Hello everyone, I am brand new on this forum and I have read several threads and am impressed regarding the collective help a person gets when posting a question. I have a question and am wondering if anyone could help: I have been a Porsche owner for about 10 years and have owned a total of three through those years. I am now ready for a Ferrari and I am still facinated by the 355. I have been looking at some and found three, but I have no Ferrari experience/knowledge to make a decision. My choices are: - 1995 355 w/13,000 miles and has had a New Clutch and tires done (priced at $70K). - 1998 355 w/31,000 miles, major 30K miles service done with replacement of headers. (priced at $72K) - 1999 355 w/36,000 miles, Major 30K service done. (priced at $72.5K) I have read in some threads about the maintenance issue with Ferraris and some were scary. Not to make Porsche any better than Ferrari by saying the following, but I really did not experience such issues with Porsche maintenance. On the other hand, I really want a Ferrari now, and I know that Porche fans will not like what I am gonna say next, and I do not mean it as an insult, but I want to move "up" now and get a Ferrari. My eyes are on those gorgious 355 Red Ferraris. Any input on what I should go for from the above?
The '98 & '99 are Priced a bit Cheap (i know they are High Mileage). The '95 is about right. I assume these are GTBs. Are they P.P. or Dealer Cars ? Take them to a Neutral 3rd Party F-Mechanic & have them perform a Pre-Purchase-Inspection($4-500).DON'T SKIMP !!! Make sure you have ALL Records,Owners Manual,Toolkit,Ferrari Cover, Red & Black Key Fobs('95 excluded). If it was me i would Stick with the Manny Tranny over the F1.Assuming all 3 Pass their P.P.I. the '98 "Sounds" like the Best Deal,especially if the Production Number(not VIN) is after #27689.The '95 would be a close 2nd. I own a 911 & a 355. The Maintenance,Parts etc will cost more than your Porsche.Be Patient & Don't Rush into your Purchase ! I know that you are Emotional & Gung-Ho about your 355.There are some "Lemons" out there. Post the Results of your PPIs here after completion (especially Compression & Leakdown). You will get some Excellent advice from Current & Former 355 Owners.Again Be PATIENT !!! Good Luck with your impending Purchase. Gotta Go, it's BBQ time
Thank you for your reply 1Turbo. The 1998 is a GTS, the other two are GTB. I do however prefer the GTB in order to eliminate any issues that a GTS results in as far as leaks or rubbing noises (how is the GTS in that way?). They are all being sold by 3 different dealerships (not Ferrari). I will stick with manny tranny as you stated, and will take them to a 3rd party neutral F- Mechanic for a PPI. What is the reason behind what you stated regarding the the '98 when you said it "Sounds" like the Best Deal,especially if the Production Number(not VIN) is after #27689? Another issue is that I have to travel to check the cars out (I'm in Indiana and they are in Pennsylvania), so I will have to do the PPI and then travel back and post the results including the Compression & Leakdown, in order to get the feedback before I have to go back to purchase it. I will definitely be patient before I purchase. Although I am getting the "I need it now!!" kind of mental state!! Thanks again.
I've had my 97 355B for two years. I've put on about 10K miles and now have about 31.5K. I believe my car is worth a premium since all services are up to date, valve guides replaced and complete service records. Don't be fooled by the ultra low milage cars. Probably had the speedo disconnected. Look for a clean, well maintained, complete records car and enjoy. My book of service is about 1" thick. If no records and low milage, something is wrong. These are great cars. I've had 4 and this 355 is the most fun for me. I also like the 355B for the lines but it is also too hot here in the summer to go top down. So, the B is the best choice. If my car was for sale, which is isn't, I would not accept anything below $75K. But I also have all the goodies including Challange grill, F50 brakes, Tubi, Hyperflow cats..... This is just for your comparison. Enjoy
The reason for the this comment is as follows: All F355s up to assembly number 27689 (mid-1998 production) were equipped with bronze valve guides. These have had a tendency towards early wear, although not all cars seem to be affected the same. Since there are 40 valve guides to the engine, a replacement is very expenseive ($15,000?). After assembly no. 27689 the factory used sintered steel guides, which wear considerably better. To be safe, you should have a PPI done with a leak-down test included. My mechanics tell me that leakdown % numbers start being a matter of concern at about 5-8% and are definitely a problem if they are above 10%.
I would be all over the '98 GTS, after a good PPI. The mileage makes me more comfortable, and with a major and headers, you should be good to go. Personally, My GTS does not leak at all (drove home in the rain yesturday) and gives you the best of both worlds: open top on nice days (like this morning) and closed when you want it. The '99 would be choice 2. The '95 is overpriced - needs a major, possibly valve guides, possibly headers... too little mileage to know.
