Purchasing a F355. Your thoughts?

Shurik355 · Apr 25, 2019

carnutdallas said: ↑

How do you guys ever buy anything? Just asking? All cars need something or nothing. I decide based on the phone call and the person I am dealing with. This particular car, I did not like the seller - south Florida dealer who really knows nothing about these cars. The owner is on here and seems great. I advised him to keep the car, but he apparently has not.

They are not complicated and not overly expensive in reality. I know that people get leveraged out of there money pretty easily in the 355 world. Sometimes with a lot of unnecessary repairs, some desperately needed. Most of these cars are pretty sorted.

All the best with the car. Buy it and ship it. About $1500 roughly to you in OK enclosed. There is a decent 355 tech near Tulsa if he is still in business. You have Norwoods Auto Italia in Addison area of Dallas. James and Michael are excellent. Just drive it. That is important.

I fear the PPI because they break crap. They over analyze. Over charge and really can’t lay hands on it and know the future. Yes a compression/leak down does provide some data, but if the car runs poorly, low on power and smokes, then you already have your answer.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I was quoted to ship the car with the enclosed trailer for $1750. That's the dealer price that was quoted to me. Said that this shipping he is not going to make any kind of profit on it, but who knows.

Ferrarium · Apr 25, 2019

Shurik355 said: ↑

Man guys! thanks for the responses! The 355 community here is awesome and helpful when coming down to these kind of things. Lots of great tips and help!
Click to expand...

OK now lots of 348 guys responded too.... While were at it just get a 348. Yes they are better.

tres55 · Apr 25, 2019

carnutdallas said: ↑

Should have bought it

Maybe the test were performed poorly? Could have maybe lived with it till next major and then like you kind of said - do it all. I look at all cars with 3 parts in mind - exterior, interior and mechanicals. Then I add options. Has of two of the three in any combination and then I look at options and add bonus points for that. I look at the money and if two of the three meet my money criteria, I buy and address the weak link accordingly and on my time and budget. Rarely fails me. I have enjoyed hundreds of cars at very little “cost.”

I only do cars and I am limited with abilities outside of that. No gardening, little to no hunting, no boats.....just cars. I have taken up bourbon as a new “release”

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

It was my first Ferrari and I was deathly afraid of the horror story repair bills but in hindsight it would've been the perfect car with another $20-25k invested.

What happened was the valve guides were shot and the owner just took it to a random import tuner shop to get the repair done. When I looked at the invoice for the repair work I googled the company and noticed it had some not so positive reviews online...at that point I paid for a full inspection with compression and leak down and the variations were too much for my liking.

I ended up buying a high miler with records from day one and maintained with no expenses spared. I've enjoyed the crap out of the car but now that I don't drive as much I wouldn't mind selling it to fund a lower mile example that I can take for a spin here and there as I don't have as much leisure time these days.

Robb · Apr 26, 2019

Read this first...

Robb

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/beware-of-95-f355-red-on-black-miami.599147/

Ferrarium · Apr 26, 2019

Older but may be useful for others looking. http://lists.ferrarilist.com/pipermail/ferrari/pdf00001.pdf

Awesome find Robb.... FWIW I am skeptical of all Ferrari's at Joes car lot type places, there is always a story on how they go it. Authorized Dealers, legitimate known dealers (like Merlin) and private sale for me. I'd gamble on BAT with a known seller before no name car lots or grandiose names lots like BHCC of which there is A LOT of these in Florida btw.

kenneyd · Apr 26, 2019

I've bought a lot of cars, many sight unseen, but I would never buy a 355 without seeing it in person.

I think your best bet is to fly out here and rent a trailer to bring it home or purchase in person and arrange shipping.
I wouldn't drive it back that far. There are always surprises, even from the "perfect" one's, I found out my wipers didn't work on my 3-hour drive back home. It was more humorous, since the previous owner had never used them either lol

carnutdallas · Apr 26, 2019

Robb said: ↑

Read this first...

Robb

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/beware-of-95-f355-red-on-black-miami.599147/
Click to expand...

