Dom, if you can bleed brakes and have access to compressed air, you can replace caliper seals. Remove caliper from vehicle (prop brake pedal down an inch or so to prevent reservoir draining) Place caliper on bench, block all but one piston with c-clamp (careful not to scratch piston), stuff shop towels in and around the caliper Pop piston out using soft-tipped air gun nozzle (careful, comes out fast, potential for damaged fingers, eyes, and pistons! Fluid is gaseous momentarily, protect the work area) Clean caliper with brake-cleaner and/or fresh brake fluid. You may use Scotchbrite gently to remove baked-on seal material and brake dust. Inspect piston for gouges, scrapes, highly worn areas where the seal cannot seal. Replace piston if scratched or damaged in seal area Using a pick, R&R seal, keep cleaning, use a little grease on the new seal Lubricate piston with PBR rubber grease or fresh brake fluid, don't lube with incompatible grease Reinstall piston by simply pushing into bore. It will go in nice and easy if you're normal to bore. If it doesn't, you've co cked the piston (I hate when that happens, it'll scratch) Block resealed piston, move to next piston Rinse, repeat Reinstall calipers, bleed system thoroughly PBR rubber grease can be sourced from many places, I know you can get it here: Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies Use your favorite parts source for caliper rebuild kits. If your looking for race quality high temperature seals, I can get them, they're expensive but remain plyable at higher temperatures. For you racers, take your old seals and bake at 550 degF for a couple hours. See what happens. Next to repacking CV joints, this is the worst maintenance job (bathing in brake fluid). Best regards, Rob Schermerhorn