One thing to remember is that an effective a/c system is also a dehumidifier. In other words, when it's cold and rainy outside it's warm and dry inside. And vise versa
Thanks for the above .. good point on a/c and excellent clip on fuel hose replacements- all my fuel hoses are definitely going to be done . New clutch slave cylinder hose was delivered .. My hose shop who manufacture all types of hydraulic hoses/brake lines etc have made up a modern equivalent ..looks completely different from the 30+ year original , but they assure me its the business ... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I bought my 86 3.2 about 30 months ago and have my own idiosyncratic approaches. First, the starter wiring is weak and I would buy the WR-1 Bosch intermediate solenoid for $25 and simply remove the issue. In addition, I noticed the cooling system would do justice to a Light Water Nuclear Reactor. So I switched to 60/40 glycol mixture and depressurized the system. In my vehicle it has been flawless. Twelve thousand miles, 90F at 7,000 rpm and not added a single ounce. Even put in a few ounces of bars leak/lub. In addition I always add either 8 ounces of synthetic 2 cycle oil or ordinary Marvel Mystery oil to the gas. We have mechanical fuel injection and old hoses that might not like alcohol gas. A light coating of top oil might not hurt anything. No smoke, smell or any noticeable driveability problems. If the car has any sort of stumble on light throttle acceleration from, for instance, 3,000 rpms test the injector seals. Simply let the car idle and spritz some cold start fluid or even WD-40 onto the top of the rubber seals. If the idle changes at all you can do two things. I simply put a few drops of power steering stop leak on them to soften up the rubber. Worked for me. Or you can replace the offending seals. I would never warm up the car at idle. The K-Jets are non-sequential and spritzing cold fuel on closed valves can add carbon. I always drive away between 2,000 and 3,000 rpm. Incidentally, if you have any of the above stumbling that could also indicate carbon build up. The carbon absorbs cold fuel and releases it in hesitant ways. I used lots and lots of full fuel system cleaners. Some people recommend against Techron but don't know exactly why. I used every single kind I could find for about a year. My car was seriously carboned up and in conjunction with the cleaners did lots of full throttle runs up to 5,000 or 6,000 rpms - and plenty of 7,000 hard runs. Did it make any difference. BIG TIME. I have a back-country up hill road that approximates time/speed of a 1/8 mile drag strip. When I first got the care it would do 80 mph. Now it does 90 mph. THAT IS HUGE. I do not recommend continuous running at 7,000 rpms in 90F. I scattered a clutch plate. I believe it scattered because I used inferior Alpha clutch hydraulics. Don't use inferior Alpha clutch hydraulics. They may work at parade speeds as mine did. But under the severe use I just described I suspect parasytic harmonic surges that destroyed both Alpha master and slave cylinders AND the clutch plate all at one fell swoop. In this regard I recommend finding and cultivating a talented local mechanic. In my case I live in the M. Georgia Mountains where we have some NASCAR and Hot Rod guys. My local wrench worked with me an supercharging my Mark VII and overhauling my 1965 Corvair Monza Convertible. I took the Mondial to him for mechanical evaluation of what he could do. He said "you have got to be kidding me!" Then I scattered the clutch. We have lots of DIY print outs available and I took the clutch to him and said can you do that? He said yeah and had a gas doing it. Dragged me under the car later to show me the single casting engine tranny and simply stated "These guys are geniuses!" Then asked if he could change my cam belts. Laste week he replaced all my CV joints, installed a used oil cooler with custom mounting, installed new rotors, pads, and lubed the front wheel bearings. [That last one was apparently a real bear]. That bearing is a giant ball bearing monstrosity worthy of a Mack Truck. Not readily apparent how to reassemble. Its designed for continuous high speed high g force loads and is nothing like anything else. So I have serious local maintenance support. I pay him well but we both cringe what a shop job might cost down in Atlanta. Well, that's my story and if I think of anything else will let you know. All of these matters are my own concoctions and do not offer any warranty on any of it. However, after 12,000 vigorous miles in Ferrari Heaven [N, Georgia Mountains] I am ready to move on the the next 12,000 miles. I will soon be on my third set of tires! GOOD LUCK. There is not a better Ferrari for the purpose. The 3.2 is powerful enough, reliable enough and easy enough to fix. More or less!
