Thanks! Here is the link: https://mocal1.wordpress.com/2017/08/25/ferrari-355360-transmission-water-to-oil-heat-exchanger/
Hi Chris, the build date on mine (your old car for the benefit of others reading) is July ‘94, it has all of the early 2.7 features (the good AND the bad, LOL!). The cylinder heads are early ones (SX: 2154015 from April ‘94, DX: 2154014 from June ‘94). Are the part numbers different on yours? Interesting note about the narrow spark plug wells. A friend that worked quite some time at Ferrari also supported the notion that the early 355s were different (first question he asked me was “did you get the early version??”) I’ve discovered lots of little differences on early cars as I been combing through engine. I’m just about done, so I promise will start a thread with photos (literally have hundreds...lots of eye candy). Here are photos of the casting marks on the heads. You car looks great, yellow is such a great color for these cars PS: I’ve put about 9000 miles on the car since I got it - it’s brilliant. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I figured that was the case. Build date on my yellow car is November '94 and it does NOT have the early car goodies. According to Daniel @ Ricambi, the engine number cutoff for the "early" cars is 38150 (mine is 38420). But I do still have the twin fuel filters on either side of the firewall and a few other things. Your car allegedly has all kinds of differences. Lighter pistons, etc. The head castings are definitely different, with yours being ported more aggressively. The downside was that they had issues with the water jackets (I remember reading a thread a while back where Dave Helms said he has seen a number with coolant seeping into the intake tract). I am so glad it ended up in good hands and that you are enjoying it! My current car feels noticeably quicker than my old '97 GTS, but yours is a freak. Looking forward to your thread!
Yep, my engine number is 37556. How is the Tubi/Nouvalari combo on the M2.7? Must sound amazing! I’ve never heard Nouvalari in real life. Share some sound clip if you get a chance. I put Tubi manifolds and Capristo stage 3 on mine during this major (you recall it had the Borla with the stock manifolds)
Thanks! Old filter that the car came with when I purchased it last year. Obviously put a new one in when I was refilling fluids.
It sounds great! So much better than the Capristo with the bypass closed (as Elliott detailed earlier). I'm very happy. Yes, I was not a big fan of the Borla on your car and would have certainly changed it had I kept it... I will work on a good way to get some sound clips.
So maybe the Capristo stage 3 is a good way to go too then? I second the petition for some sound clips of your setup!
I have tried stage 1-3, 2/3 and 3/3 on 2.7 and it’s more or less the same before bypass. And they all sound the same after bypass. There is not enough in it to get that sound before bypass without opening the bypass permanently and then it loses that cool transition into full F1 scream and gets a bit obnoxious.
Exhaust just arrived. Im gonna cut it open . If I can make it sound like a Tubi Evo when bypass closed, that would be a dream. Italian sounding cruising around town. Full on F1 when things get serious .
Thanks for taking the time to post the photos. It was great to see the journey and the details of the engine. I'm in awe of your mechanical abilities.
Chris, Just curious how long it took to get the engine clear of the car. I assume it's not a quick change like a race car. I use to be able to clear a Learjet engine from the airframe in about 35 minutes. But this is engineered to be quick.
It really depends on the setup you're working with. I'm not sure if you mean the *entire* process as-in everything drained and disconnected and engine out? Or just how long to drop the assembly after everything has been disconnected? This was my first time doing this on the 355, so I was taking my time. I would spend an hour or two per day as time allowed over the course of a week to get everything disconnected. Then a whole afternoon to build the wood platform to sit onto the harbor freight lift cart and drop the engine. I built the platform to grab the frame on both sides so all of the weight wasn't on the engine and gearbox pans. Dropping the engine on a traditional 2-post lift would be much easier. The 4-post takes longer because of all of the maneuvering required. If I had to do it all over again with everything fresh in my mind, I would estimate that I could have everything drained and disconnected and engine out in a day (6-8 hours). Everything disconnected and just dropping the engine? On a 2 post an hour or less. On the 4 post closer to 2 hours. Putting it in takes a bit longer because everything needs to be lined up perfectly. I'm sure guys like Mitchell who do this regularly can do it faster. Thanks! It's for the gearbox fluid. So there are 2 Banjo fittings (feed and return) that pump fluid from the side of the gearbox cover up to the heat exchanger which sits in the middle of the V, where it is plumbed into the cooling system. Anxious to follow your progress on this! I promise I'll post some sound clips soon. I owe the thread some completed engine bay pics also. Will try and get those soon. Also have some very exciting things coming on the suspension front. Stay tuned for that (I'll make a separate thread)
@chris1866 I'm talking to Nouvalari's vendor now, and they're showing me different mufflers for F1 and manual... I didn't realize they'd need to be different? Did you get the 'manual' one with the dual pipes coming from the can?
Yes, mine is the "manual" one which looks like the one on the left. I specifically asked if there were 2 separate chambers where the pipes came out (similar to Capristo and Tubi Evolution). Top/outside pipes for the bypass chamber (theoretically with less baffling), and bottom/inside pipes for the main catalyst (bypass closed). Truth be told, I do not notice a big difference in volume with bypass open vs closed. But it does sound good at all RPMs!
Sound clips as promised... The partial throttle/bypass closed stuff is where I really prefer the Nouvalari to the Capristo. For those that haven't read the full thread, this is with Tubi headers, cat bypasses, and Nouvalari muffler. Partial throttle acceleration in-car. Byass closed. Partial throttle fly-by (approx. 4k rpm). Bypass closed. WOT acceleration in-car. WOT acceleration from outside. WOT acceleration flyby.
From my experience with F1 cars the muffler design with a dual pipes leave minimal clearance to the f1 pump heat-shield. I recently removed a Tubi from an F1 car and the outer pipe had burnt a hole almost through the fibreglass heat shield. Perhaps that is the reason for the differentiation in this case.
This is surprisingly really good! Definitely better than Capristo when bypass closed. More uniform sound top to bottom. Capristo doesn’t sound like much of anything when bypass closed. However, Capristo is noticeably sharper once bypass open. Thoughts on Nouvalari vs Tubi Evo Elliot?
Thanks for the videos Chris. The sound before bypass is a lot better. The Capristo kills it for top end scream however. I will soon make a switch back to the Tubi Evolution before commenting. Right now I have Tubi headers, re cored OEM catalyst with 200 cell high flow metal cats, OEM y pipe and Capristo bypass valve. From memory the Tubi is similar to the Nouvalari but the main reason I swapped it out was the Tubi did suffer from drone. But right now I’m thinking the drone is better than it sounding like a Camry before bypass valve is open with the Capristo 2/3.
Agreed. Seeing as I spend a lot of time driving with the bypass closed, that aspect of the sound was important to me. I was tempted to go with the Tubi Evolution, but for the price, the Nouvalari is hard to beat for the total package. Very interested to see what Ken finds when he cuts the Capristo open.
They have a third model not shown, as i bought directly from them in the U.K they sent me the right one with the lovely attachment brackets with 355 engraved for the manual version. I beleive the left one is the old model they phased out a couple years ago as it seems to have standard fitment brackets. Here is the one i have, it's for the 6-speed manual.
Great job! I would add black paint to the blank surface of the cleaned fuel injectors fur rust protection. Unfortunately the original color disappears in the ultrasonic bath. Image Unavailable, Please Login
