Power window rebuild

Hi,

Are you sure the window motor is actaully working? Both of my window motors were seized caused by window seal leaks resulting in internal rust. I took the motors apart and and used vice grips to free the bearings. I cleaned the brushes and used solvent and a wire brush to remove the rust and clean the internal surfaces. After regreasing the bearings the motors worked fine. You can test the motors on a 12V battery.

Also I found that the main cable tensioner spring located at the bottom section of the door panel has too much tension. The extra tension causes stress on the plastic pulleys and distorts the bearings. The heavy tension spring is one of several reasons why many Testarossa windows operate slow.
I sourced lower tension springs with about 60% tension of the factory springs and the lower tension springs improved the window speed.

Hope this helps,

David

 

I didn't like how high the spring tension was in mine when I rebuilt them and wondered the same, a lighter spring. Where did you source yours?

With that said, it will do no good to install new motors and reduce spring tension if you don't open up the gear boxes and dig out the rock hard petrified grease, (YEAH, THE HARD GREEN STUFF). THAT is the main reason most motors die.

Clean and re-pack the gear boxes with Redline CV Joint grease and you won't have to touch them for another 30 years or so. Lubricating TR Window Gear Boxes,
Start with Post #25, http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44288&page=2

Another way to speed up your windows to install window circuit boosters like these at Ricambi, #WINDACCEL, http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=262540

 

I sourced the window pulley tensioner springs at Reilly auto parts. They sell an assorted bag of springs. I also found a similar source at Lowe's hardware. I tried some extra weak springs just for kicks and found the windows worked even better but there was too much slack risking cable misaligment. I used medium tension springs just to play it safe.

 

Thanks

 

My passenger window did not move so dismantled per guide. The grease was not the problem, but there was rust on the metal gear shaft where it exited the back side. It was frozen and I had to take a punch to drive out the shaft to Clean it up with 400 & 1200 emery cloth. Tested motor and luckily was not burned up. Greased, assembled and ready the put door back together when I get some styrofoam to wedge the wires with.

Jim
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Guys,

I have a 1990 Testarossa (UK RHD car) and experienced a situation where the passenger window was fully wound down one day but I had no joy trying to wind it back up. I tried the old trick of tapping the door while the switch was in the up position in case of a lose connection - this trick had previously worked on the drivers side but no joy this time. I then did the usual check of fuses and relay but all looked ok.

So I thought I'd open up the door to check things out. The window had previously been running really slow anyway so I thought I'd see what things were looking like internally. Having had the car nearly 10 years I was also curious as to whether there were any rust issues inside the door.

As JRBaldwin encountered, grease did not appear to be the problem in the gear assembley - the consistency of the grease in the gearing looked fine. However, when you turn the window regulator over you see a rusty central gear shaft (see picture).

Anyway, at this point in the diagnosis I decided to try the switch as the motor was still connected to see if there was any movement under no tension. What I found was that the motor did turn when you hit the down switch but did not turn when you hit the up switch. Now I'm thinking that maybe the switch is playing up so I might try it by swapping it with the drivers window switch tomorrow. I am assuming of course that the switches are interchangeable although what is worrying is that they are different part numbers. I'll have to inspect them tomorrow for any obvious differences. Do the switches come out of the central console easily by the way as I've never had to take one out?

The rusty gear shaft is also a concern so I may try and clean that out but first things first in that I want to see if the switch proves that the motor still rotates in both directions.

Any other ideas/suggestions, please shout.

Thanks, Dhanj
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I'd look closer at the wiring or the switch. The switches are interchangeable with the only difference being the pictograph/icon depicting the window. I don't think rust is your major issue because a) the window rolled down, and b) that gear is pressed through a plastic backing plate (non-metallic) so it's unlikely the gear is so rusted it won't turn. As far as you are now, clean, de-rust, lube and reassemble but check your wiring closely.

I recently did same on my passenger motor using the repair threads you have looked at, my only difference was my motor wiring was factory color coded with bands at the ends of each connector. On my passenger door, yellow connected to blue on one wire and opposite on the other (motor wires are polarized). With blue to blue and yellow to yellow, the motor ran in the opposite direction ("up" on switch moved the window down). I suggest you temp hook the wires up opposite as you disconnected and see if the motor now works in the opposite direction--if so, motor is good and either the blue or yellow wiring between the motor and switch is suspect. My gear shaft also had slight rust, but again, with the bracket being plastic rust should not cause the problem you are seeing. Good luck and let us know what you find.
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Many thanks Tim - That's great advice.

I've got plenty of time to complete the job and a big garage to work in so hopefully I'll get it right. I'm potentially looking to put those window accelerators in too.

In hindsight, I should have just tried swapping the switch first before opening the door card but at least I've got the kick up the a$$ that I needed to finally address these slow windows!

I'll let you know I get on.

 

Just as information: in the 512TR and 512M, this system is completely changed to a modern version.

Never more a mess like this ...

Thanx for sharing these pictures and lessons; other Testa drivers will surely benefit from this all.
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Vince, how is the car window now ?

Did you find time to repair it ?

 

Right you are, after the season, during the winterime we have indeed plenty of time ...

 

A quick update on my situation. The switch was the problem. They prise out pretty easily out of the centre console/panel - I managed it just with my fingers and nails. I managed to source some used replacements and I've also managed to take apart the old switch and repair it to keep as a spare.

Just a case of cleaning things up and reassembling the window now (and maybe trying those window accelerators). No easy task I'm sure but I'll be taking my time.

 

Can you post pics please ??

 

I forgot to add that Tim was right. i.e. because the rusted shaft is pressed through a plastic plate, it hadn't seized up at all - in fact I don't think the rust you saw in my picture was really causing much of a problem (in my case anyway). I did clean up the rust of course and lubed it up nonetheless.

I will try and post some further pics too.

 

Does anyone know if it is possibe to convert the TR windown to the 512 upgrade?

 

long time no posting here, so nobody has problem with slow or not working windows?

today I decided to do some work again on my competition. since more than 6 years the window on the passenger side is not moving right anymore. so I put out the complete motor with the cable and dismanteled all. the original grease inside has been sticky like candle wax. so I cleaned all, and it was hard to remove all this old grease, put new grease in and put all together again. not such a big problem as I thaught before I started. but then I wanted to move the window down and up. down was no problem, fast as never before, but up was a problem, also fast, but about 5 cm before the top it stopped. so down again and up - the same. then I remembered that I took all out when the window has been closed. so I loosened again the 2 srews, put the winodw about 7 cm up and fastened the screws again. also adjusted the window so, that when it is nearly closed that the top end of the window is parallel to the window frame. to test this always I took a second battery and put the wires directly to + and -
after this all adjustment I tried again and I was surprised because the window was moving hard to go down and also slow again to move up. so all adjsutment loosen again and try again. same result. then I had the idea: nearly empty battery. so I took an other one, and working all perfect.

tomorrow I will do the driver side.

this only for all, when you fix some have a look also if all other parts are ok. this nealy empty battery cost me about 1,5 hours senseless work

 

It may be clear to all readers here why this system was changed in the 512TR/M .....

And YES, this system can be converted to Testarossa's ...