Exactly!!! Not surprised.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Rossocorsa1 · Apr 26, 2019

I sent you a PM

J. Salmon · Apr 26, 2019

THAT was a close call.
I did buy my 355 sight unseen, but all parties were known entities. Ugh, that listing is criminal.

paulchua · Apr 26, 2019

Ferrarium said: ↑

Valid concern. I would have comp/leak down done with pictures of the gauges as evidence. If that passes I would go down and do the PPI. It mostly stuff like check turn signal, check brake lights, check cigarette lighter, inspect body panel alignment etc then test drive and this check list. Not necessarily in that order.

Courtesy of http://www.my348.com/

Prelude - you want a clean title and a professional pre-purchase inspection that includes a "leak down" test (in which **you** personally listen along with your mechanic for any sounds of leaks during the test). Also, keep in mind that in many states you will be held responsible for any unpaid license fees (so make certain that the 348 has a current in-state license plate in the state in which it is being sold) as well as any unpaid sales taxes of any prior owners (so make certain that the 348 is correctly titled in the state in which it is being sold).

Passing off a high mileage car as a low mileage version (disconnected odometers are common on leased cars with strict mileage limits, then reconnected prior to turning back in to the leasing company)...using a Duplicate Title to hide a salvaged vehicle...rolling back the mileage, etc.

Things to look for:

1. Does she start instantly

2. Does the engine knock

3. Does she rattle or shake when driving above 60mph

4. Does the transmission have a major grinding sound when shifting up
through the gears (don't try a hard downshift, that's a different story)

5. Do all of the headlights, blinkers, brake-lights, fog-lights, parking
lights work and does the horn honk

6. Do both of the power windows and door locks work

7. Any vibrations in the steering wheel while driving, or secondly, is the steering wheel loose or tight?

8. Are the tips of the exhaust pipes coated black or gray (any visible holes
in exhaust pipes)

9. Any obvious paint burns/fade, rust, or clearly bent frame

10. Can the car turn in a slow-speed circle, with the steering wheel turned
all the way to max left, then another circle with the steering wheel max
right, without hearing tire scraping, loud knocks, or having bad steering
wheel vibrations

11. Air conditioning blows cold

12. Anti-lock brakes prevent the tires from locking in a quick stop (say,
from 25 mph to 0)

13. Top goes up and doesn't leak (canvas goes **outside** of black metal bars on sides)

14. Top goes down and the "boot" snaps correctly into place over it

15. Passenger and driver doors open and close tightly, with no squeaks,
rattles, or hesitation. With doors open, do you see any obvious breaks or burns in the wiring harness that runs from the car into the doors?

16. Front trunk opens and closes normally (simply drop it with no added pressure besides its own weight), and applying water to the outside when it's closed doesn't cause leaks inside

17. Rear engine vent cover opens and closes easily

18. Car tracks reasonably straight when you remove hands from steering wheel

19. Car goes into reverse with only minor effort (you may have to push down on the gearshift lever, that's by design)

20. Emergency brake holds car when parked and gear-shift is in neutral

21. Car idles below 1100 rpm, and idles reasonably smoothly (revs easily, puts smile on face)

22. no obvious signs of oil leaks below the engine on the pavement or in the engine compartment

23. no overpowering aroma of fire inside the cockpit

24. no noticeable smell of gasoline

25. radio and speakers function without large-scale hisses or pops

26. no visible smoke beneath the car or in the engine compartment when idling

27. is there a functioning car alarm (is it factory or aftermarket)

28. VIN plate in door-jamb and engine compartment is visible and unscratched and matches the number advertised

29. Front windshield is uncracked and seals appear tight around it

30. power mirrors adjust as expected

31. heater works as expected

32. Any loans against the title, any "duplicate" title history via autocheck.com, any stolen/salvage title history, is the car currently registered and tagged with a correct license plate in its current state/province

33. Open up the radiator and look for corrosion just inside the overfill tank. Sludge in the radiator tank can be a sign of a blown headgasket. Have a quickstop oil change place show you the transmission plug so that you can see if it has many metal fragments on it (i.e. disintegrating tranny or not). See if you have a Ferrari Purflex or high-end Wix oil filter with the date of installation/oil change written on it, or if the prior owner was a cheapskate (e.g. a Fram paper filter). Did the prior owner use a thick oil such as a 20-w50 to hide oil leaks, or do you have a decent synthetic (e.g. 5w-40) in the car?

