one lap of Pacific Raceways in a 360 CH http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=PR-1-34-64 (finally a great upload service)
Wow you are fast! I wouldn't even do the track that fast on my motorcycle. I'd like to try though.... But thanks for posting the video, you sure made me nervous. Mike
Great lap - thanks for posting. That 360 CS really gets out of turn 2 well. The video quality is great as well - what did you use? thx John
Nice vid -- man that f1 downshifts nice -- I've been trying to get the rhythm just right out of the manual box with heel/toe, but it's hard to compete with a computer.
Jesus!!! That was awesome. Great throttlin'. I Don't think my old 360 six speed could quite rip that track fast..LOL . Great video thanks for posting!!! Mike
I run a RaceCam with a Sony Digital 8 Video Recorder http://www.racecam.com/ great system picture quality suffered a little last week @ Thunderhill 110F http://www.putfile.com/media.php?n=TH-2-12
Any ideas of what your entry speed into T1 was? Wish I had a stop watch laying around to time that lap.
140mph but I lift in most cases before T1 turn-in and go onto throttle again after speed is recorded with my DL1 data logger, i.e. GPS based speed; tach shows +8-10mph lap is a 1:34:64 the CS brakes are much better they offer lap after lap the same feel the CH brakes feel soft after a few hot laps the comparison however is problematic I do consistent 1:40s at PR with the CS and 1:34s with the CH with the CS I simply would destroy the tires in half a lap day - with the CH rotors/pads are the problem
Thank you SO much for posting that. I want to get a Challenge when I can, so I'm trying to accrue as much info on them as possible. Your post made my day! Thanks again!
Nice circuit Thomas. I can't believe you're having brake problems with your 360C though.... That's the cars strongest feature. (once the dreadful DS3000/smooth discs have been ditched) Try using Brembo race fluid, Brembo/Girodisc 8 groove or "squiggle" Brembo discs, and Use PFC 93 (best), 97, 01 or 03 Pads front, and Pagid RS14B or 4-4 rear and it'll go all day and stop shorter than ANYTHING. Pads will last a good 4-6 hours of really heavy track use, up to 10-12 hours on "average" tracks. Also, do you use your on board Marelli data that comes as std with the car? You ideally need the (expensive) pit lane transmitter, (which are the same for all 360C by the way, so a group buy would be easier) but so long as you have the software that also comes with the car loaded into your laptop, you can get it all and should use it... it's really useful and informative.... and free!
Couple of tiny points I noticed too... it's hard to tell but I think you run with your cooling fans switched on? If this is the case the car runs hotter like this, as they stall the air flow, they should only be used in pit lane ideally. Worth about 3-5 degrees c. Also, I cant see the dash well, so I couldn't see if the shift light was coming on... it should come on at 8250rpm. It seemed like you were short shifting a bit... deliberate maybe? And the bumps unsettle it a lot... adjustable shocks needed!!, And a rear wing!!
