Your fuse will blow because 12V/nearly 0 ohm is a lot more than 15A. Now you can try the following (accu still disconnected and relais f, g, q and r still removed) : 1. If pin 87 of relais q was also nearly 0 ohm then disconnect connector Z en measure again. 2. If you measure a high resistance now, the problem is probably in the external wiring. In that case we have to do some more checks later to be really sure. 3. If you measure again nearly 0 ohm then the problem is probably in the fusebox. In that case we still have to do some more checks to be really sure. I think it is good to perform these measurements and report back.
Here are the results with Z disconnected: -Relays G and Q measure more than 0, they go up to 1 -Relays F and R still measure 0
Ok, the next step is to remove fuse 11 and measure at pin 87 of relais F. If still 0 then remove fuse 12 (do not place fuse 11 back) and measure again. Repeat till fuse 17. Does the resistance change?
Fuse 11 and 12 are nearly 0, 13 is 1, 14 is 1, 15 is 1, 16 is 1 and 17 is one. All with same conditions as before (4 relays out and Z disconnected and + battery disconnected too)
The resistance should be infinite now with all the fuses removed, Z disconnected and the accu disconnected. In this case there is nothing wired to pin 87 of relays F. So I am afraid there is something wrong inside the fusebox. Maybe we can do some additional measurements tomorrow to see is we can temporarily avoid the short.
That's good, now it's a good idea to put one fuse back and see what happens. If zero then remove and try the next fuse. Record wich fuse is infinite and which not. So only one fuse at a time.
Based on this diagram from Dfranzen…..: 11: 0 12: infinite 13: infinite 14: infinite 15: infinite 16: infinite 17…this is the one that bows: infinite
Are you sure 11 is really 0 ohm? With connector Z removed only the high beam indicator light is still connected there. That should be more than 30 ohm, in that case it is ok. The next step is to put everything back together except for relays G. Check if fuse 17 now blows. If not, disconnect connector J and put back relays G and check if fuse 17 blows. If not, the problem is probably outside the fusebox and we have to look further outside the fusebox.
Measured again and it is infinitive fuse 11… "The next step is to put everything back together except for relays G. Check if fuse 17 now blows." It doesnt blow
"If not, disconnect connector J and put back relays G and check if fuse 17 blows. If not, the problem is probably outside the fusebox and we have to look further outside the fusebox." It doesn't blow!
Ok, then it is probably external. I will take a look at the schematics and come back with some additional tests.
Because it doesn't blow with only connector J disconnected we can narrow it down to only a few possible causes for a short circuit: 1. License plate lights 2. Check control panel 3. Front fog lights The front fog lights can be a likely cause. If not mounted, the wiring is there and maybe causing a short. You can easily check this by connecting connector J and disconnecting connector K and check if fuse 17 blows. If not the problem is in the fog light wiring. If it blows it's either the check control (not likely) or the License plate light or cabling, this is more likely.
Front fog lights disconnected as they were. "You can easily check this by connecting connector J and disconnecting connector K and check if fuse 17 blows. If not the problem is in the fog light wiring. If it blows it's either the check control (not likely) or the License plate light or cabling, this is more likely." report: It blows
Ah, that rules out the fog lights. Now we have to take a look at the license plate wiring or the light itself. It is a good idea to remove the lights and see if there is any short in the armature or damage to the wires. It is a highly suspected place because ground and live wires are close together here. Tomorrow evening after 21:00 I am at home and give some more support. But it's good to look at the license plate lights first. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I remember there is a connector in the trunk near the trunk lid to disconnect the license plate lights (at least it is in my 3.2). If you have enough fuses you can disconnect this connector and try again... That rules out the trunk lid part. Are the wires between the lid and the trunk itself in good shape?
The next check is to leave the connector in the trunk disconnected and to disconnect connector J from the fusebox. Measure now the resistance between ground and the third terminal (counted from the right side of the connector, wire 3) of connector J (not on the fusebox but on the wired connector). According the schematics this is a double wire (pink and pink/yellow).
