Can anyone tell me if this is repairable ? I know theres not a whole lot of detail, to me anyways since I'm no electrical engineer Thanks, WH Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I would try taking it to a local TV repair place ( mom & pop shop) and let an expert give you his opinon. Mark
I can't see the details, but looks like a very simple job to make functional again. You wouldn't win a conourse (if they inspected the back of your fusebox ), but replacing the traces with point to point wiring would only be a matter of a few hours of solder slinging.
Should be very easy to have the board tracks photographed & have it re-manufactured.Here's one company you could goto. http://www.ustechnologies.com/products/printed_circuit.cfm All the best, Mike
I'm going to have it trailered down to our engineering office in Bridgeport & have those guys take a look at it
It's a multi layer board and far from simple to repair (no circuit diagrams availible) or make from scratch as it will take some serious reverse engineering to do. (But I guess you have access to that at Hubell or by using Mike's suggestion).
Have you priced and availability checked a new one....... May be surprised. May find some one helpful... allan888 offered help I think?
I think that it easily repairable. Must have been a job to disassemble. What happened to the replacement that you were PM'd about? What does a new one cost? were all of the wiring harness connections soldered to the board?
Hi William, I got your PM and tried to respond but your mailbox was full. That thing is way more complicated than the 308 fuseblocks I make, so I can't help you there. Can you provide more detail on what you mean by "fried"? What happened and what was the electrical result? Did something overheat? Are some circuits not working now? It may turn out that a replacement is the best answer but hard to say without more info. Best, Birdman
Hi Thanks, my mechanic wasnt very descriptive & I probably wouldnt understand him if he was I'm going to have my guys take 1st crack at it, theyre pretty good
Good day William, I am an Electrical Engineer (I specialize in embedded system design) and after reviewing your pics it is not clear is there are burnt/melted traces. There is an area in the PCB picture that looks suspect, but I cannot tell for sure. If you are convinced that the PCB is damaged, then you have two choices of repair: 1. Reverse Engineer the various damaged circuits and bypass these melted traces with point to point wiring (as suggested by someone else). This is certainly not very visually appealing and may result in future problems and/or reliability issues (wire could break loose, etc). 2. Reverse Engineer the PCB and create a new one. If the PCB is a simple one/two layer design a basic fabrication cost would be approx $200-$500 plus engineering time. The reason for the price difference is because of fabrication options (top/bottom side silkscreen, soldermask, etc). My guess once you include the engineering time and shipping costs the total price could be over $1000. If the PCB is greater than 2 layers (has internal layers), the engineering time increases (maybe dramatically) and the fabrication can also increase a lot. This is because the fabrication process is more complicated and will necessitate an electrical test (an option the board house will offer to ensure that the internal layers are not shorted, etc). The bottom line here is if the design is greater than 2 layers, your cost will be a lot higher and I would suggest that you purchase a new one or one from a salvage dealer. Lastly, before you run out and have the unit repaired, etc you must be absolutely certain as to what caused the failure(s). To have PCB traces of the sizes (widths) I can see fail (melted and/or burnt) a significant amount of current must have be flowing (short, etc). I hope this helps! Cheers, Sam
Sam's advice is good. The "ma and pa" TV shop (if you can still find one) might be able to patch up the board, but reproducing it is a somewhat more involved process. (Although with experience and a steady hand, you might manage a one or two layer board at home with some supplies from Radio Shack and a hardware store -- or maybe a hobby shop for photo screened. But that's a pretty big job for a home etching operation.) With the car's wiring diagram (if complete), you could re-engineer the board's functional circuitry, if not the exact traces. From that, you (or your engineer) could find if the board could be reproduced in a one or two layer board. It wouldn't be concourse, without duplicating the original traces, but it would replicate the circuits. Properly engineered, it might be better than the original. Stephen, one reason that people aren't re-creating the original 308/328 fuse board is that the original wasn't a very good design -- the traces and connectors were insufficient for the current load on several of the circuits. If you're going to have a new board built (rather than replace with another original), you might want to go with better connectors. There aren't that many concourse 308/328 cars.
While i agree, i wonder if we could somehow design a direct fit substitute board. Can anyone make such boards. i realize the initial design/fabrication stage may be $, though once that is done having a run of a few hundred boards would be inexpensive. i would be willing to help finance such a venture.
Good day All, I design PCBs all the time... most of the time they are multi-layer (6 and up) high frequency designs that involve quite sophisticated software/layout tools... That being said, here is a rough overview on the cost of a replacement 308/328 PCB. The 308/328 PCB would be quite straightforward (2 layer) and would be drop in replacements, albiet with design improvements (increased trace width and/or copper weight). The upfront costs (engineering time, initial PCB prototype/setup charges, automated assembly setup) would be difficult to recover on a few boards and I would estimate that one would need to sell 30 or 40 @$120 each to recover these costs. A breakdown on this per-unit number is as follows: Procurement (PCBs, parts, coordinate with assembly house, shipping of raw materials to/from assembly house, etc) $10-20 Bare PCBs (quantities of 50/100) $ 10-$20 Assembly $20-40 (automated and manual) Parts $10-20 Packaging/handling $10-$20 Further, this would be for one PCB design. I am unsure if the 308 and 328 share the same PCB and if not then then two designs (and costs) would be required. Anyway, this should give everyone an overview of what would be involved. Cheers, Sam
William- PM me if you like, I can get new ones made to various mil-specs that will far outlast the crap that Ferrari put out in the early 80s. EDIT: your guys should be able to handle it, esp if it's a 2-layer.
Sam and Artherd, So the 308... (with apologies to William for hijacking here). What would it take to make a new 308 relay board happen? Is it just a few $k to get a run going of, say, 50 boards? Price discount for a 100 board run would be ??? Let me know as will gladly take bids from both of you. PM me accordingly off this thread. Thank you.
Um, are we talking an F 40 here? I for one would not want a "couple hundred" F 40 boards lying around in my inventory unless I was the only source for them! Ken
It really isn't rocket science to repair this stuff. The burnt section probably only has copper traces on one side. Just take a sharp knife to scrape the protective paint off the copper and solder a 18 gauge wire across the fried sections. Check the current loads on the chasis schematic to get large enough wire. Probably the process that causes this kinda of failure is corrosion on the connector pins to the point where current draw increases. One suggestion: maybe use two 18 gauge wires instead of one 14 gauge. Our cars are almost 20 years old and at least the electrical system is very low tech. Good luck! Jeff Pintler 89 348tb, 86 TR
I'm surprised no one has mentioned it yet, but that fuseboard/fusebox assembly looks absolutely identical to my Testarossa's. It would not surprise me if Ferrari re-used the part to save design/manufacture money. It wouldn't take too long with a voltmeter to verify they were identical. TRs also have these kinds of fusebox problems, so there are lots of junk TR fuseboxes available (including 3 in my garage) and a plentiful supply of decent fuseboxes from wrecked/damaged cars. I would check that avenue.