Thanks Phil for your feedback I have so far kept the car Ferrari Challenge legal it is maintained by the dealer FoS and they are doing a great job babysitting it so its hard for me to go aftermarket Most of the problems I have are caused by material transfer from pad to rotor and resulting vibrations I am very careful not to use the brakes when I am standing and I do cool down laps religiously I stopped using the Marelli logger since download of data takes so long and the analysis software is such a hassle not to speak about the $4K lap beacon I prefer the DL1 with is CF card and the race-technology analysis software it is as simple as removing the cad from the DL1 and plugging it into the PC I have wired the DL1 into the Challenge harness and log RPM, wheel speed, brake signal etc. I have defined formulas for some of the stuff I want to track and canned reports so after a fast run I can do simple A/B comparison of sectors etc. cant get easier than that The DL1 has also video overlay capabilities I can single step through turns and straights and look at all the parameters this has helped a lot to move my times cant get better than that I looked into upgrading the Marelli uDAS to the professional system as well as the PCMCA or LAN interface but I got a sticker shock thanks also for the brake info - this is helpful
it makes sense - I thought I did see some cooler temp with the fan on - Thunder<hell> was over 105F and oil went above 110F so I thought I give the car all help I could get usually it is off yes - I was backing off in Thunderhill a.) because of the heat and b.) vibrations under braking however I never got the shift light to work so it will not light up above a specific RPM as far as I remember I was told that the alert/parameter is used to suppress warnings below a specific RPM at minimum I caused some confusion when I played with the setup problem is when I am at the racetrack I rather drive than fiddle with the computer Yes I have to be very careful with my line upsets the car a lot my tech said that the CH run on the bumper stops a lot I agree adjustable would be a blast Not sure if I go the GT & wing route my guess is that I can get the car down to 1:33s at PR with new tires & no traffic (currently I run 1:34s) the wing should be good for 1-2s - unfortunately P GT3 Cups do 1:32s and an RSR does 1:30s I love the way the Challenge drives and tracks the front tires but the Cup cars make me think I hope Ferrari has been as single minded with the 430 CH as P with the cup car and taken all the junk such as the wiring harness and interior parts out - we will see
Interesting Thomas. I'm no data gura but I can use it very easily after I got a data guru to set my lap top up for me. Takes only seconds to download a session and analysis is very easy. But so long as you're getting it one way it's all good. Brakes... sounds like they're getting too hot... you're aware of the additional cooling plates availabe as legitimate challenge series parts? They're little carbon fibre plates that fit on to the normal lower duct mount and extend forwards to catch more of the air that exits the front diffuser outlet. Also, make sure the ducts are not blocked with rubber/debris.. pull the disc and calipers off and clean it all out. I run mesh on the inlet to the hub duct, not the lower scoop. This keeps good air inlet but does need cleaning regularly. The fastest way around a smooth track is to run on the bump stops... but if you're spending time on a bumpy track waiting for the car to settle, you you should raise it and/or change the springs and/or bump stops. I've seen in car footage of "my" cars that are on the gas WAY earlier than you. I'm sure you've got heaps of time up your sleeve if you can extract it. Wing... I think the current GT wing is too big for 360C. I tried it and it's too draggy with only 400BHP. The year 2000 GT wing is shallower and narrower, and works well enough to gain lap time. Front downforce can be had with a GT style bumper for sure... Both easy to bolt on and off if you need to stay "challenge" legal too.
>additional cooling plates availabe as legitimate challenge series parts Yes I remember having seen the plates in the parts catalog Ill look into it >run mesh on the inlet to the hub duct, not the lower scoop. Interesting we added mesh to the lower scoop inlet are you saying that destroys airflow mhh but woulnt all the rubber stuff start to block the mesh in your way of doing things >seen in car footage of "my" cars that are on the gas WAY earlier than you I have the fast in disease I assume I tend to come in too hot and have to scrub off speed before I can go onto throttle :-( While we are at it at that time I had the stiffer anti-roll bar in, which made the car push like a pig in T8 of PR I even had to introduce the car into a slide to get around the folks I am working with hated that (I loved it) people recommended the stiffer bar but I have gone back what is your experience? >2000 GT wing is shallower and narrower Who fabricates it? Thanks for all the advice/feedback
Yes, with mesh at the hub inlet it can block quickly... but once a day (300km?) is usually ok to clean it out. The front anti roll bar is a fairly big change.. the big one is 47% stiffer than the small one. Plus.. they're not always made perfectly so when you change them it's important to know that the drop links are neutralised (ie no preload in the bar) You should consider playing with the spring combinations available too. You can do what you like with the Ferrari ones... Running the soft fronts in the rear does wonders for traction for example..... The 2000GT wing is made by Michelotto... but I have a HK based contact with excellent replicas commisioned by the Race team in Melbourne. Others are available too of course.
