Prep for engine install 308GT4

I consider it much easier to install bell housing after installation. I lift by front bank only and when about 1/2 way in lift and bolt on 5/8 manifold. I also leave mounts bolted to engine.

 

Just a couple comments, I don't like the way that purple strap is over the crank case vent cross over tube in the first post.

Rifledriver: Those load straps are just using the carb inlets as lift support? Or are they attached to something else?

Thanks,
Doug

 

Its not a coolant tube, its an oil breather tube and not at a lifting angle that will hurt it.
Strap on carb inlets????? Are we looking at same picture? They are nowhere near carb inlets. They wrap around circumference of cylinder heads in his picture. If you are talking about mine A. Its a 328 engine and has no carbs. And in any event except for the manifolds there is no induction system.

Are you an alarmist looking for something wrong or looking at different pictures than the rest of us?

 

I am not an alarmist, I just see the strap in the first pic possibly putting unwanted pressure on the vent tube, which i corrected as soon as I looked at my post.

And yes, I am referring to your pic, I can't see what those load binder strap are under/connected to to hoist that 328 motor. Thats what i was asking.

I can't tell at a glance a 328 motor vs 308 motor, Oh Mighty One.

Doug

 

would lose the driveshafts. seriously

 

Working around them is about as much trouble as removal.

 

Ive never had trouble with mine, maybe some cars have nasty hex bolts

 

And I have never had trouble leaving them in place.
I hate to take cars apart for the sake of it.

Everything I take off needlessly I have to put back on.

 

True but out of the way is out of the way.

 

Its really clear you have never done this professionally. Its why do it yourselfers take 10 hours for a 2 hour job.

 

We also take time to clean and paint and detail everything before it goes back in, which is one reason it takes us longer. i doubt most customers want to pay $150/hr or whatever the going rate is, to detail the CV joint boot clamps and other parts that are accessible..

The Op has obviously done a LOT of detail work in that engine bay.

Doug

 

if you say so thx

 

The exhaust ports are the quick giveaway. 4V are oval, 2V are round. So could be a 308QV, or statistically speaking, more likely to be a 328.

 

THIS IS THE WAY. I’m sure Brian has done this hundreds of not thousands of times


I only might add that aside from 5-8 bank manifold bolting (done when that bank is just past the gutter), see what else electrically you can get hooked up as there’s a touch more room when it’s up like that. And yes, no drive shafts

 

I have seen photos of these engines being installed with the front manifold installed a/C compressor in place (yes..I attempted that one..I won't do it again) and bell housing installed. The photos indicated they lifted by the rear bank..tilting the diff housing straight up..then angled into the car basicly a complete assembly accept the rear maniolf. Brian..have you ever attempted to install one that way? I may the next time I have one out..

 

When I installed my motor last year, the headers were resting in the chassis, bell housing and transfer gears installed, carbs, starter and alternator. Wrapped a strap around the first bank and dropped it straight down. I doubt it took 15 minutes, 3 guys, one operating the crane and one on each side of the motor.

 

Engines were installed by factory completely assembled except for the manifolds just off the dyno. They had a device on the overhead crane that could electrically twist and turn the motor every which way and had a crew of several people doing it.

In the real world we never had that and shops expected a single individual to be able to do it. It evolved to what I had in the photo from the experiences of hundreds of experienced Ferrari mechanics by about 1976.

 

I had the standoffs or spacers in place and lowered the motor mounts directly on top.