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Qs on brake and clutch fluid flush, thank you in advance.

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by Tifoso1, Jul 30, 2020.

  1. Tifoso1

    Tifoso1 F1 Rookie

    Nov 18, 2003
    2,554
    Pacific NW
    Full Name:
    Anthony C.
    My next task on the Testarossa is to flush the brake calipers and the clutch. Been doing my home work on the how-to and buying necessary tools needed to help me do this correctly and efficiently. I will be following the steps by TDC again on this (http://truedriverscar.com/docs/testarossa_brakeFluidFlush). The car has ATE blue in it right now, so I do plan on going to either clear or amber to help me better ID the flushing progress since I am a rookie at this. With that said, I have two questions that come to mind immediately about this, so like always, any help will be greatly appreciated.

    1) With the clutch bleeder valve hiding underneath the heat shield of air intake and filter, I am having a hard time seeing and reaching it. Do you need to remove the intake or is there a trick to getting this done?

    2) Caliper procedure. I have been taught to bleed the caliper furthest away from the reservoir first (RR, LR, RF & LF), but as I understand it, the factory manual has the sequence that is new to me, RF, LF, RR then LR. Not trying to be smarter than Ferrari engineers but can someone explain to me the reasons behind this process and which one do you follow?

    Again, many thanks to all of you.
     
  2. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    6,273
    southwest germany
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    romano schwabel
    as long as there is old brake fluid in it does not matter where you start first. only have to bleed as long until new brake fluid comes out without airbubbles
    sorry, can not explain the procedure F says. italian logic? ;)
     
  3. Veedub00

    Veedub00 F1 Rookie
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    Jun 30, 2006
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    Troy, Michigan
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    James
    removing the intake takes a few minutes. super easy. 10mm nuts.
     
  4. Tifoso1

    Tifoso1 F1 Rookie

    Nov 18, 2003
    2,554
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    Anthony C.
    Stupid f/u Q: Do you or can you please give a more detailed step by step instruction on how to do that so I can follow and not make any mistakes? Does this whole thing need to come off or just part of it? Sorry for being such an idiot about this.

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  5. Veedub00

    Veedub00 F1 Rookie
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    Jun 30, 2006
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    I take off the four nuts (A), then the two nuts (B), then loosen two nuts (C), then loosen clamps at (D), then loosen clamp at hose (E). then the whole assembly slides out of the rubber air elbows and off the plate (5). I then remove the plate because it wiggles easily and you'll lose those washers on the floor if it detaches.
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  6. Tifoso1

    Tifoso1 F1 Rookie

    Nov 18, 2003
    2,554
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    Anthony C.
    Thank you !!!!!
     
  7. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Rookie
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    Aug 29, 2008
    4,930
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    David A.
    Take a turkey baster or some device to suck the fluid out of the M/Cyl. reservoir before you start the bleed. Refill with new fluid, that way you don't have to bleed as much!
     
  8. Tifoso1

    Tifoso1 F1 Rookie

    Nov 18, 2003
    2,554
    Pacific NW
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    Anthony C.
    Thank you for your response. I do plan on extracting as much existing fluid out of the reservoir as possible first and will refill it with fresh fluid. I also purchased a Motive pressure bleeder and will be using it to complete the job. I was having trouble visualizing how to access the clutch bleeder valve before, and thanks to Veedub00, I am that much more confident about the whole process.
     
  9. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    19,160
    Texas
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    Steve Magnusson
    Removing the 4 nuts, loosening the loop clamp 9, and removing part 7 will allow you to remove washers 6 and wiggle out the shield 5 -- should give you plenty of access to the clutch bleed screw -- JMO.
     
  10. Tifoso1

    Tifoso1 F1 Rookie

    Nov 18, 2003
    2,554
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    Anthony C.
    As always, thank you !!!!!
     
  11. EDoug

    EDoug Karting

    Apr 19, 2005
    68
    Southern Florida
    Just changed the failed clutch hose on my 86TR and bled the system using Motive bleeder. IMHO, there is certainly no need to do any disassembly of the intake or heat shield. Yes the heat shield is visually in the way, but a good covering on the fender and a bright light will give you a better look without disassembly. EDoug
     
  12. Tifoso1

    Tifoso1 F1 Rookie

    Nov 18, 2003
    2,554
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    Anthony C.
    Thank you, I will see which method I am most comfortable with.
     
  13. c4b4the04

    c4b4the04 Karting
    Silver Subscribed

    Jun 9, 2017
    161
    Northern Virginia
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    Cassidy
    The blue hasn't been produced for US sales in many years, which would indicate you have an older fluid in the system. My years of track use between ATE Blue and gold were easy, you go until the color changes and you're set.

    Your system likely will have residual blue for the next few flushes. If it were my car, I would recommend a flush, then another flush in 6 months. At that time, you should be able to get a good, clean fluid. You will likely have a greenish hue to the fluid, even after a pressure bleed, for some time.

    Wanted to mention that to you, as that stuff REALLY stains the system for some time. You may want to siphon out all of the blue, fill the reservoir and repeat a number of times. It will be difficult to get that crystal clear as well.
     
  14. Tifoso1

    Tifoso1 F1 Rookie

    Nov 18, 2003
    2,554
    Pacific NW
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    Anthony C.
    I wasn't aware of that, thank you for the information. I just assume it is ATE Blue because the container is showing blue, perhaps it is due to the residual from before as you have mentioned. I guess I will find out when I do the flush and yes, I will flush it again in 6 months once I know how to do this correctly and more confident about performing this work. Again, thank you !!!
     

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