Questions regarding the removal of 40DCNF carburetors??

Check with this guy: http://carburetor-manual.com/index.php

You might want to E-mail them, as I didn't see your specific model in the list, but they may still be able to help you.

As I mentioned earlier, I have a complete Weber DCOE manual in pdf form, that might serve as a guideline when used with the 40 DCNF parts list I inked you to in a previous post. I also have another Weber factory manual, but I am currently scannerless, my flatbed recently having gone toes up.

 

Chris,this is the book you want...
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Haynes-Weber-Carburettors-to-1979-Tuning-Overhaul-Specs_W0QQitemZ120335831984QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item120335831984&_trksid=p3286.m63.l1177
I have it and it is pretty useful,although slightly vague when it comes to tuning.

 

If any of the ducts are gummed up, from gasoline evaporating and leaving the varnish deposits behind, there really is no recourse but to remove and soak them. I recommend the NAPA solution I posted earlier.

This guy has some nice (general, not Ferrari or Weber specific) tips: http://www.dansmc.com/carbs.htm

 

Try this:
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Don't know how many times you've told us you're a perfectionist about your F-car.
Really can't understand you trying to find a short cut on the webers. There isn't one.
Over-haul them properly. Its not that difficult and certainly the smart thing to do.

 

Chris, I just PM'd you a lifeline...

 

These pics are courtesy of Carl Jones
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/ferraritech/

Im sure he wont mind me posting them

here are also some pics of NOS 40 DCNF's

some more links

http://emelbon.tripod.com/308_carb_rebuild/

http://www.fca-se.org/carbs/

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60757

http://www.birdmanferrari.com/index.htm
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Hi Chris,

Chis, my engine is obviously different from yours. Once I took out the first carb., I loosend everything on the other 2, but left them in place so that I could just focus on the one carb. When you take one apart and finish what you set out to do, put it back together again once you do this for a while you will become adept with the assembly. Practice taking them apart and then reassemble and do nothing else for a while. Most of these guys here are experts at this, but for the beginner it's a process of learn and relearn till you have it memorized. Dealing with multiple carbs from the getgo would have been a problem in the beginning for me. Now it's a walk in the park Chris!

I hope this helps....Merry Christmas



Ciao,
George
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Hi Chris,

I didn't have any problem with zinc or cad finishes using Berrymans-12. BUT it will definitely F**K up your paint. My garage is a small one car and i accidentally got a bit of spray on my 360 wheels and it left some indellible ugly spots. probably would do bad things to any other paint as well.

Be carefull, have good ventillation.

I particularly like the bit of advice on doing one carb at a time. The linkage pieces can be a real PITA if you have all off and you get the sequence wrong.

I talked to Mike at Pierce manifolds and he strongly recomnmended replacing the throttle shaft bearings with sealed units. I filed off the split throttle plate screws - Keep the throttle plates in their orriginal location and orrientation. Take the time to make them light tight. This involves a lot of fussing with moving the plates just a tiny bit and tightening the screws carefully. If there is too much daylight around the plates, you will have a tough time syncing the carbs.

To stake the screws, i installed a long phillips #2 bit in the vise Tightly and carefully lowered the carb down over the bit so the tip was firmly seated in the new screw head, then used a SHARP metal chisel to Stake the screw. The back up is particularly important, so you don't bend/bind the throttle shaft. A second pair of hands would help hold things steady.

hth,
chris

 

Chris,

Sealed bearings are definitely a good thing. Air may seep past the regular bearings if not properly greased. Several things to take under consideration though before disassembly IMHO. What do the throttle bearings look like once you have soaked the carb. Make sure all the screws/bolts are out, accelerator pump diaphragm and top cover off also prior to the soak. Once you see what kind of shape the bearings [the ball bearings/race] are in and the throttle shaft moves smoothly as it did on mine, then just repack it with good quality bearing grease. Push the grease into the bearing and turn the throttle shaft back and forth, and repack again till a fair amount has been accepted, then reassemble. Once this is done, air wil not get past those bearings. Shoot carb. cleaner or even lacquer thinner to really clean things out into all the passages, then blow it out with compressed air. If the bearings look shot, and the action is not smooth, then I would replace the bearings and only then. Messing with those screws, throttle shaft, and throttle plates was not worth the hassle since everything looked fine in my case.

Pay attention to the jets, since my replacements were all wrong [wrong sizes and one was incorrectly milled]. I kept and reinstalled my originals.

I kept and cleaned the fuel filters since it was all metal, not like the plastic replacements in the kits. Make sure you take out and clean the the metal mesh screen found on the bottom of the cold start unit. I left the fuel inlet to the top cover alone, no leakage there and the fuel filter cover will need to be loosened with the carb on the engine since its has a significant torque on it. Once the carb. is finished slide it over the mounting studs and torque[the fuel filter cover] it down by hand till it's tight. All other bolts can be tightened by hand, should not be a problem. Once finished, have someone start the car [fire extinguisher handy of course] and check for leaks, then tighten as needed.

Ciao,
George

 

Chris,

Sometimes, you just get lucky. Maybe you should've just serviced them in situ, and saved all the trouble of removing them for a later date?

I definately agree with George; you can do more harm than good by messing with the throttle shafts.

Chrismorse,

That's a very good tip on staking the butterfly screws, should removing them be required.

An easy way to get the plates centered in both bores, is to tap the shaft back & forth with the screws barely snug. I've had good results, wasting a minimum amount of time with that method.

 

Robert,

Those pictures from Carl Jones are pretty impressive, but I don't trust myself to not get the components mixed up between the assemblies; I like everything to go back in the same spot it originally came from (common screws being the exception, but you know what I mean).

Lots of good links; in one (1) post, you outdid all the rest of us