Please Help

Ok, I will do that in a few minutes and report back

 

Report: nearly 0

 

So all the wires to the switch are completely disconnected?
The next step is the check panel, i have to find out tomorrow how.

 

Yes, al the wires to the switch disconnected. Again, it is 0 with the lights off. If I turn them on…its 0,3

 

Still a short to ground...

This is the diagram of the switches. You disconnected the red one but it's also wired tot the blue one (rear bonnet opening switch). The next step is to disconnect this as well and measure the pink cable to ground. If it's still zero then the problem isn't here.
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The parking light instead of the main beam light can be explained. The parking light is connected to our "short" and thus to ground. When you switch the lights on the blue line stays at 0V instead of 12V, the other side of the lamp will be 12V so it will light up. In a normal situation both sides will be 12V and the lamp will be off. So it's related to our short.

I don't expect the problem to be here unless lamp 43 is shorted.
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The next one is the odometer. This unit is in the circuit as well due to the panel illumination rheostat. This is why the panel illumination is not working at the moment. What we can do here is:

1. Turn the panel illumination to the lowest level and measure the resistance to ground of the pink wire.
2. Turn the panel illumination to the highest level and measure the resistance to ground of the pink wire.

Check if there is a difference between 1 and 2.
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Lamp 43 is fine

 

You mean the pink wire still in the fog light? If yes, there is no difference. If you mean in the odometer, there is no pink wire there, only 2 blue that are connected to 2 lamps

 

Yes, i mean the wire you disconnected from connector J. With the odometer i mean the unit with the clock. But if you changed the rheostat for the intensity of the panel illumination you did the correct check.

 

There is no change on the pink wire

 

still nearly 0

 

That means this part of the circuit is ok.

The second part is the license plate circuit and the check panel circuit. I have to find out how we can easy check this.

 

ok. should I connect all the switched back or not?

 

We first have to check the electronic unit for check control. I don't know where it is located but I think in the trunk. All lamps in the back of the car are connected to this unit. So i think following the wiring from for example the license plate lights you should find this unit. If this unit is not in the trunk then maybe in the center console near the check panel.

If you found the unit then disconnect the two green connectors and measure the pink wire of connector J to ground.
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Yes, i think there is no problem in this area.

 

let me find it first

 

I think is on the passenger side where the feet go.Let me check

 

I went for lunch. I will look for it now. Give me 30 min

 

Yes, it is there, behind the passenger feet

 

Report: 0

 

Ok, the electronic unit is not the problem. The last check is the black connector from the check control monitor. Can you disconnect this connector? It is best to leave the electronic unit in the foot well disconnected. Please measure between ground and the pink cable of connector J.
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Ok, will do now. Give me 5 minutes
Also, just realized that the rear fog lights are not working too.

 

Done. Report: nearly 0, thats 0,12

 

Again not the cause... that's good because i suppose these units are expensive. Is the black connector in good shape? The wire just besides our shorted wire is a ground wire. I can look further this evening after 21:00.