Perplexed in PSL

1) Which ones are disturbing you? There really isn't much difference over the 11 years of 308 except for fuel pump, windows, and heater/ac fan which were 25A in early cars and 16A in injected cars.

2) What the previous PO or his mechanic did can vary for a good reason or simply a mistake. Best to start over with the manual as your guide. If you find some fuses blowing, then find out why. I.e. don't put in higher rated fuses without a good reason. Windows do start to draw more voltage as the greases sets etc etc.

3) Yes, to install the Birdman or do other major electrical work, you must unplug the battery by pulling out the battery ground connector. After a few attempts you will be able to put it back without looking.

Note: When you upgrade from Bosch torpedo fuses to US SAE cartridge fuses for the Birdman fuseblock, you will not find the exact ratings you had. You will use 7.5A (or 10A) instead of 8A and 15A instead of 16A.
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Left fuse block:
The #3 fuse for the fuel pump should be 16A. The cover is NOT for your car. I've searched by can't find what car it could be from.

Right fuse block:
The first 4 fuses are for the headlights. High beam, high beam, low beam, low beam. No reason for any of them to be different from 8A. Fuses 5 & 6 are for parking lights and should also be 8A. The right cover is NOT for your car, valuewise it does fit a 208 Turbo ~1982.

Incidentally, your existing fuse blocks do look factory fresh, best I've seen and certainly not a pending problem. Except for the fuel pump fuse, I'd be tempted to pull the number masking tapes off the connectors and leave everything as it as long as everything works. Yearly, use a fingertip to rotate each fuse slightly in the socket and enjoy the car.

Good job of photo documenting your bewilderment.
I am posting the fuse block schematic so you understand how various fuses are connected together at the top.

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It isn't really a big deal. Fuse 4 is low beam and should be 8A, sure.

Nr 5 and 6 are parking. What they've done is split them to right front and left rear are one fuse and left front and right rear are the other. In this way if one blows there is still lights at front and rear...nice touch.

Couple years back I had one of those parking light fuses blow when I'm at the last 20 miles of a 1000 mile trip trying to make it home. When my #5 fuse blew the instrument gauge lights went out also. And within a few minutes a sheriff saw my missing tail light and pulled me over, while I'm without any knowledge of my speed having no gauge lights. Routine excuse for a stop and happy ending.

Later, I spent way too many hours trying to find out why and was it right front, left rear, gauge lights, must be a frayed wire somewhere but found nothing. Split fuse 5 into 4 separate circuits with 5A fuses but none blew while driving off a tank of gas with lights on trying to duplicate the circumstances. Normally I'd say sure change them back to 8A but guess I'm affected by the experience and don't see any problem running them with a heavy fuse but yes, they should be 8A also. So, if I had a 16A rather than an 8A perhaps it wouldn't have gone out but who's to know? Never found a frayed wire or any reason for the fuse to open up and it could have been a bad fuse too. 16A or 8A, your choice, manual says 8A.