34. When you first turn the ignition key to "run" (not "Start"), do you temporarily see both Check Engine (non-Euro cars) and both Slow Down lights? This is important, because if those bulbs have been removed or replaced with dead bulbs, engine trouble computer codes are probably being hidden from you. Do you see the ABS light and the BRAKE light? Do these lights turn off within 1 minute of starting the car?

35. Go drive the car. Brake slowly. Do you feel any vibrations? Does the car pull left or right while braking? Repeat this step (to warm up the brakes).

36. Can you shift smoothly into 2nd gear without grinding or clunking?

37. Is the acceleration smooth? Now brake hard. Vibrations? Pulling? ABS engaged?

38. Has the oil temp risen to the 1/4 mark during this drive? When it gets there, kill the engine (did you hear a loud "box of rocks" metallic clanking noise when you turned the engine off). You want to wait about 10 minutes to see if it will start up again when hot, so kill time by checking the exterior of the car, under the front and rear hoods, etc. OK, time has passed. Does it now start right up again when hot? This is important. Did you hear a loud "box of rocks" metallic clanking noise when starting the hot engine (this is an early sign of the flywheel needing to be repacked with grease...not terribly expensive to do, can even be done yourself, but good to know)?

39. Go idle the car or drive in traffic for 20 minutes. Do the oil and water temperatures both stay at or below their 1/2 way marks, or does the car overheat?

40. After all of the above, will she start up *again* easily, or is the battery "dead"

41. Now look under the rear engine deck at the catalytic converters. Are either of them glowing red?

42. Are all of the rubber CV boots (near wheels, on axles) intact, or do they have a split, crack, or hole? When driving slowly next to a wall, do you hear metallic bearing noises from your wheels?

43. Does the car have a reasonable paper trail for its documented service history?

44. Does the seller have all 3 original Factory keys (black, fold in half)?

45. Examine the shock/suspension set up (most 348 shocks need rebuilding for around $400 or all new shocks for $1,600).

46. Examine the doors/rockers for rust (typically on the bolts).

47. The car should have all service records *after* the last "Major Service." If it hasn't had a cam belt change in over 5 years or 30K miles then budget $4-6KUSD short term because you'll have to have the cam belt changed.

48. Try the climate control buttons; it's $2k and up if they don't work (Freon conversion alone is $300 once it's opened).

49. Look at the front airdam from underneath (Corners especially) for holes, bondo, skidplates and the like. Look under the side rails as well for hard bottoming out. Thanks, SeaBayR

50. The Clutch should be mid throw; at the top it's thin, and watch out for a grabby clutch (may be breaking pressure plate fingers internally).

51. Check for oil leaks near the 1 timing belt (355 has 2) and listen for squeaks from the belt idler pulley, rightside exhaust rattles, as well as warped front rotors causing loud noise upon braking.

Be skeptical. Make the car prove itself to you before you spend your money.v
Click to expand...

just wanted to thank you for this comprehensive list...

bballto · Apr 27, 2019

Ferrarium said: ↑

Valid concern. I would have comp/leak down done with pictures of the gauges as evidence. If that passes I would go down and do the PPI. It mostly stuff like check turn signal, check brake lights, check cigarette lighter, inspect body panel alignment etc then test drive and this check list. Not necessarily in that order.

Courtesy of http://www.my348.com/

Prelude - you want a clean title and a professional pre-purchase inspection that includes a "leak down" test (in which **you** personally listen along with your mechanic for any sounds of leaks during the test). Also, keep in mind that in many states you will be held responsible for any unpaid license fees (so make certain that the 348 has a current in-state license plate in the state in which it is being sold) as well as any unpaid sales taxes of any prior owners (so make certain that the 348 is correctly titled in the state in which it is being sold).

