So today I figured I'd clean and put new grease on the antenna, since it was only opening halfway and making weird noises ("thunk, thunk, thunk" when it stopped extending, and when it was finished retracting) Well, it outsmarted me. I put it back in the car and it didn't work at all. Took it apart, made sure everything looked ok and installed it once more, this time it made the thunk, thunk sound (it was already retracted, and stayed that way), but never extended. The switch in the car beside the radio to raise/lower the antenna doesn't work. I'm guessing that the little sensor wheel inside the drum needs to be aligned a certain way so that the contacts are in a specific position. Does anyone know what position that might be? The antenna says "Realistic 12-2326" (or similar, it's in the car now and I don't recall the exact number). Cheers, Thor
Can anyone tell me what the bolt that screws in beside the kickdown linkage bar is for? Is it to screw the kickdown linkage bar swivel to the cross bar that goes to the carburettor throttle control bar (on the opposite side of the engine)? I'm referring specifically to page 128 (section 3-12, Figure 24) in the complete service manual for the QP3. I would expect it to be the same or similar on Ghiblis and Indys as well, if fitted with a slushbox. I'm adjusting my kickdown linkage after rebuilding the transmission. The transmission itself shifts wonderfully, smooth, quick and precise, just that it shifts much too soon in every gear (around 1300rpm with light throttle, 2100rpm with medium to heavy throttle - it should be moved up about 1000rpm overall) and won't kick down at all. So I was having a look at how everything is connected and was planning on adjusting the length of the kickdown linkage bar to the swivel (there is a threaded end with a nut to adjust it). Longer = later. Mine didn't really seem to have any additional length available when I looked at it this weekend, but will have another look. Cheers, Thor Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Still chasing down all the details I've been after, going to pull the instrument binnacle as soon as we get some clear weather and see if I can't fix the speedo. In the meantime I had her up on a lift to go through things before spring arrives and we go for some longer drives, and discovered noise coming from the rear left wheel bearing, and both rear wheels (bearings) feel a bit loose, with too much play. Looking through the factory service manual, it looks like changing bearings is a big job requires special tools and a hydraulic press. Has anyone done this before? Could you give me a quick rundown as to how involved a job it is? Also, are the bearings, cups and seals pretty standard off the shelf items, or are they Maserati specific? I've emailed the regular suppliers, but if this is identical to an XJ6 I could get a set at the corner parts shop. Cheers, Thor
Its actually pretty easy to get the hub off. They are not interchangeable. D for destra (right). S for sinistra (left). You need to remove the main nut with a special tool. I used a punch and hammer. Make sure you dont forget which way it was when you took it off. First remove the set screw then start punching away in a counterclockwise direction for both, driver & passenger sides. My mistake was not marking the nut to the spindle to be sure to retighten it to the same torque. I had to guess. Then loosen the through bolts holding the bottom of the hub to the lower control arm. Use a puller and the hub is off. I had no clue as to what to do next so I brought the hubs after cleaning them up to my mechanic and he did the bearings. It wasnt cheap. I think he charged like $600. He also pressed out the sleeve that surrounds the through bolt. Once the sleeve is cleaned and greased it should slide in and out easily. That eliminated an annoying creak I kept hearing when the car would slowly deflect up or down. Like while filling the gas tank from near empty to full as the car slowly moves down a bit. I would hear a creak and feel the car jerk down a bit. Then again creak and down a bit until full. But if you bounced the car rapidly youd hear nothing. Hope this helps! Tony Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thor, I think the shift points being too soon is an adjustment on the transmission Go to this link and there will be photos also showing where the adjustments are to be made http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/torqueflite-727-governor-adjustment-742964/ OK! To start with, these are your pressure test ports, RIGHT SIDE REAR --------------------------------------------------- With the pan off, this is the Line Pressure Adjust Starting Point. YOU WILL NEED A PRESSURE GAUGE FOR THIS! ------------------------------ HYDRAULIC CONTROL PRESSURE ADJUSTMENTS Line Pressure, (pay attention, this first sentence is a KILLER!) An incorrect Throttle Pressure Setting will cause incorrect Line Pressure READINGS, Even though Line Pressure Adjustment is correct. ALWAYS inspect and correct throttle pressure adjustment BEFORE adjusting the line pressure! ..................... The approximate adjustment is 1-5/16", measured from valve body to inner edge of adjusting nut (Fig. 6) However, due to manufacturing tolerances the adjustment can be varied to obtain specified line pressure... The adjusting screw may be turned with an Allen wrench. One complete turn of the adjusting screw changes CLOSED THROTTLE LINE PRESSURE approximately 1-2/3 PSI per revolution. Turning adjusting screw COUNTER-Clockwise increases pressure, While turning Clockwise Decreases pressure. ----------------------------------- THROTTLE PRESSURE, Throttle Pressures CAN NOT be tested accurately, therefore, the adjustment should be measured if a malfunction is evident. 