QP Battery trouble

Most modern cars have some electronics devices like burgler alarm permanently connected to the battery. These devices draw little current, but after a few weeks they will empty the biggest battery! (I had my battery empty after one week leaving the GPS on!)
There are cutoff switches which go directly onto the battery pole. If you do not mind to open the bonnet or trunk (whereever is the battery in the QP), you can install one of these yourself, but be sure not to buy one with a resistor across the open switch (for feeding the radio or burgler alarm) because this would still discharge your battery. If you open the switch before leaving the car for a few weeks, you will find the battery still perfectly fit when you come back. Of course, your burgler alarm will NOT work during your absence and you will have to reset the radio code (and perhaps something else, I do not know the QP) before you can drive away. But that seems simpler than bringing the car to the dealer. (Maybe your dealer likes to see your car, that's why he does not want to install a switch.)

 

Swap the FIAMM out with an Interstate Battery part number MTP 93.

 

I have an 05 QP. I drive it quite a bit as I now have 15k miles on it even though it is one of 9 cars I own. I am getting ready to buy my 3rd battery. Like an earlier post said there are a few low draw circuits that are a death knell for a battery. If the car sits for any length of time there is not enough cranking power to start. If you let it get weak a few times you can kiss the battery goodbye. A cut-off would be the answer.

Love the QP though.....

 

If you fit a cut-off switch, it's more of a pain to reset than just the radio code. There is the lock/unlock sequence for the remote, the re-learn procedure for the glass roof(if fitted) re-set the NIT unit with it's code and presets, as well as setting up the GPS clock and tyre pressure monitor.Low/disconnected battery can also set CAN faults in the body prossesor module, which may or may not bring up various random warning lights. They are supposed to clear errors at the dealers with the SD3 everytime the battery is diconnected/reconnected.

 

Thanks for this information. I understand now why the specialist does not want to put in a cut-off switch.
Have you ever tried to measure the draw from the battery?
You can do that by connecting FIRST an Ammeter (in the 0-1A range) between battery negatif pol and the chassis cable and THEN disconnect the clamp. All those electronics mentioned above are then still fed with the 12V and the current goes through the Ammeter.
Assuming you have a 64 Ah battery and the current drawn is 0.1A (100mA), then the battery is completely empty after less than 640 hours or 26 days.
If the stored car sees some daylight, then a solar panel could help to keep the battery charged. Otherwise a little charger from the mains? It would be shame to have the engine running every week for an hour, just to keep the battery full!