Putting car to sleep, what do I do?

use battery tender with one battery terminal disconnected
set on jack stand
27 months is a long time to sit around that's 2years and 3 months

 

I would arrange to have someone you trust drive the car for an hour every 3 or 4 months, rather than try to lay it up for the whole 27 months.

 

With no personal experience, I really think this is the best option... that's what I
would do myself.

Jedi

 

Remove the battery and buy a new one when you return.

Inflate the tires to exacty 35 psi and put the car on jackstands.
Measure pressure when you return...good wheel/tire information.
Stabil in full gas tank.

Enjoy your venture and hope you find personal peace.
The revolution will just be getting started when you return.

 

I am 100% in agreement with Paul on this.

I won't let anyone drive my car....especially if I were away.

 

2+ years is a long time and I don't believe the standard sort of several month layup steps are anywhere near sufficient. The service manual on some (usually industrial) engines contain such information and recommendations for storage of this length include running the engine dry of fuel, filling the cylinders with oil as well as a lot of other steps re the cooling system, belt tension, etc.

I recommend you do some research on this in other places where this is more common - maybe aircraft engine/diesel engine-related sites. Ideally, you want engine manufacturer recommendations, data about long term storage by people that make engines or are responsible for their maintenance.


Good Luck

 

That is a very long time to leave it sitting without running or anything. It'll be interesting to see what is said if any of the experts chime in here.

 

I think the most important thing is to ensure the environment the car is stored in is conducive to minimal deterioration - dry environment (AZ or inland CA is good), heated/temp controlled space (60-70 degrees is good), UV protection (either shaded windows or a car cover that won't bond to the paint), etc. If you have a good environment then there's less chance things will go wrong (fused clutches, frozen brake pistons, seized pistons, etc.) when you're back. I'd drain the fuel system, even with stabil that fuel will start to deteriorate after 12 months or so and you don't want to run it through the fuel system. If you don't have enough time to drain the system then fill it completely and add a good dose of stabil. Perhaps put a couple 1lb bags of dehumidifier crystals in the interior (sitting in smallish plastic tubs) to discourage mold. Try to ensure rodents can't access the car - mouse/rat pee is highly corrosive, and leather is a nice snack for them.

Good luck and enjoy your adventure!

 

Personally, I think people are being a little over-anxious. I've seen plenty of cars come back to life after far greater time in storage. If you want to hit the most important areas to ensure no problems when you get back:

Here are the big things:
1) Charge the battery fully and disconnect it. I prefer to take it out of the car, but if it is a relatively new battery, it can be left in without fear of leaking.
2) Fill the tank and put in StaBil. Remember, you have to actually RUN the engine for it to get throughout the fuel system. When you fill the tank, use high quality fuel, such as Texaco (rather than a Costco/grocery store brand.)
3)Change the oil (you will also want to change the oil again when you come back.)
4) Here's the big one: BRAKE FLUID! If you are using standard DOT3, this can absorb moisture and corrode and seize your calipers. Make sure you get fresh fluid in there and bleed it through the system to prevent any issues.
5) Put the car on jack stands to prevent flat-spotting the tires.
6) Wash and wax the car to protect the paint, especially if you're going to put a cover on it.
7) Depending on your climate, it's not a bad idea to rig a shower curtain rod or piece of wood to keep the clutch depressed. (My Triumph TR7 clutch fused to the pressure plate after three months!)
8) Keep insurance on it!!! I can't tell you how many people I know who have lost cars to fires, floods, earthquakes while in storage.

 

It all depends on how much work you want to do when you return.

Here's an example of the requirements for "Indefinite" aircraft engine storage which, as far as the FAA is concerned, is only 90 days. Of course some items - like magnetos, "flying the airplane," references to safety wire, etc don't apply but the principles do. IMO, the goal is to NOT have to do a lot of work when you return and repair/replace parts that have deteriorated. I agree with others that if at all possible, someone should drive the car periodically the entire time so nothing would be required for "preservation."

Note that even with the preservation prep, the aircraft requirements still include an inspection every 15 days! I am not saying that you will (or could) meet all these requirements but it's important to realize that storage over extended periods is a lot more "serious" than the basic "winterizing" steps that are being discussed. Sure, I have seen a seized engine that hadn't run 20 years sit for two days after MMO was squirted into each cyl and, with new spark plugs and wires, it started up and ran. But I would want my Ferrari maintained over the two year period in the best way possible.

Note that this only applies to the ENGINE, but it's an example of the care needed to ensure proper storage.

INDEFINITE STORAGE (Aircraft that are not flown for 90 days)
Preparation for storage:
1. Remove oil sump drain plug and drain oil. Replace drain plug, torque and safety. Remove oil filter Install new oil filter torque and safety. Service engine to proper sump capacity with oil conforming to MIL-C-6529 Type II.
2. Perform a ground run-up. Perform a pre-flight inspection and correct any discrepancies. Fly the aircraft for one hour at normal operation temperatures.

3. After flight remove all spark plug leads and remove the spark plugs. Protect the ignition lead ends with AN-4060 Protectors. Install protective plugs P/N 22671 in bottom spark plug holes. Using a common garden sprayer or equivalent, spray atomized preservative oil that meets MIL-P-46002, Grade 1, at room temperature through upper spark plug hole of each cylinder with the piston at bottom dead center position. Rotate crankshaft as opposite cylinders are sprayed. Stop crankshaft with none of the pistons at top dead center.

4. Re-spray each cylinder. To thoroughly cover all surfaces of the cylinder interior move the nozzle or spray gun from the top to the bottom of the cylinder.
5. Install dehydrator plugs MS27215-1 or -2 in each of the upper spark plug holes. Make sure each plug is blue in color when installed.
6. Attach a red "REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT" streamer to each bag of desiccant. Place a bag of desiccant in the exhaust pipes and seal the openings.
7. Seal all engine openings exposed to the atmosphere using suitable plugs and covers.
8. Tag propeller in a conspicuous place with the following notation on the tag: DO NOT TURN PROPELLER - ENGINE PRESERVED -PRESERVATION DATE .
INDEFINITE STORAGE INSPECTION PROCEDURES
1. Aircraft prepared for indefinite storage must have the cylinder dehydrator plugs visually inspected every 15 days. The plugs must be changed as soon as they indicate other than a dark blue color. If the dehydrator plugs have changed color in one-half or more of the cylinders, all desiccant material on the engine must be replaced.
2. The cylinder bores of all engines prepared for indefinite storage must be re-sprayed with corrosion preventive mixture every 90 days.

 

Mike is right -- work up front means less work after.

The most common issues I've had over the years are:
1) Dead batteries very common
2) Flat spots on the tires (from not being on jack stands). USUALLY this corrects itself with enough heat cycles and driving.
3)Carb seal leaks/issues requiring retuning. When seals sit dry after years and years of use, they tend to crack, contract, which can mean leaking or simply putting the air/fuel mixture off. If carbs are recently rebuilt, the materials generally can handle sitting for a longer time.
4) Sticking hydraulic cylinders -- brake and clutch (master/slave). See my post before about water in the fluid.

My '86 Dodge 600ES convertible sat for over four years in storage when I lived in Houston. The fuel gummed up and clogged the filter, and fouled the plugs. A couple of the brakes also were dragging. It basically took a new fuel filter, new wheel cylinders, new spark plugs and a new battery to get going...and it has been running with no other issues for six years. (Alright, no issues other than Dodge-specific problems totally unrelated to storage, such as a broken rear window motor.)