Passing off a high mileage car as a low mileage version (disconnected odometers are common on leased cars with strict mileage limits, then reconnected prior to turning back in to the leasing company)...using a Duplicate Title to hide a salvaged vehicle...rolling back the mileage, etc.

Things to look for:

1. Does she start instantly

2. Does the engine knock

3. Does she rattle or shake when driving above 60mph

4. Does the transmission have a major grinding sound when shifting up
through the gears (don't try a hard downshift, that's a different story)

5. Do all of the headlights, blinkers, brake-lights, fog-lights, parking
lights work and does the horn honk

6. Do both of the power windows and door locks work

7. Any vibrations in the steering wheel while driving, or secondly, is the steering wheel loose or tight?

8. Are the tips of the exhaust pipes coated black or gray (any visible holes
in exhaust pipes)

9. Any obvious paint burns/fade, rust, or clearly bent frame

10. Can the car turn in a slow-speed circle, with the steering wheel turned
all the way to max left, then another circle with the steering wheel max
right, without hearing tire scraping, loud knocks, or having bad steering
wheel vibrations

11. Air conditioning blows cold

12. Anti-lock brakes prevent the tires from locking in a quick stop (say,
from 25 mph to 0)

13. Top goes up and doesn't leak (canvas goes **outside** of black metal bars on sides)

14. Top goes down and the "boot" snaps correctly into place over it

15. Passenger and driver doors open and close tightly, with no squeaks,
rattles, or hesitation. With doors open, do you see any obvious breaks or burns in the wiring harness that runs from the car into the doors?

16. Front trunk opens and closes normally (simply drop it with no added pressure besides its own weight), and applying water to the outside when it's closed doesn't cause leaks inside

17. Rear engine vent cover opens and closes easily

18. Car tracks reasonably straight when you remove hands from steering wheel

19. Car goes into reverse with only minor effort (you may have to push down on the gearshift lever, that's by design)

20. Emergency brake holds car when parked and gear-shift is in neutral

21. Car idles below 1100 rpm, and idles reasonably smoothly (revs easily, puts smile on face)

22. no obvious signs of oil leaks below the engine on the pavement or in the engine compartment

23. no overpowering aroma of fire inside the cockpit

24. no noticeable smell of gasoline

25. radio and speakers function without large-scale hisses or pops

26. no visible smoke beneath the car or in the engine compartment when idling

27. is there a functioning car alarm (is it factory or aftermarket)

28. VIN plate in door-jamb and engine compartment is visible and unscratched and matches the number advertised

29. Front windshield is uncracked and seals appear tight around it

30. power mirrors adjust as expected

31. heater works as expected

32. Any loans against the title, any "duplicate" title history via autocheck.com, any stolen/salvage title history, is the car currently registered and tagged with a correct license plate in its current state/province

33. Open up the radiator and look for corrosion just inside the overfill tank. Sludge in the radiator tank can be a sign of a blown headgasket. Have a quickstop oil change place show you the transmission plug so that you can see if it has many metal fragments on it (i.e. disintegrating tranny or not). See if you have a Ferrari Purflex or high-end Wix oil filter with the date of installation/oil change written on it, or if the prior owner was a cheapskate (e.g. a Fram paper filter). Did the prior owner use a thick oil such as a 20-w50 to hide oil leaks, or do you have a decent synthetic (e.g. 5w-40) in the car?

34. When you first turn the ignition key to "run" (not "Start"), do you temporarily see both Check Engine (non-Euro cars) and both Slow Down lights? This is important, because if those bulbs have been removed or replaced with dead bulbs, engine trouble computer codes are probably being hidden from you. Do you see the ABS light and the BRAKE light? Do these lights turn off within 1 minute of starting the car?

35. Go drive the car. Brake slowly. Do you feel any vibrations? Does the car pull left or right while braking? Repeat this step (to warm up the brakes).

