I'm going to change to Redline to try to correct the cold 2nd gear problem. 1. Can someone tell me the size of the hex socket I need to buy for the gearcase oil plugs? 2. Access to the fill plug looks tricky...any issues there? 3. When refilling, does the oil flow freely through the plug boss into the sump or will I need to dribble it in to prevent a backup spill? 4. What sizes are the copper gasket rings for the two gear case plugs and for the two clutch case plugs; can they be had generically at NAPA, etc.? 5. Should I use some PB Blaster on the sump plugs the day before? 6. Any surprises to look out for?
This is the motor oil washer--> http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7041365_0265428384 I am sure it applies to a few other washers as well. Sent from my iPhone (which probably means I'm sitting at my car confused)
Be sure you can open the "fill" plugs before you drain. If they're stuck and you drain the oil first you can be.....ahh...screwed. When I went to change recently my clutch fill plug refused to move. Did the rest - engine oil and gearbox oil (Redline) and left the clutch until I can use PBlaster or whatever in the very near future.
Geez, I checked Birdman's page and went right past that. So it's OK to fill the whole volume through the clutch fill plug? No problems with overfilling the t-case/clutch? (I realized Rob G wrote it when I saw the jack stands painted in F-colors ;>)
I fill mine through the side plug. I bought one of those gear oil hand pumps that screws to a quart oil bottle. Takes a little longer, but I have not been able to open the top transfer case plug and didn't want to force it.
what viscosity redline are you guys using to be so thick? i've been using redline mtl as suggested by rifledriver. a complete change takes me less than 20min.
I use Redline NS and it flows just fine. If it's cold outside, warm the oil in the house over night and filling the greabox will go much faster.