1. Insert pin of Tool C-3763 between the throttle lever cam and kick down valve (Fig. 7) 2. By pushing in on the tool, compress kick down valve against it's spring so throttle valve is completely bottomed inside the valve body. (I use a small, long nose punch to bottom out the valve, you don't really need a specialty tool) 3. As force is being exerted to compress the spring, Turn the throttle lever stop screw with Allen wrench until the head of screw touches the throttle lever tang with throttle lever cam touching tool and the throttle valve bottomed. Be sure adjustment is made with spring fully compressed and the valve bottomed in the valve body. Throttle Valve Adjustment, Bottom out the Kick down valve in it's bore, Screw in the Allen bolt until the bolt head touches the throttle lever. Not as hard as it sounded in the official version, but holding in that valve can be a pain" Hope this helps Thor! Charles Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
In most cases, you will need to cut off one of the bearings that are on the shaft and it also needs to be pressed back on to eliminate end play on the assembly. The bearings and seals are not unusual. There was a thread here somewhere that had all the numbers. Warning though that the Factory Manual is wrong and lists either one of the cups/races incorrectly. I paid a guy to take it apart-races/bearings and I had to make some final adjustments after it was put back together to make sure there was no play. $20 The fulcrum bolt should just slide out but one side of mine was really a bugger to remove. REgards Charles
rear wheel bearings Inner cone: JLM 104948 Outer cone: JLM 506849 Inner cup: JLM 104910 Outer cup: JLM 506810 grease seal National 47203, 47283/ D16Y-1190A(this is a Ford number) Above bearings same as rear de Tomaso Pantera and Longchamp.
Hi Charles, thanks for the heads up on the bearings. The factory service manual lists the following: Rear axle bearings: Inner taper roller Timken cone JLM 506849 cup JLM 506810 Outer taper roller Timken cone JLM 506849 cup JLM 506810 Grease 150 gr. Agip FD 33 I'm a bit curious as to how the rear bearings can be shot (or loose) when the (P)PO rebuilt the entire suspension only a few years ago. How long should they last? The car hasn't done more than approx 20,000 miles since the rebuild. I've heard from one person off-list that the QP3 suspension really needs to be tuned and adjusted as a whole, front and rear, and that just replacing the bearings isn't going to help except in the short term. He suggested that I remove and restore the entire rear subassembly while I do the bearings. Suddenly it sounds like I'm in for a major project again (so much for the "rolling restoration"), and this one is not something I'm comfortable taking on myself. Also, if it was just recently redone (I have pictures and receipts showing the whole thing, it was finally reassembled in autumn 2005 Perhaps I can just deal with the rear bearings for now (adjusting the stabilizer bars and assorted bits to match) and save the rest as next winter's project. I plan on asking around to see if I can find anyone local who can either do this, or at least help get it done. From the looks of things, a Jaguar specialist might be good to have seeing as the suspension appears suspiciously Jaguar-like. If anyone knows exactly what parts (in addition to the bearings themselves) are needed, please let me know. That way I can order all the parts while I find someone who can do the work and we won't end up in the middle of the job missing a shim or bushing :-(. Cheers, Thor
Hi Tony, I spent some time this afternoon removing the instrument cluster - 4 screws along the bottom front edge, and it won't budge. I found one threaded stud underneath the cluster, slightly to the left of the steering column and removed the nut, it still won't budge. The manual says there's another towards the right edge, but I was unable to find it and it was getting dark, so I'll have a look in the morning. The manual says it 'lifts up', i.e. towards the windshield, while you write that it pulls forward, i.e. towards the steering wheel. Right? I've got a new can of contact cleaner and will go through all the molex connectors tomorrow and see if I can't get the instrument cluster free from the dash. Cheers, Thor
Hi Thor, Check these pics. On mine there are two studs in the top of the cluster cover that just push into holes under the windshield - plus the screws right in the front lip of the dash and that was it. So pulling toward me while sitting in the seat pulled the studs out of their sockets. Hope this helps, Tony Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I don't wanna seem like a complete butt head..but I really wanna know. What is it that makes you guys love these cars? I personaly think they are cool, but in a "i wouldn't wanna own one" kind of way. What is it about these QP's that keeps you going? Maybe I'm missing out on a great car?