I agree, My F355 has had the 30k major with new guides, hyperflows etc. I think these cars should be driven. I have classic motorcycles and the last thing they need is to sit around and let the fuel coagulate and tires flat spot. I believe one drives it, one fixes it. If you don't one is just postponing the inevitable and compounding issues. BTW F50 brakes?? Where does one get these???
We have the "F50" Brembo Brake Upgrade kit in stock. Call or email if you need more info. And to the OP. The 98-99 are really good deals. I would go for one of them, just make sure to get a PPI done and take it into consideration when making hte final choice. Don't get excited and get stuck with a car you don't want, some people spend years looking for the right car, but when you do buy it and it's everything you want, you will enjoy it so much more then getting stuck with a color or problem you didn't want to dela with.
There is an oft-qouted thread, labeling 8-10% as "nearly perfect". However, this thread was started by a guy trying to sell a 355 with 7-8 and 10% leakdown. I believe that 10% is way too high, and somewhere about 5% is what I want to see for my cold hard cash. HOWEVER, a leakdown test is notoriously opereator sensitive, so your results may vary. If the "mechanic' forgets to warm up the car, or prop open the throttle plates, you get inaccuracy anyway.
Without a doubt I would go for the 98 GTS. If it leaks, the open top experience while still having the clean lines similar to the GTB will easily make up for it. GTS are very rare and I would bet the depreciation wil be less on them. I have a 348 ts and you won't find yourself driving in the rain too often anyway. Sounds like you have found a pretty good deal to me, if it checks out okay on the PPi and has no crash / salvage history and looks good. Good luck and keep us posted. BT
355 Targas are NOT rare; 328 GTBs are.I don't have the exact numbers in front of me, but i remember there were 2,000+ Manual Targas. It is the Least produced of the 3 models.
I have been reading that the 95 355's have more power than the others... if I understood correctly... why is that? As well, are the 97, 98, 99 355's more advanced technologically, or are they all the same except for the headers? Thanks gentlemen for your answers.
I wouldn't advise the OP to worry about rarity/appreciation at this point. He should get what he enjoys most. Sounds like he likes the GTB. Rarity aside, more people want open-topped Ferraris than closed ones, just because of how the cars are used (good weather weekend cars). There's a "glamor" factor to open cars that attracts many more buyers than the rigidity/clean design of a berlinetta. I'd tend to agree with BT, however, just due to the complexity and issues associated with 355 Spider tops, that a targa would appeal to me more.
The 95 has dual maf/airflow meters. 96-99 have 1 maf. One of my patents concerns airflow through an maf (Mass Air Flow meter). My opinion is that the 1995 355 will have AT LEAST 10hp more than 96-99. As the car is modified and the single hfm becomes a greater restriction, I would expect the difference to be even greater. I have chosen a 1995 specifically for this reason. I plan to really mess with airflow meters on the dyno, along with exhaust, which I have also spent a lot of time with. Jay
The assembly number is stamped on a plate in the engine compartment near the shock tower on the left hand side.
The rotars are large, the setup is a kit. It was on the car when I got it. The invoice for the Brembo Front Brake upgrade is from "Auto SPA Racing". PO Box 0658, Nannet, NY 10954. Phone/Fax 914-425-7125. Cost back in 99 was $3299. Their item number was 131.8001A. The rear brake upgrade was $3399., item number 221.8001A. I have another receipt from Brembo North America. Their phone # 714-641-5831. My car also has stainless brake lines at an additional cost of $292.50, item number BL349/355. Hope this helps but remember these are 99 prices. Pretty steep but they definately stop the car! It is good to have the records! The next post has a picture of the front brakes.
I have some additional questions: Will a PPI with good results that includes a leak-down/compression eliminate most of the expensive issues when it comes to mechanical problems? (ie. headers, valves, clutch etc...??) Meaning, if it comes back with good results, is that enough to eliminate the above and is "good to go" for being purchased? I have been reading that the car should be driven to avoid coagulation, and driving it will lead to lesser mechanical issues. What kind of mileage per month are we talking about? What do you guys do in winter? Is driving it once a week in winter (when weather permits) enough? How long should the drive be in order to count? Do you keep the battery on a "trickle charger" in winter? As well, oil changes should be done every how many miles? I am also assuming that the highest octane gas should be used... do you add any "boosters" to the fuel upon fill-up, if so, what kind? Thank you for your help.
The clutch is a wear item and will have to be replaced eventually as will the water pump and belts. I have ALL fluids changed every year. Even in winter if the street is dry I will head out for at least 20-30 miles to reach at least 190 degrees, at least once a week. Snow? Back the ass out of the garage and let her idel for 10 minutes. I learned the hard way on my former 328 and cracked the fuel lines.
