miles on the oil. His obviously had more break-in time. He had the oil changed by the Ferrari dealer using the required 10W60 Shell Helix Ultra Racing oil. I ran 0W30 Castrol GC.

The recommended interval is 5,000 miles, less if on the track. This is strictly off track use in town and on the highway, probably 50-50 for his car and 90 percent city for me.

His oil was tested by: www.youroil.net, while I got the full, total evaluation from Terry Dyson at www.dysonanalysis.com.
................................................................................................................

_____________Shell....GC
Iron___________ 32...11
Chromium _____<1...0
Nickel ___*_____ 2...1
Aluminum ______11...3
lead __________ 16...0
Copper ________25...8
Tin ___________<1...0
Silver ________<.1...0
Titanium ______<1...0
Silicon _________ 7...3
Boron _________ 1...3
Sodium ________ 8...3
Potassium ____<10...0
Molybdenum __ <5...1
Phosphorus __1026...935
Zinc ________ 1135...1228
Calcium _____ 1454...1671
Barium _______<10...0
Magnesium ___1219...526
Antimony _____<30...0
Vanadium ______<1...0
Fuel %Vol _____<1...1.2
Abs Oxid ______34...10
Abs Nitr _______11...8
Wtr %vol ______<0.1...KF=247 &#8220;nice dry fluid&#8221;
Vis CS 100C __ 15.8...11.8
Vic CS 40C___not done...66
SAE Grade _*___40...30
Gly test ______NEG...0.37 &#8220;not antifreeze&#8221;
TBN _________not done...7.9

Castrol GC is the German made European Formula 0W30. Mine stayed in its 30 grade whereas his fell from 60 to 40 grade in just 1,400 simple miles of use.

aehaas

Currently I am running Renewable Lubricants Incorporated, RLI, biodegradable, vegetable based oil, 0W30. My 0W30 shows a lot less wear though his numbers are still in the normal range. One could say that he shows normal wear and I show just about no wear.

aehaas

 

I ran (engineered) a Maserati MC12 FIA GT car in the Japanese GT series and we ran the following oil, as recommended by Maserati Corse (and Ferrari SPA):

Pakela 10W60

As the MC12 motor is basically the enzo motor which is your motor the oil should be good for you.

Many of the races in Japan are very, very hot, and we never had problems with our car. (650 ish hp)

PM me if you want more info

 

I know we’ve had this discussion before but this is all very wrong advice and will result in catastrophic engine failure if followed. It would be true in a constant pressure system, but that's not what automotive engines have. Automotive systems are positive displacement pumps that deliver a constant flow which is independent of viscosity at any given rpm. Running thinner oil will result in inadequate pressure which in turn results in inadequate film thickness and poor oil dispersion to the various components. You've collected a lot of good data but you are not interpeting it correctly. You need to stop giving this advise, you are going to help someone ruin their engine.

 

I'd be very concerned. 35 psi at redline means the oil film in the bearings will be pretty thin, maybe too thin and metal to metal contact possible. You might want to have the oil tested to see if it picked up much metal if you haven't already dumped it just to make sure all is still well.

 

Oh, Oh, Oh....never mind. Down 5 psi is not a concern, I thought you meant you had 35 psi at full revs where I'd guess normal was closer to 70.

 

You're never wrong to spend the $100 or so to test the oil and know everything is doing fine, but if you were only down 5 psi it's not reqired I don't think. If it was my $100k+ engine I probably would test it at every oil change or at least any oil change after track time. It's always better to know if your engine is making metal so you can tend to it before a bearing or rod lets go and takes the whole engine with it. An oil test is cheap insurance.

 

I wonder what the F1 teams were running. I realize that you're talking about full on race cars versus a street car. I also realize that you have to warm up the oil for an F1 car before even starting the engine. So does this make this an invalid comparison?

Dale

 

If I owned that car I would send a letter through the Ferrari owners site and ask them to respond. I would be surprised if they dont suggest a straight 70 weight for operation under those conditions.