Provocative question and I am sure it will elicit a wide range of responses. Most classics are 2 door 2 seaters but some people like 4. This could be ease of use or a family. I can enjoy my car with my daughter along. The car carries with it the exotic and unusual cachet. Aside from exhalted company such as this site, trust me, on the road I am stopped all the time and the car is photographed on the street. People like it. It also does drive very well when you have it working - it is a fun car to drive, very stable, willing and great on the road. So what choices in this category are there? QP1 You could go older such as the series 1 but I have had one and it is a bit scarier to drive and not really up to modern living - fun but a bit daunting to drive. One low speed run in London left me at the mechanics as the plug had fouled - "She don't like that type o'drivin'" Oh and the turning radius is horrible. Ferrari 400s - these seem really nice cars but I have not had a drive in one. They do seem to be more expensive to run and repair and run. Good choice I think Lagonda Rapide - Really nice car but like the QPi and very rare. Cant really double as a daily driver So - probably only a few choices if you want a 4 door exotic marque useable car. Now more of course with the new quattroporte, Porche Panamerica, New 4 door Aston etc.
Hi Tony - perfect! Thanks so much. I guess I wasn't pulling hard enough (although before I have another go I'll have a closer look while the sun is shining to see if there are any nuts or clips holding the studs at the front by the firewall), didn't want to damage anything. Cheers, Thor
Personally I prefer most of the other Maserati models as far as aesthetics go, but I have to admit the QP3 grows on you. I didn't want a BiTurbo, and the new models are nice, but because of taxes and other factors here don't make any sense (basically a modern car costs 2x here compared to EU, closer to 3x the US price, and service, etc is similar). It drives much better than it's size belies, is extremely comfortable with what can only be described as an opulent interior and high level of luxury. I love the way it hunkers down in corners and holds the road, and on the freeway is a beast, especially at higher speeds (although I'm not a fan of the rate it guzzles fuel, but that's just part of the cost of ownership). For me personally, I needed something I could use on weekends for family trips. I don't own another car (live and work in town) so getting a 2 seater toy 'just for me' was out of the question. It was also important to have something that worked and was reasonably easy to find parts for. Another reason I went with this kind of car was to have something I could do together with my son, who loves mechanical stuff and helping his dad fix things ;-) I was actually looking for a Jaguar Mk2 or older XJ when I came across the QP3. Always a fan of Maserati (much less brazen than Ferrari, but with a similar motoring history and performance, albeit with more focus on comfort and motoring enjoyment than top speed), I jumped at the opportunity to get into something this exotic at an affordable price. The last thing I want is a car that screams at passers by, and nothing does that like a Ferrari. Had I gone the 'F' route, the 400i does have a nice understated quality about it. I could definitely consider a 400i as an alternative, but have no idea as to the cost of maintenance or availability of parts. Beautiful as they are, a Mistral or Bora would be a whole different league as far as purchasing, storage and maintenance if you're going to do it right. With a family and a "normal" income, this is probably the closest I'll get to experiencing Italian exotica, and I'm enjoying every minute of it (despite my occasional spats of complaining ;-). If I were to choose a different Maserati, it would still need to seat 4 (or I'd have to buy a second car first). I really like the looks of the Mexico and the 3500GT, and in the former case I'd have the advantage of already being familiar with the V8. The Ghibli and Mistral are beautiful but out of my league price-wise, and only seat 2. Maybe some day I'll get the QP3 in nice enough shape that I can sell it and buy a Mexico. That would be something! Until that day I'll be enjoying being part of the Maserati experience, as marginal and humble as it may be in a QP3 compared to some of the 'sexier' models. Cheers, Thor
Thor I can agree with what you are saying. My father was from the UK and we were a Jaguar family. As a younger child I remember holidays in the MK 3 and the lovely MK X (420G) What a car. I still have a soft spot for it. We sold the Cadillac and my dad bought a 1976 XJ6L in British Racing Green. What a revelation. Up until that time it was a Fleetwood 75 and a Buick Limited but I had never driven a car anything like this. We forget how great these cars were "in the day". Anyway, the XJ6 was a Friday car cursed by Lucas prince of darkness and would simply shut down at any speed and only start sometime later. Anyway, my love affair continued and I bought a 23,000mile original XJ6 L a few years ago and fixed it up. The cars had a cooling problem solved by upgrading rads and fans. It was a nice car but I really was a Maserati lover at heart. I bought a 6,000 mile Zagato Biturbo in Black and it was the best car ever. It took to Fabio Nero in Sienna who got it sorted (all the while complaining of the work done on it prior "idiota, imbecillia and other Italian sounding derogatives>). I will have a 2 door someday and love the Mexico but I really have always preferred the sleeping understated 4 doors. Mercedes 4 door with the 6.3 motor XJ 6 and older 4 doors Tatra Imperial and the suicide door Continental Lagonda Rapide and later Aston Lagonda Ferrari 400i - particularly as it comes in a convertible There are maybe a few others like Facel Vega etc that could make the list but right now for this season you can own a QPIII and there are enough good ones being scrapped to get all the parts you need. We are seeing a divergence in price also. Good ones I can show you ads for up to 30,000 Euro (low mileage, European, restored, all original). The low mileage original example here sold for approx 29,000 pounds but this was a brand new car with no storage damage. Wrecks are not really worth much given repair costs and ebay example even nice will set you back $10,000 immediately in terms of redoing the top of the motor, valve cover gaskets, recore of rad, suspension on front and rear and various bits of delayed maintenance. Still for the right car worth doing. So now is the time to have one and get one ready for the road. But it is definitely buyer beware and much better if you have a place to work on the car and store it. Have fun.