She is now ..... RUNNING !!!! Well when i say running - not on all cylinders . We have carried out a lot of pre start checks/changes . We are totally confident that we have correct spark at all 8 cylinders and are certain that it is fuel related .... Fuel pressure is excellent from the pump (not measured) but we are not convinced that we are getting full fuel pressure to some of the injectors . Have removed the plugs and at least one appeared dry . There are no fuel leaks so we are going to check for any fuel restriction in the feed lines from the metering unit . There also appears to be slow reaction of the needle unit within the metering unit - its an easy fix , but it means removing the unit . Q.. am i correct in assuming the injectors operate at 60psi ?? Plenty of work this weekend and hopefully the problem will be solved .. Not surprised that we are having a few issues , but it is a little frustrating .... but as i said before Progress is being made !!!!
Further work carried out yesterday and we now have her running on 6 cylinders . Problem is definitely fuel related , so we are continuing today to work on checking fuel lines/injectors etc . Maybe 8 cylinders by the end of the day .. I can report that the oil pressure is a steady 85psi ...
Thanks Alden .. i had found that out . I checked the plug and its all ok ; no burning signs . I am going to remove the a/c , and will look to fit a secondary relay for the fuel pump once i have the car on the road .
Well folks .... she is now running on 8 cylinders and sounds exceptionally sweeeeeeet !!!!!! We found that there were two blocked injectors . After cleaning and reftting , the engine just purred into life . So the heart is now fully ticking after approx 4 years of being idle .... Oil pressure is a steady 85psi , the exhaust smoke is normal and there appears to be no exhaust leaks - all good news . . Cam covers replaced , water hoses reconnected . Cooling system needs filling . All lights now working correctly . A very good weekend .... Hopefully brakes will be worked on this week as well as a few minor checks ,and then we can see if we can get her rolling ..... Big smiles all round .
Looks nice and I see only advantages the lines are less in weight and more flexible then the old ones due to the thickness. Great work chap! Not necessarily fuel, it can also be the extenders that connect to your spark plugs. The ceramic insulator should be clean if this has a black burn pattern like a ray of lighting sort of speak you will need a new extender. If it is fuel pull the injectors and start it to see if something comes out. Hang them in plastic 0.5 Ltr bottles For the extender part it is one of those things of which I replaced since they do tend to go bad. Consider it a one time service. Kept the old for spares if needed.
Thanks MVT .... it looks like you were writing the same time as my last report ( extenders have been changed by the way ) . my baby is now purring !!
Thanks MVT .... it looks like you were writing the same time as me for my last report ... ( extenders have been changed by the way ) . my baby is now purring !!
Well folks , here's the latest .. Engine running wonderfully , absolutely purring ; idling nicely around 1000 RPM . . Cooling system filled ( without antifreeze at the moment ) and being run to full operating temperature a couple of times this week to confirm there are no leaks and that fan is kicking in .. once i am happy alls well , antifreeze will be added .. Clutch slave cylinder hose fitted and system fluid replaced and bled .. operation checked and we have decent clutch pressure at the pedal and there appears to be good slave cylinder operation .. Rear wheels jacked up and engine started - 1st gear selected and engaging ok without any nasties and wheels turning, same in other gears . Gear selection although no gear crunch is VERY stiff and we believe this is down to the selectors lack of use . We have not selected any gears at the moment with wheels on the floor , as we dont want to put any unwanted stress on the synchros until we know everything is good . Plan of attack next is to re-bleed the clutch and then work on gear selection stiffness - it may get better with use ( must remember the car has not turned any wheels for approx 10 years ) , so will see what happens on this one .. MOT getting closer , so making sure all other test points are good before the test .. Exhaust emmision looks good and there are no system leaks Horn is being replaced as operation poor Replacement tyre to be fitted to one wheel ( i have a very good spare ) All lights being rechecked Hopefuly things will go well with the gearbox operation and then we can roadtest ... Fingers crossed that this will happen this coming week ..
