P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input

I believe it is. I am sending you my good, used one today.

 

F * C K! Sorry to hear.

 

A good trick we used to use in diagnosing leaks was to lightly dust all possible entry points with brake clean while watching the O2 sensors in closed loop and at idle. Obviously err on the side of conservative while surgically spraying. A spike to 800-900mV indicates a leak at that area. Also be carefull so that the airboxes don't pick it up and give you false positives. A good smoke machine goes for $1K so I don't think I'll be buying one before I buy a good Snap-On puller set. The evap system is also suspect. You said you tried an OEM chip right? I might be available this weekend if I don't go gold dredging

 

Relays? Really?
Glad you got it all worked out, and you are very fortunate to be so close to a Ferrari guru like Brian.
I think we would all love to hear the the correlation between the relays and your error code.
An education, if you will. Do give us more details!

 

The man knows his sh_t!

 

Indeed, Brian is the man! Tom, please ask Brian how he went about the diagnosis.

Thanks

 

Also, ask him if the ECU relay is the one directly above the fuel pump relay.

Thanks!

 

I would love to take credit but my mechanic John fixed the car and I have not really digested what all he did yet because part of the time I was down at the FCA event at Avila Beach and since I have been back I have been knee deep in alligators with other projects. I did spend about an hour driving the car on Monday trying to get the check engine light to come back on without success. After the drive and a quick check on the SD2 we sent the car over and it passed Smog easily. I am waiting for a few parts to arrive to take care of a couple of other items on the car and we will get it back into Toms hands.

I will say that being very old school I had him check compression on it first to be sure we even had a motor to fix and the motor is very sound in the car.

I feel very fortunate with the people I have. Anyone who is an employer understands very well how hard it can be to find good ones. It has been a real struggle to find the right people but John is a real master at Motronic and made pretty quick work of the problem.

If this keeps up maybe I can take a vacation next Summer. What a switch that will be.

 

No vacation for you Brian because he'll do what happens when I get a real good employee. He'll leave you and start his own business, get lots of business because of cheaper prices (initially low overhead), then slowly take your customers.

 

DUMB QUESTION: Has anyone ever though of prophetically changing ALL the relays and fuses in their cars. I was always under the impression that, in almost all instances, these electrical parts function or they don't - really no middle ground. But with Tom's and others recent experiences, perhaps this might be a good idea, as our F355s are up to 13 years old. Worst case scenario, it would be a waste of money and time, but it also might prevent or mitigate a lot of these "weird" pain in the as_-type electrical problems. Plus you could clean and apply Stabilant 22 to all the contacts. Thoughts/comments??

 

Privet! Kak dela? (three years in high school... )

 

Tom,
I have battled this cold start idle issue (it is intermittent) for about two years now, ideling at 750 rpm. It only does it cold, never hot. I noticed sometimes it is influenced (or so it appears) when I release the clutch after starting, the idle will drop from 1400rpm. Other times, it does it regardless. Almost always, if I shut down, and restart, it will cold idle normally (1200 to 1400 rpm depending on ambient temp). Once in a while, I have to try a third start, to get it to idle properly. Car starts warm just fine. I have replaced the following (diagnostics by parts replacement!) idle control valve, Motronic water temp sensor, and throttle position potentiometer. I had the dealer look at this several times, but they claim to not be able to duplicate the problem. (weird, cause it happens pretty regularly for me). They checked fuel pressures, they were fine. The also replaced the connectors to the idle control valve. No change.

Someone else with a 5.2 posted this problem too. I have cleaned all the AMP connectors in my engine compartment, and treated with Stabilant 22A, I even did the big connector to the Motronic box. No change.

I recently had a "pending" code for the intermittent connection to the #5 injector, so I cleaned the connector up. I had good starts for about 3 weeks, then it came back. I scanned again for codes, but nothing.

Dave Helms suspects I have some suspect Amp connectors and that I should simply change them all out. I would imagine a break out box might be the solution to diagnosing this problem.

 

We left the error in memory intentionally. It will be much more prone to set a check engine light that way if there is a recurrence of the problem. The fact that it has not yet set a light is a very strong indicator the problem is gone. You told us that when you brought it in it would not run long enough without setting a check engine light to get a smog cert. Since the first day we had it it has not set the light. The rough running we discussed and is a seperate problem.

Two things I can guarantee
One is if there is a problem we will stand behind the work.

The other is your car will be the best indicator if there is a problem and poking around the system may make that impossible to tell and difficult to diagnose. Please leave it alone and just drive it.