Please help!! F355 stalls when warm!!

Hey guys,
I've been looking through these forums for a few months now and can't find an answer to my problem.
I have a 98 f355 f1 and the wires for the ecu and transmission that are located behind the passenger seat were accidentally swapped. The car wouldn't start and I noticed the mistake I had made, swapped them back and now after driving for about 15 min the clutch begins to act up and stall. I thought I had caused damage to the ecu so I switched that out and I'm still having the same problem. The cars "POS" has been adjusted as well. I checked all the pins they seem to be correct. I don't know what else to look for. Any ideas what it might be?? Thanks for the help.

-Ben

 

I assume you mean PIS and not POS?

I'd suggest you take it to someone with an SD or equivalent.

 

Thanks for the reply, yes I meant the PIS. I checked the codes and the only code available was for the clutch position sensor. It seems to be working when the car is cold but stops working when it warms up. The car was running fine before doing the engine out maintenance. The CPS had no problems. Is there anything else I should be looking for?

 

How did the pins get swapped originally?

And if you know what andnwhere they were swapped if you didnt supply voltage to something that didnt need it then nothing may have happened.

Did you reset the computers? Disconect the battery and then try it?

Also with acronyms not everyone knows what you may be talking about.

 

Did you disconnect the clutch when you did the engine out?

 

^^^
There is a recent posting about clutch bleeding.
Could be that the clutch has not been fully bled, and that air was trapped. When warm air expands and causes more problems.

 

Check your system pressure and verify that it's not dropping off as the pump gets hot, Also check that you aren't getting low pressure spikes, also check that the F1 pump relay isn't getting hot and sticking, causing the pump to stop running. Also check your actual clutch position value with the scan tool, while running the car, see if the position value goes out of whack or disappears completely. These are all reasonable diagnostic starting points, at least eliminating will tell you if you have to get deeper and inspect the wiring harness for a short somewhere deeper, that only becomes severe enough to cause a problem after everything is hot.