36. Can you shift smoothly into 2nd gear without grinding or clunking?

37. Is the acceleration smooth? Now brake hard. Vibrations? Pulling? ABS engaged?

38. Has the oil temp risen to the 1/4 mark during this drive? When it gets there, kill the engine (did you hear a loud "box of rocks" metallic clanking noise when you turned the engine off). You want to wait about 10 minutes to see if it will start up again when hot, so kill time by checking the exterior of the car, under the front and rear hoods, etc. OK, time has passed. Does it now start right up again when hot? This is important. Did you hear a loud "box of rocks" metallic clanking noise when starting the hot engine (this is an early sign of the flywheel needing to be repacked with grease...not terribly expensive to do, can even be done yourself, but good to know)?

39. Go idle the car or drive in traffic for 20 minutes. Do the oil and water temperatures both stay at or below their 1/2 way marks, or does the car overheat?

40. After all of the above, will she start up *again* easily, or is the battery "dead"

41. Now look under the rear engine deck at the catalytic converters. Are either of them glowing red?

42. Are all of the rubber CV boots (near wheels, on axles) intact, or do they have a split, crack, or hole? When driving slowly next to a wall, do you hear metallic bearing noises from your wheels?

43. Does the car have a reasonable paper trail for its documented service history?

44. Does the seller have all 3 original Factory keys (black, fold in half)?

45. Examine the shock/suspension set up (most 348 shocks need rebuilding for around $400 or all new shocks for $1,600).

46. Examine the doors/rockers for rust (typically on the bolts).

47. The car should have all service records *after* the last "Major Service." If it hasn't had a cam belt change in over 5 years or 30K miles then budget $4-6KUSD short term because you'll have to have the cam belt changed.

48. Try the climate control buttons; it's $2k and up if they don't work (Freon conversion alone is $300 once it's opened).

49. Look at the front airdam from underneath (Corners especially) for holes, bondo, skidplates and the like. Look under the side rails as well for hard bottoming out. Thanks, SeaBayR

50. The Clutch should be mid throw; at the top it's thin, and watch out for a grabby clutch (may be breaking pressure plate fingers internally).

51. Check for oil leaks near the 1 timing belt (355 has 2) and listen for squeaks from the belt idler pulley, rightside exhaust rattles, as well as warped front rotors causing loud noise upon braking.

Be skeptical. Make the car prove itself to you before you spend your money.v
Click to expand...

Nice help

Conversations

Alerts

Purchasing a F355. Your thoughts?

Shurik355 Formula Junior

Ferrarium F1 Veteran
Rossa Subscribed

tres55 F1 Rookie
Rossa Subscribed

Robb Moderator
Moderator Lifetime Rossa Owner

Ferrarium F1 Veteran
Rossa Subscribed

kenneyd Formula 3

carnutdallas Formula 3
Rossa Subscribed

Rossocorsa1 F1 Veteran

J. Salmon F1 Rookie
Owner

paulchua Cat Herder
Lifetime Rossa Owner

bballto Karting

Share This Page

Purchasing a F355. Your thoughts?

Shurik355 Formula Junior

Ferrarium F1 Veteran Rossa Subscribed

tres55 F1 Rookie Rossa Subscribed

Robb Moderator Moderator Lifetime Rossa Owner

Ferrarium F1 Veteran Rossa Subscribed

kenneyd Formula 3

carnutdallas Formula 3 Rossa Subscribed

Rossocorsa1 F1 Veteran

J. Salmon F1 Rookie Owner

paulchua Cat Herder Lifetime Rossa Owner

bballto Karting

Share This Page

Ferrarium F1 Veteran
Rossa Subscribed

tres55 F1 Rookie
Rossa Subscribed

Robb Moderator
Moderator Lifetime Rossa Owner

Ferrarium F1 Veteran
Rossa Subscribed

carnutdallas Formula 3
Rossa Subscribed

J. Salmon F1 Rookie
Owner

paulchua Cat Herder
Lifetime Rossa Owner