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Question on 308 rear outer bushings

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Bob308GTS, Jan 8, 2004.

  1. Bob308GTS

    Bob308GTS Formula 3

    Sep 26, 2001
    1,109
    Aurora,IL
    Full Name:
    Bob Campen
    I’ve got all the A-arms cleaned and painted, all new ES inner bushings pressed in and welded. The outer rear bushings, I’m replacing all parts except the inner and outer thrush washers and the innermost chromed tube. Question on assembly of these parts, the coated inner washer, the coating in my way of thinking should face away from the pressed in part, is this correct. Also is any lube used on any piece except for on the bolt. The majority of the rubber parts were all but useless when I took them apart, a couple were so hard they fell apart when removed.

    Thanks
     
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  3. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
    Rossa Subscribed Owner

    Feb 24, 2002
    5,084
    Ventura, California
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    Robert Garven
    the coated part I am pretty sure faces the part that rotates. I forget what that is called but I seem to recall the coating retains lubricant to facilitate movement. I liberally coated all the parts with red line synthetic grease before assembly, dont forget the dowel pins, mine were missing from the first suspension rebuild by a famous mechanic...

    Oh also you need to torque the bolts with the suspension loaded. I used a piece of wood and a hydraulic jack to jack up the disc just to where it lifted off the jack stand.
     
  4. Dave

    Dave F1 Rookie

    Apr 15, 2001
    2,722
    Little Rock
    Full Name:
    David Jones
    I don't know if this will be of any help, but here you go...
     
  5. Bob308GTS

    Bob308GTS Formula 3

    Sep 26, 2001
    1,109
    Aurora,IL
    Full Name:
    Bob Campen
    Thanks guys
    It's that part #9 in question, got new ones on the shelf and the only thing that makes sense is the coated side would face #12 which touches the axle carrier. But on a Ferrari does much of anything really make sense. :)

    BTW all new parts for one bushing is over $130 at good prices not FNA ripoff pricing
     
  6. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
    Rossa Subscribed Owner

    Feb 24, 2002
    5,084
    Ventura, California
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    Robert Garven
    I think #9 goes the other way as doesn't #9 have the dowel that goes into #12 so that it does not rotate. I am taking my rear wheels off tommorrow and will look. I think the caoting is called oilite or something like that.

    Rob
     
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  8. Bob308GTS

    Bob308GTS Formula 3

    Sep 26, 2001
    1,109
    Aurora,IL
    Full Name:
    Bob Campen
    The dowel is in #4,the coated part should face #12 as it will move with the axle carrier. We'll figure this out some time
     
  9. lou staller

    lou staller Formula Junior

    Dec 21, 2002
    378
    Orange County Ca
    Full Name:
    Lou Staller
    # 9 is noted as a thrust washer in the Parts Manual. When I took mine apart I marked everything (I think!) and the coated sides were facing part # 12. # 9 is held by the dowel to # 4 so it's not going to move. The only contact # 9 has to a moving part is to # 12.

    Now I have a question! Should the pieces be lubricated prior to assembly? If so with what?
     
  10. ricrain

    ricrain Karting

    Nov 1, 2003
    195
    Dallas Area
    Full Name:
    Ric
    The teflon coated surface of shim [9] faces the large washer/spacer [12]. These two parts must be able to move in relation to one another, or you will get unintended dynamic camber changes. When installing the dowel [10], make sure they are far enough into the A-arm side bushing [4] that they can't drag on the surface of the large washer/spacer [12]. The surface condition of the chrome on the O.D. of [11] and the I.D. of the bronze bearing surface [8] must also be checked. I always add synthetic grease to the interface of [11] and [12], and the interface of [8] to [11].

    The outer bolts can be tightened with the suspension unloaded, in full droop. In fact, a good test is to remove the shock/spring assembly, disconnect the sway bar, then fully assemble the rear A-arms to the hub carrier. Fully tighten the outer bolts, but leave the inner installed but loose. Then verify that the hub can move up and down smoothly over the full length of its travel.
     
  11. Ferrari_tech

    Ferrari_tech Formula 3

    Jul 28, 2003
    1,527
    UK
    Full Name:
    Malcolm W
    Bob - you have mail

    MW
     
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  13. Bob308GTS

    Bob308GTS Formula 3

    Sep 26, 2001
    1,109
    Aurora,IL
    Full Name:
    Bob Campen
    Thank you much
     
  14. robertgarven

    robertgarven F1 Veteran
    Rossa Subscribed Owner

    Feb 24, 2002
    5,084
    Ventura, California
    Full Name:
    Robert Garven
    Of course Ric is right on all the above, but I think you need to torque the control arm nuts that attach it to the chassis in the loaded position?
     

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