Question about F1 clutch life and clutch wear

Well if it can be of any help, i had to change twice the clutch on the Maser spyder (f1) within 20'000 kms (that is ~15000 mls).
Before changing it the second time, there was some lag as well swapping the gears, because the clutch was "iced".
Don't trust the SD2, it's bullsh1t, it gets easily out of range with the clutch

Anyway, my guess it the F1 works fine ONLY when the clutch is very new, or is adjusted at the dealership.
Starting from inclines etc. is anyway a pain...i didn't love F1 to sum it up

 

It'll pop out of gear when it's worn. If I were you I'd find a good independant guy that has an SD2 and will check it for you. Most times these guys will do it for free to get future business. They can make an adjustment to get more life out of the clutch. Sounds like the dealer is trying to knick you for a new clutch.

 

My clutch was totally gone and would shift into neutral half the time when trying to change gears. The SDII showed 125% as well, but the clutch was removed (showed much wear) and replaced and works perfectly now.

 

Interesting...quite the opposite experience for me. The dealer has hooked up the SD2 twice on my car in recent months at no charge...I've always been charged by the local independent for anytime spent on the SD2.

Are you recommending that he get the SD2 reading done again because the 125% reading the dealer provided is incorrect?

 

Strange.. my 355F1 is up to 21k miles on it and it still feels fine. FoW had it plugged in sometime around 19k miles and it was only worn 25%.

-R

 

I'm saying get a second opinion. A good, trustworthy, independant can tweek a clutch to perform better especially at take off.(it worked for me) Some dealers are more than willing to throw a new clutch in.(My gawd the car's got 4,500 miles on it!)

Plus, his dealer said they looked at the clutch. How could they do that unless they had it out??? All of these comments are based on 9software's info.

 

That's because the previous owner knew how to take great care of that car.

 

how do you get 125% wear?

 

There's another guy on here with a 99 355F1 GTS.. MY355 I think... who had something like 46k on the original clutch with no problems. If your 2002 360 already needs a new clutch at 4500 miles there seems to be a problem. Next time, wait until Shuey2K sells his car

-R

 

i dont hear of 355 problems with f-1. My 2001 360 spyder ----same deal, hit nuetral every time i shifted to next gear. 6k miles, bought a new clutch and clutch job was expensive as hell. new clutches will only last 500 miles if not calibrated properly with an sd-2 or sd-3 tester. assuming that even works..
man ferrari should send us all checks for this (COMMON) problem....
[email protected]

 

My clutch lasted nearly 30k miles before replacement. A properly calibrated clutch is expected to last a bit over 20k miles on a F1-equiped car.

 

How if feels may not always denote the true condition the clutch is in. It may catch when changing gears, but the real gauge of clutch wear is to visually inspect it. Rather than "feeling" what you may about the clutch, rely on the numbers in the diagnosis. The SD2 is a fairly binary test, and should be able to tell you the realities of the remaining clutch life. If you don't believe them, ask the current shop to perform the test in front of you - again, numbers on a paper do not lie.

I'd get this sorted out quickly even if there is a HINT of doubt about clutch life - you don't want to run on a clutch that is gone. That would be real $$$'s.

Good luck.

 

I would have to agree with Vik in that you can not diagose clutch wear based on mileage or a "feeling" that everything is working properly. A professional inspection and actualy visual of the clutch components is the only way to guage the actual wear. I have personally gone through this and a freidn as well in the past 3 months. Bottom line is if it is visually inspected and "ok'd" by a certified mechanic, then you are good to go. If not, replace it immediately to prevent potential further damage.

 

Sell it back to the guy you bought it from. He probably abused the thing. A clutch is an easy thing to wear in cars with such high-revving, high-output motors and it sounds like you were "surprised" by this issue. Don't take a chance on what else will be wrong with the car. This clutch is gonna be $4,000+ to repair

If the guy you got the car from did not disclose it, it could just be a simple case of not knowing what he was doing to the car and no nefarious intent on the part of the seller. BUT! It's bad form and a sure fire way to get a bad rep especially here on f-chat!

