430 - Question on Installers avoiding certain header brands | Page 2 | FerrariChat

430 Question on Installers avoiding certain header brands

Discussion in '360/430' started by VAF84, Aug 23, 2019.

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  1. Danedingerson

    Danedingerson Karting
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 26, 2011
    235
    Maui
    Full Name:
    Dane
    I am thinking of making some sheilds using the header as the mold. How would that be different?
     
  2. Tubi Sales

    Tubi Sales Karting

    Jul 5, 2019
    172
    PHX
    Might be easier just to invest in ceramic coating for your aftermarket headers though mainly to save you the headache and time.
     
  3. Danedingerson

    Danedingerson Karting
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 26, 2011
    235
    Maui
    Full Name:
    Dane
    I am a metal worker by trade, it seems like a simple shape to hand form. if I make them to fit Tubis for $100 each would you like to see one?
     
  4. Tubi Sales

    Tubi Sales Karting

    Jul 5, 2019
    172
    PHX
    Thank you but most of Tubi's manifold come pre-shelled from the factory so no reason to make them fit our manifolds.
     
  5. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,835
    Isle of man- uk
    Just use a long engineers steel rule and a light behind it, to check for flat ness.
     
  6. RedTaxi

    RedTaxi F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Mar 1, 2012
    3,253
    New Zealand
    Full Name:
    Glen
    Just another option: My Ferrari dealer repairs the manifolds. Big $ saving and you can stay OEM. Not that difficult to get the shells off and re-weld. I got the shell off my manifold to find the crack but then scored some good challenge headers so went that route. Once repaired just bin the lower rear brackets (the cause of the header failure) and you're good to go.
     
  7. shifter

    shifter Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Apr 8, 2004
    625
    Danville, Ca
    Full Name:
    Joe
    I'm about to install my Tubi manifolds. Looks like they won't be as easy as others due to the air rail, but I'm going to give it a go. I had 2 shops quote installation, but were about $1000 labor. I bought all new Ferrari OEM gaskets, studs (jic), nuts and clamps.

    Seems like a decent price, and both shops said they could get it done in one day. My issue is that much of the time I take my car to get worked on, I find something not right or the quality of work inconsistent with my expectations. Since this isn't complicated, just frustrating (it seems), I plan to try myself.
     
    Tubi Sales likes this.
  8. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,835
    Isle of man- uk
    What are you going to use to remove the studs from the head . Also see if u can find some ceramic lubricant for the stud threads, a lot better than copper anti seize. The book has a torque for the nuts but no chance with engine in car so its just a judgement call on tightness
     
  9. shifter

    shifter Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Apr 8, 2004
    625
    Danville, Ca
    Full Name:
    Joe
    Thanks for the tip on the ceramic lube, I’ll look. Once I have the manifolds out I’ll either double nut the studs or use my stud puller tool. Then again, if they stay put and look good, I may leave them well enough alone.










    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     
  10. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,835
    Isle of man- uk
    Reason i ask about getting the studs out is that trying double nuts is a waste of time as not enough room to get the spanners in, what is a stud puller tool ? I can let you have a drawing of a stud box if u can get one made locally, very small and easy to use in confined spaces. My ferrari garage always change the studs as known to break after time, not a good idea to leave old ones in.
     
  11. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    12,662
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    I don't know what this is.
     
  12. mike32

    mike32 F1 Veteran

    May 13, 2016
    5,835
    Isle of man- uk
    Very short length of hex bar, tapped full length with stud thread. Then short allen screw in one end. You lock this onto the stud like 2 nuts but a lot easier to use in confined space and it does not slip on the threads.
     

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