Question about the CO analyzing pipe on the Testarossa, TIA.

Do a search on "110860". IME, it's normal for those sampling tubes to get embrittled and break off even when everything is working as it should; however, it's important that you don't let any air enter into the exhaust stream there as this may "confuse" the O2 sensor into thinking that it needs to have the injection system add more fuel (and this could damage the 1-6 Precat). Also, you don't want any hot exhaust gas to be exiting there either.

If you mean the 7-12 slow-down light, no they are not related, but you need to look into that problem as well -- i.e., determine if the 7-12 slowdown light is coming "on" just because of a gremlin in the 7-12 warning light ECU or if it really is indicating an overtemp condition. Try swapping the two warning light ECUs and see if the problem moves to the the 1-6 light (indicating a flaky ECU) or if it stays with the 7-12 light (indicating it may be a real overtemp situation). Also, if the self-test is not working correctly everytime on the 7-12 side, this would also indicate that the 7-12 ecu is flaky.

 

I doubt that you'd have a serious problem if you drove gently (and, unless you know that it just broke, you've already been driving around with it leaking ), but it would be better if you could jam/thread a small sheet metal screw into the hole of the broken off tube at the fitting -- doesn't have to be a perfect seal, but, the more you can block it off, the better.

 

You can put a bolt on the hole where the tube fitting is to temp seal it (i forgot what the thread size and pitch was). I wouldnt worry about a short trip. I drove mine when I bought my car with the broken tube about 300 miles from the place of purchase to my shop (no issues, just a wistling noise)

 

Dear Ferraristi,

Why drive 40 miles to fix it?

If you are replacing the tubes, just order them and rebolt to the precat....a 13mm nut I believe. When you put the new tubes on, don't forget to use the "copper" antiseize.

Follow Steve M's instructions for the ECU check....bet ya it's just flaky ECU's....join the club.


Shamile

Freeze...Miami Vice !

 

If you're going to own a Ferrari for awhile....buy a craftsman racing jack and 4 heavy duty jackstands. They will pay for themselves in no time.

I thought you were replacing the analizer pipes....$85.00 each. Mine were broken so I took off the nut, silversoldered a brass cap and screwed back on.

....no issues.


Shamile

Freeze...Miami Vice !

 

I have the same problem with my 308 QV, the analyzing pipes seem to be toast but honestly I have never experienced any issue with both normal and fast driving. So I am wondering: do I really need them? What if I take them off and plug everything air tight?

 

They are only used to tune your FI system--no issues to just plug the holes

 

Then is there any other way to tune the smog emission without using those pipes?

 

They were meant for tuning and diagnosis.

It needs to be measured pre cat. When cats are installed they are really the only way. In my opinion they are worth keeping functional.

 

I see, thank you for your advise. By the way I got rid of both of my "cats" (83 QV still has them separate per each bank) I got another sending unit going into each catless pipe so maybe that could be one chance to measure the emission, even if not by a single conduct.
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FWIW, I had two that were completely severed above the mounting bolt. If I had not been removing the cats to replace my clutch I would have never known the pipes were broke. Current Ferrari prices are $340+ each. I took my pieces to a local race car fabricator and had both of them rebuilt with correct threads, correct flange etc for $150(?). Two day turn around and they look perfect.

DMP Fasteners, Performance Parts Race Supply Shop

 

I removed the 2 tubes on each side of the precats, installed these 4 plugs:

M12 x 1 25M Thread Stainless Steel "Plug" Fits O2 Oxygen Sensor Bung Nissan | eBay

 

I have searched the archives of FC 328 posts and have found very little info regarding this problem. I have a 1986 Mondial 3.2 QV and the analyzing pipes are corroded and falling apart at the exhaust manifold connection point. It appears there is a female threaded fitting with a smooth round collar welded into the exhaust manifold. There is no individual part shown for this union. Half of the connecting bolt / threaded portion is still in the manifold and the other half is hanging on the end of the analyzing pipe. I am concerned about getting the rusted threaded fitting out and not allowing bit of junk fall down into the manifold to buzz and vibrate.

