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Position of luggage straps in Daytonas

Discussion in 'Vintage (thru 365 GTC4)' started by gcalex, Aug 3, 2020.

  1. gcalex

    gcalex Karting
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    Aug 16, 2010
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    Alex
    So my car was missing the luggage straps for the area behind the seats, and I’m trying to add them.

    Much to my surprise, however, when I pulled the carpet, from the rear bulkhead, I found no evidence of previous mounting screws, so don’t have any reference for where to position the hold-downs (the chrome bars that are screwed into the rear bulkhead, the ones the strap ends are wrapped around).

    Could someone be so kind as to measure the distance between the inner (closest to car center-line) screws of the upper hold-downs, and the distance from the floor of the lower hold-downs on their (hopefully, believed original) car?

    Also would like t know what kind of screws are used on the hold-downs.

    Thanks in advance!

    — Alex
     
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  3. TTR

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    Have you looked behind/underside of the tub ?
    There should be rectangular steel plates riveted to each area where footman loops get mounted on as the fiberglass is not strong enough by itself to hold attachment screws.

    IIRC, the upper mounting point plates may be accessible/visible from inside the trunk.

    Screws are either chrome or bright zinc plated flat blade driven countersunk oval heads for sheet metal (sorry, I don’t recall the size at the moment).
     
  4. gcalex

    gcalex Karting
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    Hi Timo,

    Hmmm... I did see a pair of plates in the "cubbly" in the trunk, but they looked like they were attached to the frame, and the rivets in them I interpreted as holding the fiberglass tub to the fame, and there were no holes for any screws to come through that plate. It sounds to me like the plates you are talking about are just stuck to the tub, without any attachment to the frame, right?

    I'll try and get under the car this evening, and see if I can find the lower plates...

    Thanks!
    Alex
     
  5. TTR

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    Alex,

    IIRC, the upper plates might be tack welded to frame structure inthe upper corners of the trunk cubbyhole.
    The lower ones are just pop-riveted (from inside the cabin) directly to fiberglass.

    I’ll see if I have time to scour through my photo files and/or provide you location measurements from any of the cars I have in the shop as I’m pretty sure all still have their footman loop screws in OEM holes, even the one I took the tub out for “complete” restoration and riveted it back in by re-aligning and utilizing all (& only) the +/-250 OEM holes, both in the frame and the tub.
     
  6. gcalex

    gcalex Karting
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    Hi Timo,

    Hmmm... if those cubby plates are the right ones, and there are no holes for screws in them, then I'm starting to wonder whether maybe my car just did not have the straps at all (which would mean that I have been unfairly thinking that the people who redid the interior were sloppy... :))

    Let me see whether I can find those lower plates before you go through too much trouble for me just yet.

    Really appreciate the help and insight!

    -- Alex
     
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  8. TTR

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    P.S. I've also seen footman loop mounting screw holes and their respective support plates totally missing each other and presumably by OEM effort (or lack there of). :rolleyes:
     
  9. gcalex

    gcalex Karting
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    Ok, I found the lower plates! But each had only one hole.

    Did a recheck of the upper plates, and did in fact find that they also had one hole each; though they were surprisingly small, and filled-in with paint (clearly my trunk has been repainted at some point).

    Very odd, as there was no evidence of the other holes, but...

    ...I took one of the strap anchors and matched it up to one of the holes, and lo-and-behold, the other hole fell right at the edge of the plate.

    The new coat of trunk paint had fill the hole to the point of being almost invisible; I probed a bit, and there it was...

    Seems likely that I'll find the same situation on the other plates.

    Very glad that I'll be able to avoid adding any random extraneous holes to my tub and frame...

    Thank Timo!
     
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  10. Red Rocket

    Red Rocket Karting

    Aug 10, 2014
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    can you post some pictures?
     
  11. gcalex

    gcalex Karting
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    Finally had a chance to get back under the car.

    Here you go!

    Images are upper and lower, respectively, both on the passenger's side (driver's side symmetric). In both pictures, I've pushed heavy copper wire through the holes, so that I can locate from inside the car (still need to source the screws to attach the anchors, so this job is on hold for the moment).

    Good thing the trans is out of my car, or I think it would have been a real challenge to get to the lower ones.

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  13. TTR

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    Glad to hear/read you found them all.
    Looking at your pictures makes me wonder if your brake system has ever been completely and thoroughly serviced/rebuilt ? If not, it might be good idea to look into it while the car dry-docked and major components (transaxle, etc ?) out.
    Is your car by chance a mid-to-late production U.S. market example ? If so, aforementioned might be even more imperative.
     
  14. gcalex

    gcalex Karting
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    Mid-production Euro.

    Pretty high mileage (either about 50k or 110k, depending on whether one thinks the odometer has already gone around once), so I would hope that the brakes have been serviced... :)

    Actually, I know that some work has been done to it, because at least all the rubber hoses were non-original.

    Nevertheless, the brakes were locking when I got the car, so I had all the calipers rebuilt, hoses changed, and the system flushed.

    Master cylinder apparently seemed to be working ok, so I opted to leave that, since I figure I'll rebuild it when I have the booster redone; currently, the booster is painted, which for some reason really annoys me on Daytonas...

    I did muse about whether there was something to do regarding those balancing valves while they were easy to get to, but I've not found much on-line about them, so I'm inclined to just leave them alone and wait to see how the brakes work before mucking with them. Particularly as the the brakes apparently bled just fine (according to my mechanic), which as I understand it, is something that might not be the case if those valves have failed.

    If something in the above sounds "misguided" to you, I'd obviously like to know; fooling with brakes generally being ill advised...
     

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