Potential electrical short on 90 TR

this sounds like a ground problem

 

Are you saying:

1) that you know everything was working correctly, the service was done, and now you have the problem you describe,

or

2) You don't know if was working correctly before the service?

 

And the 2nd picture is? Just headlights "on" (no brakes)?

I'll post some pics in the morning, but (unless your photos just don't show it) you've got a bunch of rear taillights not working. See page 94 in your OM:

For the brakes = one bulb in F & the more inboard bulb in C should illuminate brightly (your Fs look dead on both sides)

When the headlights (running lights) are "on" = the inboard bulb and outboard bulb in C should both illuminate (and both your outboard C lights don't look like they are working)

I'll warn you that getting the rear bulb holders out can be difficult, and it's easy to break the legs off of them -- so don't apply torque to the ends of the legs (apply the torque as close to the base as possible). The sockets and bulbs can also have problems (like the solder ball on the end of the bulb deforming over time and/or corrosion). Think you'll need to inspect the bulbs and socket to first make sure all the bulbs are OK and of the right type.

I'll admit that I cringed a little when you mentioned having "HID" headlights as doing a high-quality HID ballast installation is not easy (and often +12V power is pirated from a place it shouldn't be pirated). I don't think that your headlight issue has anything to do with the rear taillight problems -- but maybe might be based on how it was installed. Have you ever looked at how this was done? Any horrible "Scotch-lok" connectors or other terrible wiring modifications? I'd be more suspicious of a ballast problem for your RH headlight going out after some brief runtime (i.e., something heats up and pukes).

 

I think that the bulbs are not correct in the holder. so on one side the normal rear light is on and the other side is the brake light. shut off the light, turn on the ignition and tell a friend to sit in the car and brake. then I´m sure it is exact otherwise

 

Here are photos of how your TR rear tail lights should work for the three combinations of: 1) Brakes only, 2) Running Lights only (i.e., headlight stalk knob rotated "on", and 3) Both Brakes and Running Lights together:

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You've got some serious sorting to do...

 

That two-filament bulb for C inner (the middle of the bottom row) should be OK (even though the shape of the solder balls on the ends are a little different). I think you'll just have to try to clean up your existing bulb sockets as best you can as they are an F TR only part AFAIK (Unobtanium Supply sells reproductions of the plastic portion, but the metal bulb socket itself is reused -- and it's not easy to reassemble them well).

C outer and F both use a single filament bulb of the same overall size and base, but C outer is a low light output while F is much brighter light output. There should be some sort of wattage (W) marking on your old bulbs to use as a reference.

 

A good video showing back lights (and other) at night...on a US model.

 

Can't agree -- it's got the wrong wattage bulb (too bright) in the C outer position. The running light filament in the dual-filament C inner bulb and the running light filament in the single-filament C outer bulb should be the same (low) wattage.

 

Yeah, You are right Steve, ....but wanted to share nice looking woman also...