Get that guy to pay for the clutch and a real dealer PPI!

 

The SD2 value can be totally innacurate, and is easily susceptible to unscrupulous adjustments and/or neglect by a technician.

For example, I have raced the 360's very successfully for a fair while now, and don't even have an SD2 of my own yet. Clutches can be changed without any SD2 work at all. They may behave slightly differently, but the Clutch wear value is totally meaningless. On a race car the take up is not so important as a road car of course.

A small adjustment can be made in seconds with the SD2 making the wear value change dramatically.

You can inspect the clutch to some degree without removing it. There is an inspection hole underneath. You can see and measure the thickness (wear), but you cant tell the condition.

There is no mileage "normal" for clutch life. It can be killed in a matter of feet if you abuse it badly enough, or can last for huge mileage if you're careful.

 

The past few responses have said it all. But the only real test of a worn clutch is actual inspection of it.

The clutch in may car was completely worn, and I couldn't tell by driving it, but the mechanic took it out during a service and noticed that it needed replacing - I couldn't tell and neither could the car's computer - only the visual told the truth.

David

 

I have a 2003 360 Spider F1 with a little over 7000 miles. I took it into the dealer because I started to smell the clutch and I thought it was time for a new one. The dealer checked it and said I still have about 50% of the clutch left. All the clutch needed was a readjustment. I don't track the 360, but I do drive it hard since I am in my 20's. It seems real difficult to burn through it with an F1.

 

First CS did 55/60 000 kms road equivalent and when Ferrari took the car back clutch wear was at 14 %

Second CS : 6 000 kms so far wear at 2 %

Secret is to flick into neutral as often as possible,

 

My 355 had its clutch replaced at 9,668 miles then again at 14,243 miles (by the dealer I bought it from). I drove it just before it was last replaced and it felt great, and the diagnostic system was showing 85% wear. I have been told the diagnostics figure is totally unreliable though. I remember it seemed to engage more fiercely before it was changed (which I liked).

No idea why it lasted such a short time (a lot of town driving probably) but I'm not too worried - it's only £500 to change the clutch on a 355.

 

When I purchased my 360 it needed a clutch. The car had 5,300 miles on it and I was told it was driven extensively in the city and probably in auto mode. In the last 8 months I have put 3,800 miles on the car. I've taken extra care, or as much as one can, as to not abuse the clutch. When I see traffic stopped ahead, I'll shift into neutral and use the brakes rather than down shift through the gears. I keep the car in neutral at lights and when stopped for more than a few seconds. I've tried to apply all that I've learned from the various threads here on fchat to preserve clutch wear. When I'm on a spirited drive, I drive the car as it's meant to be driven. Lots of shifts at 8,500 rpm. I don't believe I've sacrificed any performance, just the great sound once in a while of those cool down shifts.

I took my car in last week for an oil change and asked them to put the car on the SD2 and let me know what my clutch wear is so far. The results...6% wear. This is the same dealer that installed the clutch 8 months ago, so I assume the SD2 set up is accurate. BTW, the dealer didn't charge me for the test. I'll update the thread each oil change.

 

My clutch will be due for replacement 1st time had the computer check it when it was at 52,ooo K and read 12% left on it.

1/2 its life was 80% highway miles ....the second 1/2 is highway and local city driving in AZ.

NOTE ............say NO TO AUTOMATIC MODE!!!!
ROLL THROTTLE TILL ENGAGED OUT OF 1ST THEN HAMMER THE THROTTLE AS YOU WISH .
9,000 RPM SHIFTS IN SPORT MODE ARE UNBELIEVABLE!!

ESPECIALLY THE SOUND IN THE FREEWAY TUNNEL W/ TUBI HEADERS,TUBI EXHAUST AND CATS BYPASSED.

HEAVENLY

 

i had my 360 clutch replaced when i bought my car from fwash.com. computer said 80percent used but when mechanic checked it was time for new unit. also, rps clutch makes stronger clutch for 360 and 355.