I have stop lights. The fuse only burns when I try to turn the lights on is the fuse for the dash lights, plus fog lights plus de license plate lights
So i should take out the fuse box to check. The connections are fine no blown but I will take the complete box tomorrow to check and I will let you know.
Botero did a fair number of short fuses. One of them is thought to bring good luck to women in search of men if the rub it. It has a very different patina, at least in certain areas. On the electrical side, I would first pull the fuse and check for power at the top of it, since this is coming straight from the relay. If there is power present, put the fuse back in and try to test for it downstream. Reaching the spade connector is really hard but is possible. If there is power there, inspect the spade connection in the terminal block, since they can become damaged or the wiring connection right at them overheats and melts the insulation off then the whole thing fills with corrosion and becomes high in resistance.
Yup, it's about time to take your meter and start checking out the affected circuits. Print out the electrical diagram and rule out one for one. Try to make connections between the affected circuits. Doing this on a Mondial is not very easy because everything is well hidden. Good luck, take your time for it. At the (very) endit's rewarding.
See Sticky Post #12 http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/mondial/494675-mondial-do-yourself-thread.html ok lets get us all on the same page I believe that you are blowing fuse 17? 1) make sure that it is the proper Amp rating 2) are the lights popping up or does it blow before that? 3) easy check is to disconnect each (light and light motor) from its harness then turn switch on and systematically check the harness for power (sometimes you can find the harness that is shorting) then plug in each component until the fuse blows (the component that blows the fuse is typically the offender ) Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Happy new year! Let's hope without the fireworks in your fusebox. According to this I see the schematics posted earlier in this thread is different, 28 fuses instead of 24 in the post of dfranzen. Do you have the 2x12 fuse layout or the 2x14 fuse layout?
JOHAN EXCELLENT CATCH I POSTED THE US 2x12 INSTEAD OF THE EURO 2x14! mea culpa That said which fuse # is blowing?
Fuse 21 (A16) Right box rear lights, license plate lights, instrument panel lights, Front fog lights. Comment: I have fog lights in flashing mode but not when I switch them on with its corresponding switch.
OK after looking at the Euro diagram and your fuse 21 Can we assume that your lights worked before? i reviewed your original post when you state "indicator" are you speaking about the console indicator light or the actual light? I will assume that you are talking console indicator this is how I would proceed, it will require several fuses handy disconnect console harness remember the order that they are in and turn switch on repeat for each harness until fuse does not blow(license plate, instrument panel, fog lights, rear lights) on US model fog lights and tail lights should have two different circuits (head light and hazard) so foglights can work in hazard mode
here's an interesting thought. taking a resistance reading and probing to vehicle ground, then backtracing the circuit for changes in resistance significant enough to render a zone of shorting? or are we all very positive that it's internal to the box? by most schematics, start your first measurement at vehicle ground, then at the ground wire, then at the ground of the bulb, each step upwards back to the plug on the fuse box. easy (ish), non-invasive, and non-destructive. once you zero into a zone we can theorize needed repairs.
its under the console see diagram , however I think we need to start with basic , see next post Image Unavailable, Please Login
your problem is : "no license plates lights, side lights or front fog lights". Steve Magnussum posted earlier "What might be more important here is that the +12V wires going to the rear license plate bulbs are not shorted/melted to the exhaust system -- have you checked this? " lets start at the license plate bulb assy harness see diagram labeled 5 1) take unscrew the license plate bulb assy and gently pull out (careful as the harness is still connected ) inspect the assembly for corrosion/dirt/stuff 2) now that you have the harness trace it back to where it connects to the main harness per diagram located in left engine bay area and along the way Inspect for shorted/melted to the exhaust system 3) unplug from main harness and check for continuity of just the license harness (place one lead voltmeter on terminal connection that would plug in the main harness and other end at the license assy ) 4) report back Image Unavailable, Please Login
None melting signs, wires are perfect. 1) only dirt but there is continuity 2) not melted, v good condition 3) all checked. there is continuity Next?