Why I love my 4Porte: Its big and comfortable. I have a friend whos like 250lbs who said Ahh, This is comfortable! when he sat behind the wheel. Its powerful loud and fast! Its a 1979 all original euro version with a 5 speed manual. Being euro theres nothing but engine under the hood and an exhaust system without catalytic converters. The crinkle paint on the engine and the diamond material covering everything else under the hood. The 8 pack The headers Theres no dammed ODBCII check engine light! Its so well preserved. It spent most of its life in a museum in Italy where it was well taken care of. It costs practically nothing to insure. The old fashion manual heating & cooling controls, so simple. The pull out to preset radio buttons. The chrome The heated glass rear AND front. The choke. Pull that choke out in the dead of winter on a freezing cold morning, touch the key and vroom! The little sprayers in front of the headlights. (Ill get them working) The rear roll-up window shades. The little stupid manually operated light and power outlet under the hood. The other little stupid manually operated light that shines down on the center controls. The bulb failure system. The fact that its the same designer as my DeLorean I love the way some people who know nothing about cars look at it and look away. Then turn back to have another look. Then look inside and go wow! Everything is wrapped in leather. Even under the trunk lid. Theres more but now I want to go for a ride! Tony
Great responses...Hummm maybe I should look at little closer at these hidden gems. They are a cool looking car, but parts locating kinda scares me a bit. I have worked on only one and that was an oil change, so I never really gave a good look over. Is that jaguar rear suspension?? If so I have a bunch of parts that may work for you guys lying around the shop..Brand new stuff too.
Parts have been not too bad I can give you a list of some of the good suppliers but certainly MIE has most key parts and used body parts can be found at MIE but also Joedro is breaking cars. BUT, try not to get a car that needs any body parts as they all add up. My old shop mislaid/lost/stole a number of parts and it all added up. However, if you do have a key bit of interior or exterior they are around. Mechanically the rear end is Salisbury same a Jag I am told and many parts are interchangeable. There are lists of these interchangeable parts. A full motor rebuild on the 4.9 is possible but the motor is the same as in many Maseratis so on this car it is a bit pricey. However, it is all doable within reason. I have been meaning to do a list of MUST DO fixes such as free flow rad core, switch for the fans (in case they do not kick in automatically) front end parts replacement (the XJ6 eats alternators and the QP3 eats front end bits); all window motors are slow but this is partly the grease seizing in the fan and the old felts in the channels. The Hirshman aerial seems to go and I am looking for the right replacement. Gents, what else is a must do? So again the advise is buy the best. Not just a good car as all the above will still be needed but buy it from someone like me or others in the Maserati fraternity as they will likely have done all the work. Other than that all fairly simple really
I pulled the binnacle today, it had stuck to the leather on each side and by the defroster vents, some gentle prying and loosening and it came right off. It lifts *up*, towards the windshield, as there are two threaded metal posts at the rear of the binnacle (front of the car, by the windshield) that point down towards the ground and are secured in the top of the dash. On mine the left one had a wide washer and nut retaining it in place. None on the right. The dash itself underneath is fiberglass, as is the binnacle, and it all looks very home made . So there are 4 screws in front along the bottom edge, and 2 threaded posts. Lift the binnacle up and slightly forward, disconnect the vacuum hose that goes to the "Consumption" meter (there is a split clamp on it) and disconnect the 4 molex wiring plugs along the bottom front of the binnacle. Then it lifts right out. I took pics of the connectors to ensure I put them back in the same position. My speedometer does indeed have a broken gear, it's discolored and missing 2 teeth. I found the teeth rattling around inside the binnacle. Where were people sourcing these? The plastic from which the binnacle is made is extremely brittle, mine was broken in several places and has a huge crack down the middle. It seems to be polystyrene, but before I use model airplane glue on it, can anyone confirm? I've cleaned all contacts on the instrument circuit board (it's a nice piece of work) and the molex connectors. Since I didn't have a suitable brush, I used a small flat bladed screw driver and contact cleaner just to scrape away the worst of the oxidation. I managed to short circuit something on one of the molex plugs, but I'm not sure what. Whatever I did, it fixed the previously non-functioning radio antenna! I figured I'd listen to the radio while I was working, and when I turned it on the aerial went up (and since I cleaned and lubed it a few weeks back, it actually extends completely and works smoothly now). I don't know how that happened. I get the impression that this car has a mind of it's own, and things will randomly work, then not, then work again, without me having touched anything. As long as it runs, I'm ok with it having a personality ;-). Cheers, Thor Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