As another question I would like to ask......Is this related to the slow down light? I have not seen this light come on for the year I have owned this Ferrari and then I washed my engine. Taking care to not blast water but lightly spray off the purple cleaner I sprayed on the dirty areas. Stayed away from electrical components, etc. The next morning, slow down came on for the first time, and I thought it might be related to water entering the manifold openings and creating steam in the cat. Since running it a few more times the slow down light has not come back on. Is water a potential candidate for this problem.

 

I would say yes, but not as you mean with the water entering the manifolds opening. may be water coming to some electrical connections and when the engine and the parts around egtting warm the water went away?

 

I wouldn't be to concerned about this. A small amount of debris, whether metallic or non-metallic, in the exhaust system won't hurt anything.

Probably not, but, if extra air is wrongly entering the exhaust system, the Lambda system will wrongly add extra fuel which will raise the cat outlet exhaust temp (which is what the thermocouple of the slow down system is measuring). However, it's not a big hole so I kind of doubt that. You can do a lot of deducing to determine if the slow down warning light ECU itself is just wacky (and that has happened a lot here). I.e.:

1. If the self-test does not wok correctly every time = strong sign the slow down ECU is flaky and could give a false positive, or

2. If the slow down light stays "on" immediately after cold start-up = proof the slow down ECU is wacky (as it's impossible for the thermocouple to heat up to ~900 deg C instantly due to thermal inertia).

3. If the slow down light has been on for a minute or two while running, get out and look at the cat outlet area. If it is really overheating, it will be "glowing red" and nearby components might be on fire .

4. In a working system detecting an actual overheat condition, the sequence would be that the warning light starts flashing on/off, then, after a short time of additional running, it stays on solid. If it just goes from off to on solid = strong sign the slow down ECU is flaky.

Another point is that if the thermocouple is unplugged from the slow down warning light ECU (or the wiring inside the thermocouple goes "open"), this will turn the warning light on solid = so never hurts to unplug/replug the thermocouple connector, and while you have it unplugged you can make a resistance measurement of the thermocouple terminals to confirm/deny if it is OK (should be near 0 Ohms, infinite Ohms = bad).

Good Hunting!

 

Wow, That is an awesome reply. You gave me a lot to think about. Your #1 if the self test does not work.........does that mean the engine's self test at start-up? The ECU doing a series of test readings (fluid here, fluid there, voltage correct there, etc?)

Since investigating the slow down light issue I have started to think about carrying a fire extinguisher in the trunk. I keep visualizing the torched 308 on the auto salvage website.

I have been looking for either an exhaust leak or possibly an evap leak..............when driving around town, starting and stopping at lights etc and not keeping a good constant speed........the kids in the backseat complain about headaches. I have also noticed the strong emissions smell myself and after a while I've got the headache too. This points to your "wrongly adds extra fuel" thought.........my Mondial drinks gas. Not that I am concerned about mileage but I wonder if this is happening on my end. I need to find a way to plug the connection points on the exhaust manifold. Then assess the smell issue, the gas consuption issue and the slow down light issue. If I don't opt for replacing the manifold, do you think a plug could be welded into the port? They are so jagged and rough..... LOL maybe JB weld is the solution. (putting bubble gum on the leak....I'd get some serious point reduction at the concourse, LOL)

Thank you again for your insight. Respectfully Submitted, JK

 

No, before starting. As soon as you first turn the key to "on" (Pos II), the slowdown light should come "on" and then go "off" after a second or two. If the slowdown light wrongly stays "on" with the Key in Pos II, that easily gets recognized as being not right, but if the slowdown light never comes "on" at all, that doesn't look bad, but actually is a self-test failure. Do you have the OM for your year/version Mondial? It has some really good technical information in it.

Not a fan of welding up the bungs nor JB Welding them nor sticking a drywall screw into the broken tubing hole . After digging the old bits out (which I know can be a hassle and may require removing the manifold), using the 110860 part and a copper sealing washer is the only thing that I wouldn't deduct for doing.

 

Slightly off topic but hear me out.......
We all know the Slow down units are expensive and prone to failure. Since they do the same thing, can a guy make a pigtail so that one sender will 'trigger' if either cat goes into meltdown? Im thinking more or less of preserving the life of the little $700 boxes. Run two sets of wires into one box. If it goes off, disconnect to isolate the offending cat.