Nice! I know this is probably a bit of work, but it would be great if you could document your build on this thread with pics, videos etc...I'm sure many would enjoy that. Anyways, keep up the good work
Cheers and point noted.. At the moment it's just basic mechanical/electrical work which has been covered many times in the past on the forum . My plan was always to start off a more photo based thread once the car has passed its MOT and is roadworthy.... then the photos to be included for the nice bits - interior leather cleaning/re colour , wheel refurbishment , detail polishing , bodywork issues etc etc..... really looking forward to that . Getting excited now ...
Had a setback today ... but nothing that cannot be solved (hopefully) The clutch system has been re bled quite a few times this week, and we have full travel of the cylinder arm, but still the gear selection is very stiff . With the wheels off the ground we can engage gears , but once the wheels have been grounded, gear selection is virtually impossible . What we think has happened, is that when i picked the car up, we found that the clutch slave cylinder arm was stuck out- thus the clutch was disengaged ( must have been for years ) . We suspect that this has caused failure/damage/weakness of the pressure plate fingers ..... its the only explanation that we can think of . Anyway , this coming weekend we are going to remove the clutch pressure plate/friction plate/release bearing for inspection .. I have ordered a new 3 piece clutch kit , and will fit this what ever we find with the old clutch parts .. Has anyone had a similar problem ? Its a setback , but looking forward to solving the problem ... wish me luck !!!!!
I am having a deja vu when I read your post When bought my Mondi and drove her home. I could not select gears anymore at the last traffic light. I was lucky that I only was traveling highways and never needed to shift down to my home until the last corners. Later that week I came to notice that it was always happening after 50miles (when the trans/engine was on operation temp). It took me weeks to figure out what the issue was. Your issue is a bit different, but the same parts to check are involved here as well I had 4 issues: - I had not an original clutch slave cylinder, but a Fiat one. The diameter of the piston was more then 20mm, which is too much. - The fork that goes in the piston, which pushes the arm was shortened. - When I took of the bell housing the clutch was not really worn but replaced it anyway, but to my horror the flywheel was cracked 5mm deep. - The last thing I found was an internal leak of the master cylinder. So here it goes: - Check the diameter of the piston of the clutch slave cylinder. I believe it should be somewhere around 1.6mm (need to look it up) - Clutch worn out (most likely my first hunch though) - Check the master slave cylinder for at least external leaks. Count my words though you will need a rebuild sooner or later, since rubber simply does not have a life span of 30years with Dot4. FYI, Fiat seals/cups have the right diameter. A rebuild will not cost more then 10 pounds - Well the fork.. it is difficult to check it has been shortened, but if you do not have the right clutch slave cylinder, people will do crazy things I guess. I made an adjustable one. You will need to have at least a travel of 2cm to push the arm down to release the clutch. If you do not have that, then you might have an in/external leak of the master cylinder or the piston has the wrong diameter, assuming you have bleed the system properly. Ps. The shifting when cold is always a bit stif, but on operation temp it should slice like butter. Let us know what you find! HTH Tijn Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks for the reply Tijn , very interesting ... I have fitted a new correct slave cylinder, and we are getting full travel of the arm/fork , so that would probably rule out the master cylinder .. I have ordered a new complete clutch kit ready to install once we remove the old one . The strip down begins this weekend and looking forward to see what we find . Will keep you updated ....
You will need some o-rings and a new lock ring nut Additionally, if you do not have one, a RNT-45 ring nut tool. 105137 - Lower gear ring nut 103775 - Bell house seal o-ring 104214 - Bell house seal o-ring 114947 - Bell house seal o-ring RNT-45 ring nut removal tool (superformance or hill engineering)
Just to put some pictures of the parts needed, if you do not have it already of course. Would be bummer if you could not continue in the weekend. Yellow circles are the o-rings needed and a pic of the transfer case of the ring nut. Personally I have replaced the seal under the primary shaft and cleaned it as well while I had it open anyway. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Same here... http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/mondial/352955-replacing-clutch-slave-have-dilemma-two.html