WOW! That plastic does look brittle!!! You might check with Kerry McMullen at MIE. I do know he had a couple of 4Porte's that he was parting out. He might have the pieces you need. His number is: (253) 833-2598. Mike
Hi Charles and any other who may know, 2 questions - 1. I count 19 teeth on the outer gear teeth and 30 on the inside. You wrote that the gear is a 20/30 one. 2. The gear only seems to affect the odometer, however my speedometer is not working either. Is there connection I'm missing that will enable the speedo when I put the odometer gear in? Or is my speedo perhaps shot too? Are there any methods of testing the speedo now that I have it out of the car? Also, I see that my speedo goes to 85mph, but I've seen other US cars with 200mph ones. Was there any special distinction that differentiated the two? Cheers, Thor P.s. for those interested, to get to the gooey gear: - remove 2 small screws holding faceplate on unit - carefully pry indicator off (I used a thin bladed kitchen knife) & remove faceplate & spacer - remove 4 screws behind faceplate to separate gear display (odometer/trip meter) from electronics (speedometer unit) - remove small e-clips (2) holding gooey gear and transfer gear - push metal pin holding trip meter gear in until you can grab it with a tweezer and pull it out, freeing the gears. - remove the transfer gear and gooey gear. Assembly is reverse of disassembly. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Been working on getting the speedometer working and the brittle plastic binnacle repaired. Apparently there are quite a few different types of plastics, each requiring their own glue/weld material, and the plastic used here isn't stamped with the now ubiquitous international plastics material codes. After reading what I could and doing a few tests on scraps (float test, burn test, etc), I tried superglue (Cyanoacrylate) and can inform other's that it doesn't work on the plastic that comprises the actual faceplate surrounding the instrument dials, while PVC glue worked wonders. Next up is the white plastic binnacle that holds the actual instruments and electronics, which appears to be a completely different type of plastic. Lastly, buyer beware, I sent pictures and description of my binnacle to a known part seller, who told me it was shot, unrepairable and that I needed a new one (at a very high price). I later found said person had several other's advertised for quite a bit less, complete with cracks and broken bits exactly like mine that were described as "easily repairable and don't affect the functionality". While I understand people have to make a living, I find this kind of dealing dishonest and thought I'd let others know. Telling a customer they need to buy a new part while they sell an identical part (in identical condition) saying it's easy to fix is misleading at best, lying at worst. I'd rather deal with places that have integrity and their customers best at heart, not their profit margins. Good dealers manage to balance these aspects and thrive. Bad ones are best to avoid, imho. Note that I'm talking about steering customers right, if all you need is a part and they have it, I'm sure you'll be fine. But when I ask advice and am given a "buy this" solution that turns out not to be the best, or only solution (as it was presented), it's not cool. PM me and I'll let you know who it is, if interested. End of rant.
I'm working on restoring the rear parcel shelf, and wonder how it should be removed. The rear seat was a breeze to take out, but the leather on the parcel shelf appears to be glued to the tub behind the rear seat back. For now I've applied a good layer of Leatherique Rejuvinator with the shelf in place. Has anyone removed this? The service manual doesn't say anything about how to do it. Cheers, Thor
Hello Thor... Once again I want to thank you for all your work and the posts regarding the work.. I always look forward to reading them... This is the best info I have seen on the QPIII regarding real-world issues we owners face with the cars... KEEP UP THE EXCELLENT WORK!!! (and keep us posted!!!).... Mike
Thor I am sure this was discussed somewhere re the QPIII and a new gear could be bought from a Porsche parts list. I will try some searches but I am sure it was on this forum. W
